Replace 12v wall switch with 110 switch?

[BearLeThere]

The cheap light switches in 5th wheels and motor homes drive me nut's... I have regular 110 house switches left over from construction. I want to replace the cheap 12v s with the 110v wall switch I have so my poor wife can stop breaking her fingers and nails. Has anyone done this? Is there any problems with this?? Anyone have any ideas? I know it may be more expensive but I already have them anyway and I think the trailer manufacturers have designed the factory ones to fail after a while. Also, I am switching over to led lights at this time if it makes a deference...

Appreciate some ideas, advice or input on this

[BFlinn181]

In some places I don't think you have the room to put in a deeper, larger switch. I've not had any issues with these switches, and they are cheap to replace.

[bruceisla]

Same here ..... assuming you aren't switching high amperage (above rating). It's mostly a size issue.

[tncruiser]

if the 110 switch will fit it WILL work
brianj

[336muffin]

I thought the 110v was rated for 1.5 amps, 12 v is higher amps.....right.

[bcbrowne]

Originally Posted by 336muffin

I thought the 110v was rated for 1.5 amps, 12 v is higher amps.....right.

most 110 volt switches/recepticals are rated at 15 amp and some at 20 amps. 20 amp are mainly used in commmercial applications.

[BFlinn181]

A 120 v 15 amp switch is MORE than adequate to handle 12 v lights, especially if the OP uses LED which require way less power than incandescent bulbs. I just don't see how it's worth the time and money to cut larger holes, and install the switches and cover plates. If you also install boxes, it just adds more work. I like the 12 switches because they go on and off with a slight bit of pressure to the top or bottom and they aren't too noticeable.

[Tony Lee]

Some of the advice being given ignores the fact that the construction of switches intended for 12V service may be different to those intended for 120v usage and a reasonable rule of thumb might be to divide the AC rating of the 120V switch by 5 and use that as the maximum current rating for 12V DC use. If it is for 24V DC use a factor of 10.

Reason is that AC effectively extinguishes any arcing when the current goes through zero while the DC arc can stretch out much further before it can't be sustained so it is quite feasible that a DC arc would not ever go out once established across the very small open gap of a typical AC switch.

[TQ60]

The light switch is a simple switch as is the factory one.

The factory ones can be upgraded to better quality by simply taking one to a well versed electronics supply, read " not radio shack".

Most cities have something, they would have stock items and catalogs.

We get exact replacements of good quality for about $1.50.

If you want to use the 120 volt version it will work fine.

There are surface mount decorator units designed for remodeling on stone walls that are low profile and surface mounting allows for zero modification to wall, so you can return to factory later.

Just stick to switches, not dimmers, it must be a mechanical switch to work, electronic ones need the 120 VAC to work.

[Tony Lee]

Another way of answering the question scientifically is to check the switch ratings published by the manufacturer. If it has a DC rating and the figures match the application then you have a good answer. If there are no DC ratings and only AC ratings, then you also have the answer.

[BearLeThere]

Originally Posted by TQ60

The light switch is a simple switch as is the factory one.

The factory ones can be upgraded to better quality by simply taking one to a well versed electronics supply, read " not radio shack".

Most cities have something, they would have stock items and catalogs.

We get exact replacements of good quality for about $1.50.

If you want to use the 120 volt version it will work fine.

There are surface mount decorator units designed for remodeling on stone walls that are low profile and surface mounting allows for zero modification to wall, so you can return to factory later.

Just stick to switches, not dimmers, it must be a mechanical switch to work, electronic ones need the 120 VAC to work.

The problems we are having with these are they get stuck sometimes and will not turn on or off unless you use force with some object, least you break your finger! I finally broke one. The switches I have are already paid for and I have both shallow and deep gang boxes (may need to buy a few more shallow). However, if in fact they make better quality for only 1.50 I would sure like to know where I can buy them. Maybe I'll give it a try...

[BFlinn181]

I did a bit more research and found out some things: Since AC current swings to zero 120 times a second, it helps stop the arc as the contacts separate. The increase in voltage is less affected by corrosion or dirt on contact surfaces. A DC switch usually has larger contacts that 'wipe' the surface of the contact to keep cleaner and a larger gap to stop the arc. A DC switch has to be built to handle the extra stress of the continuos current. If an AC switch is to be used in DC service, it is wise to add a capacitor to reduce arc. I would NOT recommend AC switches in DC use for reliability and long life. Google 'light switch AC or DC' and read some articles yourself.

[BearLeThere]

Bob & Donna and the rest, thank you all for the input (Love this forum). I am now convinced that I need to look for some replacement DC switches instead of the AC I was considering. Can anyone tell me where to find some of these at a reasonable price??

Many Thanks!!

[TQ60]

Digi-key on line is one place, depending on where you are, look for well stocked electronics supply, one that supports local servicers or hobbists