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Old 09-28-2013, 10:01 AM   #29
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I replaced my NDR1292 with a Whirlpool -- residential fridge install.

The NDR1292 is smaller than a Norcold 1200 so I don't think you'll be able to get one of those Samsung 167s in that space.

Essentially I replaced a 12 cf with another 12 cf fridge.

The Whirlpool is a two-door so the freezer and fridge doors swing out further than your two-door NDR1292 or a Samsung. However, I was able to use Whirlpool's dimensional drawings to figure out door swing and other install dimensions.

Also remember that the fridge door will typically "hang over" the fridge cabinet so that buys you a few inches of depth.

If you're doing a self install, you may want to remove your NDR1292 before picking a replacement. Also, my Whirlpool was brought in through a side window.

Finally, since my Whirlpool was several inches less wide than my old NDR1292, I was able to get a pantry installed next to the fridge.
Now that is exactly what I am up against. I have saved this for further review.
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Old 09-28-2013, 10:18 AM   #30
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I bolted mine through the front feet of the Samsung, and plumbers strap in the rear.
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Old 09-28-2013, 12:13 PM   #31
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I looked at the "counter depth" units on the net and they were extremely expensive. Is this a new rage for in-home use or why are they so high ($2K-3K +)?
I replaced the cooling unit on our Norcold 1200 in 2010. It has not been very cold the last few weeks and this past week it did not cool at all plus the dreaded ammonia smell started. So I am done with the RV type fridge!

I ordered a RF197ACBP (BP=Black) through Home Depot yesterday. The cost on the web was $1399.00 + tax. I called the local Home Depot and placed the order with the appliance department. The sales person gave me a discount called "buy more save more" (http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/inex...de-139025.html) and I asked for a military discount, which is 10%. She said they could not give two discounts so I asked to speak to the store manager. The store manager said she could not give me the additional 10% military discount but she would knock off an additional $100.00. Total out the door price was $1252.xx and it will arrive on Tuesday, October 1st. So I begin the removal of the Norcold 1200 today.
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Old 09-28-2013, 12:20 PM   #32
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I ordered a RF197ACBP (BP=Black) through Home Depot yesterday. Total out the door price was $1252.xx and it will arrive on Tuesday, October 1st. So I begin the removal of the Norcold 1200 today.
Welcome!

You are now an official member of the ever growing Samsung RFXXX Refrigerator RV Club!

You WON"T be disappointed and will kick yourself for NOT doing it earlier.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 09-28-2013, 12:32 PM   #33
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I ordered a RF197ACBP (BP=Black) through Home Depot yesterday. The cost on the web was $1399.00 + tax. I called the local Home Depot and placed the order with the appliance department. The sales person gave me a discount called "buy more save more" (http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/inex...de-139025.html) and I asked for a military discount, which is 10%. She said they could not give two discounts so I asked to speak to the store manager. The store manager said she could not give me the additional 10% military discount but she would knock off an additional $100.00. Total out the door price was $1252.xx and it will arrive on Tuesday, October 1st. So I begin the removal of the Norcold 1200 today.
I can tell you why you could not get the other discount. It has to do with the fact that they had to "Special Order" the item. If they have to special order anything then they are not supposed to give the discount.
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Old 09-28-2013, 03:21 PM   #34
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The doors on the Samsung are French doors so that should not give you any problems. The freezer drawer rolls out about 16 inches giving you plenty of room to remove it if needed.

The only issue I see is sliding the fridge into the opening. It is a lot easier to install the doors first then slide it in but the Samsung is 28 1/2 inches with the doors without the handles. If you have only 26 inches it won't work. You may have to slide the fridge in part way and then tip it down in the front to install the doors and then slide it the rest of the way into the opening.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
Richard,

I went over and re-measured everything today. The hall is only 25.5 inches wide at one point. I can barely get 70" height.

I had made my decision to get the Samsung but now I don't think it will fit during the install. Also, with the unit depth of 28+", how much space does the open door require to go 90 degrees?

I may have to go to plan B etc. I was planning on getting the Samsung and even have a inverter outlet nearby I could use. Any ideas???

John
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Old 09-28-2013, 03:47 PM   #35
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Hey John, we just replaced our NDR 1292 with a Whirlpool residential. We have a 2000 Watt inverter as I believe you might. So I dropped a line from the inverter to the Fridge area, now the Fridge runs off batteries, (inverter) when not on Shore Power or generator.
We usually travel with the generator running for the AC anyway, and never dry camp although the 4 coach deep cycle should power it for at least 12 hours, in case of a Wal-Mart overnight.
My doors also open into a hall, but the whirlpool was no problem, will see if I can post a pic or two. had to close in the space a little to accommodate the smaller size, it is 11 CuFt, 24 inches with the doors off. Removed the passenger seat and it came through the door with no sweat.
Took the old NDR 1292 apart in the coach, removed the leaking cooling unit a lot of the weight, removed the doors and took it out by myself. Lowes delivered the whirlpool and put it in the Coach for me. Built a furniture dolly to set the fridge on so I could move it in and out for trial fittings.


This is the finished Fridge in place.


Fridge with face frame it is bolted with two large bolts in the rear, and two brackets at the top attached to a 2 x 4 that is secured to both sides. The face frame just allows me the room to insert the screws in the brackets at the top of the fridge. Couldn't move it down as the electrical cables and fuse box is located below the fridge, so the 197 was not an option.


Built this dolly to move the fridge in and out for trial fits by myself.


Bolted on each side at the rear.



What you see is the plywood that closes the opening to the back of the fridge, the small opening is there to allow access to the bolts just in case the fridge needs to be moved.
The fiberglass in the center is replaced and the cover is then placed over that and everything looks as it was. I used alum tape to close off the vents in the cover and then DUCT tape on top of that. Also removed the gas line, and capped it off at the manifold under the coach, its 3/8ths fitting just in case you want to know.
It works perfectly and we have solid ICE CREAM YEAAAA.
Jim
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Old 09-28-2013, 03:52 PM   #36
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BTW, I said we got the Whirlpool at Lowes, I was wrong, got it at Sears, only paid 382.00 plus tax and delivery charges. Lot different than 900 plus for a new cooling unit(what a joke of a name).
Jim


Replaced the insulation


Face frame complete, and the plywood across the back will be closed from the rear. Also if you look close you can see the 2 x 4 that just clears the top of the fridge and two angle brackets that will have a screw on each side to help stabilize it. After the installation was complete the fridge is solid and does not move at all.


Still looks the same outside, no more leaking through the sidewall!
Jim
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Old 09-28-2013, 05:48 PM   #37
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Hey John, we just replaced our NDR 1292 with a Whirlpool residential. We have a 2000 Watt inverter as I believe you might. So I dropped a line from the inverter to the Fridge area, now the Fridge runs off batteries, (inverter) when not on Shore Power or generator.
We usually travel with the generator running for the AC anyway, and never dry camp although the 4 coach deep cycle should power it for at least 12 hours, in case of a Wal-Mart overnight.
My doors also open into a hall, but the whirlpool was no problem, will see if I can post a pic or two. had to close in the space a little to accommodate the smaller size, it is 11 CuFt, 24 inches with the doors off. Removed the passenger seat and it came through the door with no sweat.
Took the old NDR 1292 apart in the coach, removed the leaking cooling unit a lot of the weight, removed the doors and took it out by myself. Lowes delivered the whirlpool and put it in the Coach for me. Built a furniture dolly to set the fridge on so I could move it in and out for trial fittings.


This is the finished Fridge in place.


Fridge with face frame it is bolted with two large bolts in the rear, and two brackets at the top attached to a 2 x 4 that is secured to both sides. The face frame just allows me the room to insert the screws in the brackets at the top of the fridge. Couldn't move it down as the electrical cables and fuse box is located below the fridge, so the 197 was not an option.


Built this dolly to move the fridge in and out for trial fits by myself.


Bolted on each side at the rear.



What you see is the plywood that closes the opening to the back of the fridge, the small opening is there to allow access to the bolts just in case the fridge needs to be moved.
The fiberglass in the center is replaced and the cover is then placed over that and everything looks as it was. I used alum tape to close off the vents in the cover and then DUCT tape on top of that. Also removed the gas line, and capped it off at the manifold under the coach, its 3/8ths fitting just in case you want to know.
It works perfectly and we have solid ICE CREAM YEAAAA.
Jim
Hi Jim,

When you say you have a hallway, I don't see it in the pictures. Mine has only 25.5" between the facing of the fridge cabinet and the wall across from it. The other trick will be getting a single door to open fully n that space.

Thanks for the pictures. Gave me some good ideas.

John
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Old 09-28-2013, 06:34 PM   #38
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One thing to consider is that both Dometic and Norcold carry an all electric RV fridge... Now, here are some numbers

A normal RV fridge draws about 350 watts when running on AC. Bit less on DC but it does not work as well (If it's a 3 way) Which is why they don't make 3-ways any more or at least not as many.

A residential fridge upwards of 100 watts running, some easily as high as 500 watts.

These high efficiency power suckers, 35-40 watts with the door closed, Folks that is 3 amps more or less at 12 volt and 0.3 at 120.

Open the door you dang near double that when the light comes on.
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Old 09-28-2013, 06:41 PM   #39
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One thing to consider is that both Dometic and Norcold carry an all electric RV fridge... Now, here are some numbers

A normal RV fridge draws about 350 watts when running on AC. Bit less on DC but it does not work as well (If it's a 3 way) Which is why they don't make 3-ways any more or at least not as many.

A residential fridge upwards of 100 watts running, some easily as high as 500 watts.

These high efficiency power suckers, 35-40 watts with the door closed, Folks that is 3 amps more or less at 12 volt and 0.3 at 120.

Open the door you dang near double that when the light comes on.

The Samsung RF197 that is popular with RVers uses ~100 watts on the average. The interior lights are all LEDs so they don't contribute much to the power use.

What you didn't include in your comments about RV fridges is that they consume a fair amount of DC for their controls even when running on propane.
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Old 09-28-2013, 07:02 PM   #40
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One thing to consider is that both Dometic and Norcold carry an all electric RV fridge... Now, here are some numbers

A normal RV fridge draws about 350 watts when running on AC. Bit less on DC but it does not work as well (If it's a 3 way) Which is why they don't make 3-ways any more or at least not as many.

A residential fridge upwards of 100 watts running, some easily as high as 500 watts.

These high efficiency power suckers, 35-40 watts with the door closed, Folks that is 3 amps more or less at 12 volt and 0.3 at 120.

Open the door you dang near double that when the light comes on.
Aren't those small single-door models? Two or three years ago I needed to replace my 9 cu.ft. Dometic "New Dimensions" and looked at Dometic all-electric but learned that their 8 c.ft. double door RV model was discontinued due to a fire destroying the plant in Mexico where they were made, and that they wouldn't be replacing it.

At that time the only 8 cu.ft. double-door RV type models were "NovaKool" and "Vitrifrigo" (which I got and have been very happy with). They're 12 vdc and mine draws 4.5 amps (55 watt) when the compressor is running - the light is LED so it draws very little.
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Old 09-28-2013, 07:13 PM   #41
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Richard,

I went over and re-measured everything today. The hall is only 25.5 inches wide at one point. I can barely get 70" height.

I had made my decision to get the Samsung but now I don't think it will fit during the install. Also, with the unit depth of 28+", how much space does the open door require to go 90 degrees?

I may have to go to plan B etc. I was planning on getting the Samsung and even have a inverter outlet nearby I could use. Any ideas???

John
With a hallway like that any two door model will not allow you to open the doors because remember that each door is the width of the fridge.

You need a side by side or the French door model.

The Samsung French doors require about 17 inches from the face of your cabinet to fully open 90 degrees. The freezer drawer requires the same to roll out. Because the face of the freezer drawer is slightly curved my initial measurement for the drawer was about 16 inches but I would use 17 inches for all doors.

The body of the Samsung will be flush with the face of your cabinet otherwise the doors won't open if the fridge is too far back. The doors and handles will stick out from there.

My fridge is located partway into the hallway going to the rear and partway in the kitchen. The hallway portion (which covers about 8 inches of the fridge) measures 28 inches so the installers did not have too much difficulty getting the fridge in with the doors on. They installed the freezer drawer afterwards. If you look closely at the photos you will notice that the left rear was placed into the opening first as that is where the tightest measurement was located in the hallway.

I think the Samsung will work out once you have it in position. Getting the doors on will be your biggest challenge but not insurmountable. With some help from neighbors it should go easy.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 09-28-2013, 08:02 PM   #42
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With a hallway like that any two door model will not allow you to open the doors because remember that each door is the width of the fridge.

You need a side by side or the French door model.

The Samsung French doors require about 17 inches from the face of your cabinet to fully open 90 degrees. The freezer drawer requires the same to roll out. Because the face of the freezer drawer is slightly curved my initial measurement for the drawer was about 16 inches but I would use 17 inches for all doors.

The body of the Samsung will be flush with the face of your cabinet otherwise the doors won't open if the fridge is too far back. The doors and handles will stick out from there.

My fridge is located partway into the hallway going to the rear and partway in the kitchen. The hallway portion (which covers about 8 inches of the fridge) measures 28 inches so the installers did not have too much difficulty getting the fridge in with the doors on. They installed the freezer drawer afterwards. If you look closely at the photos you will notice that the left rear was placed into the opening first as that is where the tightest measurement was located in the hallway.

I think the Samsung will work out once you have it in position. Getting the doors on will be your biggest challenge but not insurmountable. With some help from neighbors it should go easy.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
Do the doors attach at the top with a phillips head bolt or a hex that could be screwed in with a small wrench? I would like to make this work...
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