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Old 10-12-2013, 06:38 AM   #155
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Originally Posted by zzjea View Post
I made a simple and effective solution to securing the Samsung 197 doors while in motion. I used a single bungie looping thru the top 2 handles and then down to the bottom handle. It is quick and it works. Since the top 2 doors open from the hinges on the sides, the bottom door can't open and they all put a stress on each other that makes it work. They will move a little when pulled on but will snap back into place. Surprised me. See pic below.

Simple and effective is good !!
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Old 10-12-2013, 11:53 AM   #156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zzjea View Post
I made a simple and effective solution to securing the Samsung 197 doors while in motion. I used a single bungie looping thru the top 2 handles and then down to the bottom handle. It is quick and it works. Since the top 2 doors open from the hinges on the sides, the bottom door can't open and they all put a stress on each other that makes it work. They will move a little when pulled on but will snap back into place. Surprised me. See pic below.
The only problem I see with your approach is the bungee is pulling up on the freezer drawer handle. When you pull up on the handle, you push out 2 little tabs along the upper edge of the freezer drawer. When the tabs extend, they push the drawer open to help overcome the magnetic seals around the face of the drawer. Unless you have come up with a way to prevent the bungee from pulling up on the handle and extending the tabs, you are actually holding the freezer open.

We use child proof latches along both edges of our freezer. The latches can be locked in the open position so they don't effect the opening of the freezer when we're parked.

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Old 10-12-2013, 12:21 PM   #157
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After trying several other freezer latch ideas that didn't work, I got this one from someone on this forum a couple of years ago. It is simple and inexpensive and works! The L-brackets are completely hidden by the refrigerator doors when they are closed so the whole thing is invisible from outside. You can't snag yourself on the brackets when you reach into the freezer because they are covered by the doors. I used two pins because I wasn't sure about how much stress would be put on the drawer frame, but I think one is all that is needed.
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Old 10-12-2013, 12:26 PM   #158
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After trying several other freezer latch ideas that didn't work, I got this one from someone on this forum a couple of years ago. It is simple and inexpensive and works! The L-brackets are completely hidden by the refrigerator doors when they are closed so the whole thing is invisible from outside. You can't snag yourself on the brackets when you reach into the freezer because they are covered by the doors. I used two pins because I wasn't sure about how much stress would be put on the drawer frame, but I think one is all that is needed.
Picture?
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Old 10-12-2013, 12:28 PM   #159
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Picture?
Should be there now
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Old 10-12-2013, 02:20 PM   #160
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Hi Joel,

I think that was me BUT it wasn't my idea. The installer that I had do my Samsung install chose that method for the freezer drawer and I love it. Very easy to lock and unlock.

What I didn't like was his idea for the French doors. He installed Southco latches on each door. Then after using them for a couple of days I got real tired of having to pull extra hard to open the doors and then you had to push hard to close each one.

I removed the Southco latches and now use a 14 inch Velcro strap for the doors. Now when using the Samsung French doors they close normally with the magnetic seals. The left-hand with the flapper needs a little extra push but not even close to what was needed with the Southco latches.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 10-12-2013, 02:35 PM   #161
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The only problem I see with your approach is the bungee is pulling up on the freezer drawer handle. When you pull up on the handle, you push out 2 little tabs along the upper edge of the freezer drawer. When the tabs extend, they push the drawer open to help overcome the magnetic seals around the face of the drawer. Unless you have come up with a way to prevent the bungee from pulling up on the handle and extending the tabs, you are actually holding the freezer open.
I thought about that when trying the bungee. The angles and the resistance of the bungee actually keep the freezer door closed even with the freezer door handle being pulled up. The bungee thru the upper door handles overcomes the push tabs and it all stays in place. Worse case would be to add a velcro strip to one side of the freezer door that would be engaged when moving and attached to the fridge side wall. Don't see the need for that though. I must have exactly the right bungee for the job as there is no excess to get in the way.

I have tested this by pulling on the doors. I have not had it on the road yet. My pulling seems to be more energy than just the movement of the coach would produce. But I will test it when the remodel is complete and we go camping.

I would have tried some of the other suggestions but this one I figured out almost by accident and it works as far as I can tell.

John
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Old 10-12-2013, 02:40 PM   #162
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Originally Posted by paz View Post
The only problem I see with your approach is the bungee is pulling up on the freezer drawer handle. When you pull up on the handle, you push out 2 little tabs along the upper edge of the freezer drawer. When the tabs extend, they push the drawer open to help overcome the magnetic seals around the face of the drawer. Unless you have come up with a way to prevent the bungee from pulling up on the handle and extending the tabs, you are actually holding the freezer open.

We use child proof latches along both edges of our freezer. The latches can be locked in the open position so they don't effect the opening of the freezer when we're parked.
I like the way that latch looks. Where did you get those? (Or brand/part number).

How do they attach to the door edge?
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Old 10-12-2013, 03:06 PM   #163
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I like the way that latch looks. Where did you get those? (Or brand/part number).

How do they attach to the door edge?
I got them at Walmart, but HERE they are on Amazon.

They are attached by double-faced adhesive.
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Old 10-12-2013, 03:22 PM   #164
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Hi Joel,

I think that was me BUT it wasn't my idea. The installer that I had do my Samsung install chose that method for the freezer drawer and I love it. Very easy to lock and unlock.

What I didn't like was his idea for the French doors. He installed Southco latches on each door. Then after using them for a couple of days I got real tired of having to pull extra hard to open the doors and then you had to push hard to close each one.

I removed the Southco latches and now use a 14 inch Velcro strap for the doors. Now when using the Samsung French doors they close normally with the magnetic seals. The left-hand with the flapper needs a little extra push but not even close to what was needed with the Southco latches.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
Richard:

My installer had used a Southco latch on our freezer and that was a disaster because the drawer slide has too much side to side motion for it to line up properly unless we were very careful when closing it. Often we would end up with it slightly open because the latch hadn't caught.

As for the French doors, I put a square of this stuff Amazon.com: Scotch(R) All-Weather Fasteners, 2 Sets of 1 Inch x 3 Inches, Strips, Clear (RFD7090): Office Products on each door at top and bottom. When we travel I use another piece as a "bridge" across the doors.

If you haven't used 3M/Scotch Dual Lock before (which the the overall name for the product line), you'll find it to be amazing stuff. Sort of "Velcro on steroids."

Joel
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Old 10-12-2013, 07:37 PM   #165
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I thought about that when trying the bungee. The angles and the resistance of the bungee actually keep the freezer door closed even with the freezer door handle being pulled up. The bungee thru the upper door handles overcomes the push tabs and it all stays in place. Worse case would be to add a velcro strip to one side of the freezer door that would be engaged when moving and attached to the fridge side wall. Don't see the need for that though. I must have exactly the right bungee for the job as there is no excess to get in the way.

I have tested this by pulling on the doors. I have not had it on the road yet. My pulling seems to be more energy than just the movement of the coach would produce. But I will test it when the remodel is complete and we go camping.

I would have tried some of the other suggestions but this one I figured out almost by accident and it works as far as I can tell.

John

I was over again this afternoon working and tried the freezer with the bungee setup. It will open slightly and may be just enough to break the seal. So I fooled around with another bungee and did get a solution. A single bungee from the bottom of the fridge base to the freezer handle. This pulls down on the handle and with the pressure against the bottom of the door, it won't budge. The other bungee just wraps around the fridge handles and they won't open either. Not real elegant but I solved it with what I had. I may get the plastic latches at some point but for now this will work while travelling.

Funny thing is I used to use 2 bungees to keep the old Dometic doors open when in storage and powered off.

Man I'm glad I made this switch to a residential. I leave the MH power controls on invert and if there is shore power it automatically transfers. I have the MH plugged in to power at the storage lot so it is always running. If the power goes out for a while, the inverter keeps it all going. It has been running at a steady -2 freezer and +38 fridge since Tue. when it was installed. Ice is almost to full capacity in the bin. Not bragging, just happy to have a safe and huge fridge.

John
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Old 10-12-2013, 08:01 PM   #166
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Our res ref has two eye hooks on either side of the ref doors and the freezer drawer and a bungee running across the front of both. When not in use I stretch the bungee from the ref eye hook to the freezer eye hook on the same side. It works real well. You did a great job on this mod! Thanks for sharing!
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Old 10-12-2013, 08:52 PM   #167
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Our res ref has two eye hooks on either side of the ref doors and the freezer drawer and a bungee running across the front of both. When not in use I stretch the bungee from the ref eye hook to the freezer eye hook on the same side. It works real well. You did a great job on this mod! Thanks for sharing!
Dan,

Thanks for the feedback. Maybe it will encourage others to tackle (or have someone else) the switch to a res. fridge. I know there are thousands of RV type fridges running just fine but when mine failed, there was no question as to what I needed to do. It was also cheaper than trying to fix the old 12 year old Dometic. Did my research and got with it. Thanks to the help I got along the way mostly from folks on this forum.

John
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Old 10-13-2013, 07:27 PM   #168
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Securing top of fridge

I mounted 2 L brackets at the top of the fridge and screwed them into the ceiling. The one on the right I also put a screw into the "table" cover on the top. That keeps it moving laterally while the ceiling stops any forward movement. It is really solid now. The brackets don't interfere with the door or the seals.

John
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