Refrigerator Level, Dumb Question

[Unplanned Tourist]

We have 4 doors that swing on hinges. As long as they stay where I stop them, I'm happy and I think my fridge is too. That's how I like to be when I'm parked.

OCD? Maybe, but I'll live with it.

[NXR]

Originally Posted by IAlreadyGot1

It has been explained in this thread how far out of level an RV would need to be in order for a condition to exist where the potential for damage may occur.

Also, bear in mind that a successful business model involves, among other things, selling a product for a profit and marketing.

That's a bit harsh. The ARP Fridge Defend helps protect against overheating of the boiler and a resultant fire regardless of the reason for the overheating.

Many failures seem to be due to degradation of the anti-corrosives and the thinner metal used in the tubes of older fridges. That can happen even if the fridge never was run off-level.

Plus, some models of the ARP Fridge Defend supply additional blowers, internal and/or external, to help improve operation.

We have a 2020 Norcold 1210 in a slide and I still installed the ARP Fridge Defend with the internal and external fans. The fridge's operation is better now and even with a 2020 model I was still happy to spend the money.

Because the improved operation is something we use 24x7 while a fire is barely a maybe for us due to the newness of the fridge and because we are very much aware of the hazards of off-level operation and avoid it.

But bad stuff can still happen. I consider the ARP Fridge Defend to be a risk reduction control, not a risk elimination control. My wife and I are both retired firefighter/paramedics so we tend to pay a bit more attention to reducing the risks of a fire.

Ray

[IAlreadyGot1]

Originally Posted by NXR

That's a bit harsh. The ARP Fridge Defend helps protect against overheating of the boiler and a resultant fire regardless of the reason for the overheating.

Many failures seem to be due to degradation of the anti-corrosives and the thinner metal used in the tubes of older fridges. That can happen even if the fridge never was run off-level.

Plus, some models of the ARP Fridge Defend supply additional blowers, internal and/or external, to help improve operation.

We have a 2020 Norcold 1210 in a slide and I still installed the ARP Fridge Defend with the internal and external fans. The fridge's operation is better now and even with a 2020 model I was still happy to spend the money.

Because the improved operation is something we use 24x7 while a fire is barely a maybe for us due to the newness of the fridge and because we are very much aware of the hazards of off-level operation and avoid it.

But bad stuff can still happen. I consider the ARP Fridge Defend to be a risk reduction control, not a risk elimination control. My wife and I are both retired firefighter/paramedics so we tend to pay a bit more attention to reducing the risks of a fire.

Ray

Not sure what you’ve interpreted as harsh. Just stated what I believe are a couple of obvious facts regarding a level RV and successful business models. I also don’t wish to derail this thread by going outside of a discussion of what constitutes operating a refrigerator within the guidelines provided by a manufacturer, as pertains to being level.

In no way am I suggesting that anyone not examine and implement risk reduction measures where the deem them to be necessary.

[Souljourner]

This was one of the smartest threads I’ve read, which is pretty funny considering it began as a dumb question!

Thank you to all who responded, particularly to US1 for the trig lesson. I might not remember the formula, but what I will remember is that I no longer need to agonize over that 1/4 inch off level!

Thank you to all who posted, and thank you to the OP for asking the original “dumb” question that turned out to be not so dumb. This thread has probably impacted my camping experience more than any other thread because leveling is such a constant part of the RV experience. I now have a deeper understanding of the parameters and the reasons behind them, and that has just lifted one more concern off my shoulders.

Many thanks!

[YC1]

Now I think I am a half of a bubble off.

Has anyone placed a digital level next to a bubble level and translated a half bubble off for example?

I had one many years ago for adjusting a propeller on an airplane.

[IAlreadyGot1]

Originally Posted by YC1

Now I think I am a half of a bubble off.

Has anyone placed a digital level next to a bubble level and translated a half bubble off for example?

I had one many years ago for adjusting a propeller on an airplane.

Some vials have pitch lines. Typically they will read: 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 & 1/2, which indicates the rise in inches over a run of one foot. A conversion chart/calculator or some math will allow that measurement to be expressed as a grade/percent or angle/degrees.

To answer your question, the 1/4 mark will be equivalent to a half bubble off. That works out to 1.19*. A full bubble off equals 1/2” per foot which converts to 2.39*. All figures assume an accurate bubble level.

[Solo_RV_Guy]

Originally Posted by SJ-Chris

So which way is the 3% and which is the 6% tolerance/suggestion? I would like to know if it is more important for me to level my RV front to back or right to left. Doesn't really apply for when I'm camping (I'll make the RV pretty much level). But it does come into play when parked at my home on a residential street that slopes from the center of the street towards the curb.


Thanks!
Chris

The tolerances are for the refrigerator unit itself, not necessarily the RV (depends on how the unit was installed).

Left/right is the refrigerator's left & right as you face the reefer's door. Front/back is from the door to the back wall of the unit.