Residential Refrigerator ?

[twinboat]

Originally Posted by Biljol

Twinboat

That works out about exactly what my last oops test showed. I have 400ah of lithium and got back from a short trip. I forgot to plug in the coach when I got home.

2 days later and my battery’s showed 50% now we did have some other small draws at the same time so that 100ah a day would be on the nose. Also our fridge was empty and we all know empty uses more power than full.

I do have plans to add another 400 ah soon so that would be 8 days with no genset use. Of course that would be with no other power draw.

I wonder how much power a nocold draws once you do everything to make it cold with the fans.

I would say the fridge pulls about 80ah a day less if loaded the other 20 is small loads and the inverter overhead.

Like I said the power for the TV, heat/ac, coffee pot ect probably pull more in the day than the fridge.

One day of Tv, instapot, coffee, diesel heater and pc running takes my 400ah to 30% so run the genny 2-3 hrs a day to charge.

Gas / Electric refrigerators draw 350 to 500 watts on AC.

That's 30 to 50 amps on the DC side, much higher then resedental fridges.

[twinboat]

Originally Posted by TriMoot

Here’s our recent experience.

Our 23 yo Dometic 10.1 cubic feet propane/electric fridge died due to being VERY un-level, totally my fault.

Replaced with a residential 10.1 fridge and had room left over to add a slide out pantry...win!

Did our snow bird trip to Florida with single overnight boondocking stays at Walmart. No issues and never had to use generator.

Just recently boondocked for four nights and had to run generator after the 2nd day in the morning and just before bed.

If I had to do it over I’d replace with a propane/electric fridge.

Yes, I’d miss my rock hard ice cream, but it’d be worth not having to run the generator so much.

PS: Yes, we have a dedicated inverter.
PPS: hmm, just read the post about cutting the defrost wires.... I like it! Now to figure out how?

Don't you need to run your generator anyway ?
That's what its for.

Don't cut the wires, you may regret it.

In a RV fridge frost builds up on the fins in the box.

In a resedental fridge, the fins are hidden from view. The frost still builds up and blocks the air flow.

[twinboat]

Originally Posted by AnotherMike

I'd cut only one wire, and put a switch in line.... Just in case.

And I'd add a dedicated inverter in the 200w-400w range.

This allows the large inverter - the one that can run your microwave or other high current load - to be switched off when not needed.

Mike

A 200 to 400 watt inverter isn't enough to get past the startup loads of a residental fridge.

Minimum would be 600 watts but a 1000 watt inverter would give you some cushion. That's what most people use when converting.

[txcpl]

There may be a big cost difference between replacing the cooling unit compared to replacing with a residential type unit. Costs would include but not be limited to fridge, wiring, inverter, ???

[clifford j]

Dose a 12 volt / 120 volt frig have a built in inverter ? if so what is the difference in watts draw between that design frig and a 120 volt only type?

CLIFFORD

[Brockx]

I installed a Whirlpool that fit perfectly in the spot the "nevercold" occupied. I also added an inverter and an automatic switch when it senses 120V it switches to generator or 120V exterior source. The Whirlpool is also a icemaking son-of-gun. Never a problem.

[jrollf]

Originally Posted by clifford j

Dose a 12 volt / 120 volt frig have a built in inverter ? if so what is the difference in watts draw between that design frig and a 120 volt only type?



CLIFFORD

I think the reference was to a propane/12v/120v fridges. They don't have comoressors, they use an electric heating element to heat up the 'burner' instead of propane.

You can find 12v/120v fridges that use efficient compressors that draw a lot less power. A dual power 12v/120v fridge will use a converter, not an inverter. The fridge works on DC power, when conmected to 120v AC, the converter turns it into 12v.

[RescueRamsey]

Originally Posted by Brockx

I installed a Whirlpool that fit perfectly in the spot the "nevercold" occupied. I also added an inverter and an automatic switch when it senses 120V it switches to generator or 120V exterior source. The Whirlpool is also a icemaking son-of-gun. Never a problem.

What model did you find that fit perfectly? I'm in the process of finding one to replace mine.
Hopefully soon, mine is dying out....

[TriMoot]

Originally Posted by twinboat

Don't you need to run your generator anyway ?
That's what its for.

Don't cut the wires, you may regret it.

In a RV fridge frost builds up on the fins in the box.

In a resedental fridge, the fins are hidden from view. The frost still builds up and blocks the air flow.

Before adding the residential fridge and 600w inverter we didn’t have to for quite a while. All lights have been converted to LED’s and typically we don’t watch TV, just stuff on phone and iPad’s so we could go a couple days or so before needing to start the genny.

Yes, I’ll not do any cutting of wires, I said that before I read all the comments.

Besides, I’m trying REALLY HARD to find our next rig so I can put up with having to start the generator when boondocking.

But, I will say this has changed my mind a bit in regards to wanting a residential fridge in our future new used rig. If the next one had the old style I think I’ll be okay with it.

[Brockx]

The Whirlpool unit I bought was a 10.7 cubic foot, top freezer, and also added the Ice Maker. Never had a problem with it, also have one size bigger on my pool lanai. I added an automatic power switch that uses the power available. This device will switch when shore power is terminated and will switch to my inverter or generator which ever is active at the moment.
The refer comes in all the normal colors and finishes. I have seen these unit available in other new MH's and trailers at dealers.