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Old 06-23-2021, 03:40 PM   #1
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Alberta Canada
Posts: 534
Recommended Water Filters Initial & Undersink

As we travel we source water to refill our FW tank from various places and feel it might be prudent to have an easy install filter from faucet to hose. We have only used this water for dishes, cleaning, showers and have carried other water containers for drinking, tea, cooking.

We had upon purchase in 2003 a water filter RV10 Sureflo Waterguard with a small faucet at the kitchen sink. This got turned off underneath many years ago during winterising, and never used since, but I would like to replace this filter with something of similar size to match the holder and pipe sizes. We have the original and the end bits that appear to come off to connect to the pipework (almost like the small fridge line filters). When I tried to source these on google an eBay seller wanted US$43+ just for shipping, seemed a little steep to be paying close to US$85 for it but maybe I'm out of touch, and of course want to make sure we get the right sizes and fitting to replace.

Can those of you that use a hose filtration to FW tank, and another under sink for drinking water recommend a satisfactory affordable and ideally easily sourced in Canada or otherwise filter for both uses. We don't want to install a whole new system, and we don't stay connected to hook ups, mainly boondocking so just want to avoid debris into tank and then have safe drinking/cooking water from the sink.

Thanks folks for your input and source for purchase.
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Old 06-24-2021, 08:11 PM   #2
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I have and use a whole house 10" sediment water filter with hose connections at the CG faucet. I have a countertop purified water spigot with an under-counter Everpure water filtration unit.
Matter of fact; our last trip I was attaching my whole house filter to the CG spigot and the neighbor asked if it was useful just as I turned on the water. While we were talking I pointed out the sand it had already removed from incoming water. Next day there were 3 dead bugs also in the clear housing.
2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG 11B5MX,Infantry retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA." My fellow Americans, ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy
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Old 06-25-2021, 12:41 AM   #3
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Thanks Ray, appreciate your sharing your system.
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Old 06-25-2021, 01:23 AM   #4
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Here's my standard cut-and-paste regarding water filters...
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Everyone has their own "system" of filtering water... Tap water quality will vary from park to park, and region to region. Your needs will depend on the local water quality, and each persons personal feelings on what is "good' water or how it tastes.

The blue cylindrical water filters from Camping World (and others) are expensive for what you get. I was fortunate that I could pick up a pair of 10 inch canister filters from a industrial system that was decommissioned / dismantled in the 1990s.
See https: //
Mine have clear housings and no red pushbutton pressure relief valve... They were in use in the plant for at least 5 years, then lived on my old s&b house for over 20 years, now on the RV. Should you chose to buy those you will want to get the special wrench (under $6) to open the canister and a spare O-ring or two - it will crack, stretch or break with zero notice and you will not be able to get a seal until you replace it.

Note that These industrial filter housings have common pipe threads on the input and output ports... They come in 1/4 inch, 3/8, 1/2 and 3/4 inch threads and the smaller you go the less flow you get. Some models have the threads cut into the plastic body, some have brass threaded inserts. Mine have 3/4 inch bodies and came with 1/2 inch brass fittings screwed into the bodies. When you install them you want the input water to feed the port that feeds teh canister (i.e. outside-the-cartridge) so that you can see the sediment buildup on the cartridge (through the clear jug).

I specifically selected the housings without the red button pressure relief valves as I've had those pushbutton valves leak... they started to drip after a few years of monthly filter changes at a prior industrial job. I just close the upstream valve to shut off the water, then open a downstream valve to release the pressure. Im my case the first housing has a 5 micron sediment filter, the second has a carbon block. I go through 3 or 4 sediment filters for every carbon block filter.... your mileage may vary with the local water.

Another point... pressure regulators:

RV campground water pressure can be all over the place... I suggest that you acquire a good pressure regulator. I have read comment threads here that mention extremely high water pressure - and some have had their RV systems get overpressured and damaged (burst pipes, floods, etc). There are two types, one is just a flow restriction, the other is a true pressure regulator. Both types are available in brass or plastic, I prefer brass. Both are made with pipe threads (mounts inside the RV, requires a high pressure fresh water hose) or hose threads (can be screwed to the hose bib and can be left behind or stolen, the hose goes after the regulator and can therefore be a lower pressure rated hose)

This is a true regulator and has hose threads:

The flow of my system is this: the campground hose bib feeds my input hose, which connects to the MH. There it feeds a brass pressure regulator (with the built-in pressure gauge) then a ball valve shutoff then the two filter housings then a convenience hose bib and a short hose to the original coach plumbing.

If I were to ever replumb my MH I would mount the dual filter canisters inside a new door in the side the RV (the back side of kitchen sink cabinet is presently wasted space), and have the center tap between the two filters feed the toilet supply line, the shower, and the washer/dryer (if I had one). After all, carbon block filters are expensive, why waste one on the non-drinking water?
= = =
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sink, water

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