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Old 09-29-2013, 09:18 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zzjea View Post
Richard,

Wow, that is a very involved process. Do you really think I could get the top of the door back on with almost no clearance with the ceiling? Does the total height dimension include the "table assembly" at the top?

John
Don't know about yours specifically but others have handled assembly while still on a dolly by moving the reefer under a ceiling fan or removing a light fixture to get a "ceiling hole" to work in.
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:39 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnBoyToo View Post
I had had enough of the rv fridges never getting cold enough...
even with vent fan additions and fans on the inside and having to be perfectly level... it still spoiled a lot of food...

so our new rv was ordered with a Samsung !!!

My guess is that the residential doesn't need to be AS level to work properly, correct ?!?
Just noticed in your photos the warning on the Samsung "Free-Standing Installation Only." This reminded me of a problem I had with a wine chiller at our last house. I took one that had previously stood in a corner of the dining room, and had it built in to cabinets in a "butler's pantry." A couple of years later, it overheated and died. I had overlooked the warning -- you guessed it, "Free-Standing Installation Only." Looking at replacement units, I realized that the ones designed to be enclosed in cabinets were vented at the bottom front, while those meant to be free-standing needed air flow in the rear.

To make this relevant to RV refrigerators -- I just checked the Whirlpool fridge in our brand-new all-electric 2014 Tuscany RX. I see that the refrigerator is vented at the bottom front, and Thor cut vent slots in the wood trim at the bottom front to match the vents in the Whirlpool, so airflow is not blocked.

So I think the point here is, whatever kind of residential fridge you install, make sure it has adequate airflow over the external coils, whether on the back or bottom of the box. All refrigerators generate heat (well, actually they move it from the inside to the outside), and it needs to go somewhere.
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:05 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zzjea View Post

Richard,

Wow, that is a very involved process. Do you really think I could get the top of the door back on with almost no clearance with the ceiling? Does the total height dimension include the "table assembly" at the top?

John
I had minimal clearance at the ceiling also whereby they had to remove a recessed fluorescence ceiling light fixture located directly in front of the fridge. However, I had the depth so they were able to install the two doors while the fridge was on the floor.

In your case, the best method is to slip the fridge into the opening partway without the doors just enough to allow you to tip the front down resting the front edge of the fridge on something to hold the weight. This will allow you to attach the doors and the hardware at the top and also the electronics and cover. Obviously this is more than a one person project.

The total height of 70 inches includes everything, table, hinges, etc.

I have two other tips regarding the Samsung fridge installation. The two front feet used to level the fridge in a house can be removed and turned around 180 degrees and re-installed thereby not needing to extend the front of the platform where the fridge sits to accommodate the feet. Second, remove the rear vent access panel on the back of the fridge BEFORE sliding the fridge into the opening. If not you will NOT be able to reach all of the screws to remove the cover for cleaning the drain tubes or for securing the rear deck of the fridge to the floor.


Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptBill View Post

What grabbed my attention is that if they provide a 5 year sealed system warranty, they seem to have more confidence in their product than others who do not.
The place where I purchased my Samsung from gave me a 10 year sealed system warranty.

That REALLY caught my eye!

I have had only one minor problem with the RF197 which I had documented previously in another thread. Others with the same unit have not had a problem but not everyone full-times like we do. So they may not have used it enough for the problem to show up.

Samsung sent a service tech to the RV Park where I was staying at the time and took care of the problem.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 09-29-2013, 11:33 AM   #60
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samsung replacement

Has anyone replaced the norcold 1200lrim with this unit in a allegro bay 38tdb. My unit has the fuse box under it and looks like the 69 3/4 will be too tall. The norcold has a 60 in height?
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Old 09-29-2013, 12:44 PM   #61
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Has anyone replaced the norcold 1200lrim with this unit in a allegro bay 38tdb. My unit has the fuse box under it and looks like the 69 3/4 will be too tall. The norcold has a 60 in height?
You need to come up with 69 7/8 inches or 70 inches would be the best for the proper height requirement. The width and depth are not a concern unless you have rounded ceilings that taper down toward the sides.

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Old 09-29-2013, 02:12 PM   #62
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Ok, Bob asked me a question that I had not addressed, so here is the answer I provided to him, as others might have the same problem. The foot under the hinge of Whirlpool sits in front of the foot on the left. If you don't move it the foot looks weird sticking out and doesn't support the hinge side of the door, at least it wouldn't in my case.
Bob, yes good question, forgot that one. I removed the plastic foot and cut the stud off even with the hinge.
To do this mod, you have to remove the bottom hinge from the door. Note when you remove the hinge, there is a hole with a threaded nut up in that hole in the middle of the two hinge bolts at the rear.
This hole is slightly ahead of the two hinge bolts in the rear. I marked and drilled a hole in the hinge to match the pre threaded hole, it can be a little large, the hole in the hinge that is.
Now take the plastic foot over to ACE and get a small piece of pre threaded rod that fits in the plastic foot, it will also thread into the hole in the fridge.
Put the hinge back on, thread the rod back in the encapsulated nut in the fridge, and the new hole in the hinge.
Put a lock washer and nut on the threaded rod and then the plastic foot, the foot is now back even with the one on the left, if your doors open from left to right
That's the way I did it.
Thanks for asking Bob, hope this helps



Quote:
Originally Posted by RMS
Just curious---what, if anything, did you do with the leveling foot under the door hinge?

So far I've ignored mine but of course, the wife mentioned it right away. Thought about cutting it off but I'm not in a hurry to do that .

By the way--nice install---I'm still up in the air about closing off my vents although I realize house fridges are enclosed.

Take Care
Bob
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Old 09-29-2013, 06:01 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by Dr4Film View Post
I had minimal clearance at the ceiling also whereby they had to remove a recessed fluorescence ceiling light fixture located directly in front of the fridge. However, I had the depth so they were able to install the two doors while the fridge was on the floor.

In your case, the best method is to slip the fridge into the opening partway without the doors just enough to allow you to tip the front down resting the front edge of the fridge on something to hold the weight. This will allow you to attach the doors and the hardware at the top and also the electronics and cover. Obviously this is more than a one person project.

The total height of 70 inches includes everything, table, hinges, etc.

I have two other tips regarding the Samsung fridge installation. The two front feet used to level the fridge in a house can be removed and turned around 180 degrees and re-installed thereby not needing to extend the front of the platform where the fridge sits to accommodate the feet. Second, remove the rear vent access panel on the back of the fridge BEFORE sliding the fridge into the opening. If not you will NOT be able to reach all of the screws to remove the cover for cleaning the drain tubes or for securing the rear deck of the fridge to the floor.




The place where I purchased my Samsung from gave me a 10 year sealed system warranty.

That REALLY caught my eye!

I have had only one minor problem with the RF197 which I had documented previously in another thread. Others with the same unit have not had a problem but not everyone full-times like we do. So they may not have used it enough for the problem to show up.

Samsung sent a service tech to the RV Park where I was staying at the time and took care of the problem.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
I went over and tried to see what would be involved with moving the wall across from the fridge. It would be time consuming (isn't everything we do) and require some redesign since the toilet room is on the other side. Now to decide if I want to tackle another project along with the entire re-flooring I had started.

I unhooked the Dometic and pulled it less than halfway out and measured for building a dolly. I will use a small furniture dolly (flat) and put a piece of plywood down for a base and build up a platform to match the height of the fridge. It won't work for the new one as I will have to enlarge the vertical space. Just more stuff to do.. Glad I'm retired (or am I)?
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Old 09-29-2013, 06:12 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by elbeau54 View Post
Has anyone replaced the norcold 1200lrim with this unit in a allegro bay 38tdb. My unit has the fuse box under it and looks like the 69 3/4 will be too tall. The norcold has a 60 in height?
I went with this Fisher & Paykel RDF170ADX1

I purchased it here: Warehouse Discount Center

Yes it is more expensive than the Samsung RF197, but height was an issue. This one fit into the existing cabinet with the least amount of carpentry work. I did have to remove the drawers below my existing fridge, but to go with the Samsung, I would have had to remove - or at least significantly modify - the cabinets above the fridge also.

I did call Fisher & Paykel Tech support (in New Zealand).
1) Using it in a mobile application will not void the warranty.
2) It will run on a MSW inverter.
3) It can be installed in a cabinet as long as air can flow from the bottom front, across the bottom, up the back and exit the top back into the room (or outside even).

It's just an option I thought I might bring to your attention seeing as height seems to be an issue for you.

If you are unfamiliar with Fisher & Paykel as I was, they do sell some models at Lowe's. My research seemed to indicate that Fisher & Paykel is a fairly high-end appliance, but my research was not that scientific. For me... it was pretty much all about the size of the box!

This is what it looks like installed.
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Old 09-29-2013, 06:13 PM   #65
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Just got our coach out of the service center because of a breakdown on the road last week. If we would have had a residential frig we would have been in real trouble. Yes we have a 7500 Onan and yes we have a 2500 Inverter, but no we would not have been able to keep running the frig from the time of the breakdown, being towed and the time waiting through service repair. In another words, a breakdown is like boondocking for a very long time. And, if your on the road where in the world do you put all that food plus the frozen food? Our Norcold was a blessing. But, if your not traveling much and your coach is parked for months at a time with full hook-up a res. frig might be your answer.....but don't ever breakdown on the road.
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Old 09-29-2013, 06:29 PM   #66
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Just got our coach out of the service center because of a breakdown on the road last week. If we would have had a residential frig we would have been in real trouble. Yes we have a 7500 Onan and yes we have a 2500 Inverter, but no we would not have been able to keep running the frig from the time of the breakdown, being towed and the time waiting through service repair. In another words, a breakdown is like boondocking for a very long time. And, if your on the road where in the world do you put all that food plus the frozen food? Our Norcold was a blessing. But, if your not traveling much and your coach is parked for months at a time with full hook-up a res. frig might be your answer.....but don't ever breakdown on the road.
That is certainly something to consider.

The only tme I've Broken down and had to stay overnight, the shop let me plug into a 20amp outlet so I didn't have to run the then, Dometic on propane.

I'm sure every case is different, and should be considered before making this decission, but in my 17 young years of RVing, that's the only time I've had to spend the night at a repair shop. So I would think the risk is minimal compared to the reward... at least for me.
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Old 09-29-2013, 06:35 PM   #67
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That is certainly something to consider.

The only tme I've Broken down and had to stay overnight, the shop let me plug into a 20amp outlet so I didn't have to run the then, Dometic on propane.

I'm sure every case is different, and should be considered before making this decission, but in my 17 young years of RVing, that's the only time I've had to spend the night in at a repair shop. So I would think the risk is minimal compared to the reward... at least for me.
X2 ... same thing could happen at home ... and sometimes does ... usually when you are away for a few days
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Old 09-29-2013, 06:48 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by vtwinwilly View Post
I went with this Fisher & Paykel RDF170ADX1

I purchased it here: Warehouse Discount Center

Yes it is more expensive than the Samsung RF197, but height was an issue. This one fit into the existing cabinet with the least amount of carpentry work. I did have to remove the drawers below my existing fridge, but to go with the Samsung, I would have had to remove - or at least significantly modify - the cabinets above the fridge also.

I did call Fisher & Paykel Tech support (in New Zealand).
1) Using it in a mobile application will not void the warranty.
2) It will run on a MSW inverter.
3) It can be installed in a cabinet as long as air can flow from the bottom front, across the bottom, up the back and exit the top back into the room (or outside even).

It's just an option I thought I might bring to your attention seeing as height seems to be an issue for you.

If you are unfamiliar with Fisher & Paykel as I was, they do sell some models at Lowe's. My research seemed to indicate that Fisher & Paykel is a fairly high-end appliance, but my research was not that scientific. For me... it was pretty much all about the size of the box!

This is what it looks like installed.
Thanks. I had looked at these although about $700 more. I downloaded the PDF installation guide and nowhere did it say what the depth is without the doors. That is critical for me: 1) to get it in thru the door and 2) get it installed thru the hallway that is only 25.5" wide.

John
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Old 09-29-2013, 06:58 PM   #69
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BTW Richard Dr4Film, how much ventilation space do you have around the Samsung? You had the roof opening closed so ventilation is all internal.

John
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Old 09-29-2013, 07:20 PM   #70
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On my Samsung 197 that we had installed this week, I have about 2" in the back it is setting on all 4 rollers so about 2" on the bottom about 1" on top and maybe 1/2" on the sides. The sides have trim on them so it looks good.
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