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Old 09-29-2013, 08:27 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by zzjea View Post
Thanks. I had looked at these although about $700 more. I downloaded the PDF installation guide and nowhere did it say what the depth is without the doors. That is critical for me: 1) to get it in thru the door and 2) get it installed thru the hallway that is only 25.5" wide.

John
I know somewhere I had some documentation that said the box was 24inches deep without the door... but I can't seem to find it.

I just went out to the motorhome and slipped a tape measure into the gap at the top and fished back until it hung on the back of the fridge. At the top, it measures 23 3/8 of an inch from the back to the front edge of the box only (not including the doors or handles).

NOTE: there may be things that protrude from the back that get it up to the 24 inches, but looking up through the back access panel, I don't see anything.

NOTE2: The deminsions listed on the WDC website (See WDC link above), seem to be rounded up. For example. The specs show the fridge to be 67 1/2 inches tall. Mine measures 67 5/16 at the top of the doors, and 67 3/16 at the top of the hinge covers (the highest part that has to fit into your cabinet.

Width is only slightly off. Specs say 31 1/8. Mine measures 31 1/16.

Let me know if you need any additional measurements. Glad to help if I can.
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:22 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by vtwinwilly View Post
I know somewhere I had some documentation that said the box was 24inches deep without the door... but I can't seem to find it.

I just went out to the motorhome and slipped a tape measure into the gap at the top and fished back until it hung on the back of the fridge. At the top, it measures 23 3/8 of an inch from the back to the front edge of the box only (not including the doors or handles).

NOTE: there may be things that protrude from the back that get it up to the 24 inches, but looking up through the back access panel, I don't see anything.

NOTE2: The deminsions listed on the WDC website (See WDC link above), seem to be rounded up. For example. The specs show the fridge to be 67 1/2 inches tall. Mine measures 67 5/16 at the top of the doors, and 67 3/16 at the top of the hinge covers (the highest part that has to fit into your cabinet.

Width is only slightly off. Specs say 31 1/8. Mine measures 31 1/16.

Let me know if you need any additional measurements. Glad to help if I can.
What was the depth with the doors? With a shorter frig. I should be able to put the doors back on after it's in part way.

John
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Old 09-30-2013, 09:02 AM   #73
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Just got our coach out of the service center because of a breakdown on the road last week. If we would have had a residential frig we would have been in real trouble. Yes we have a 7500 Onan and yes we have a 2500 Inverter, but no we would not have been able to keep running the frig from the time of the breakdown, being towed and the time waiting through service repair. In another words, a breakdown is like boondocking for a very long time. And, if your on the road where in the world do you put all that food plus the frozen food? Our Norcold was a blessing. But, if your not traveling much and your coach is parked for months at a time with full hook-up a res. frig might be your answer.....but don't ever breakdown on the road.
Sorry, but I have to respectfully disagree.

Since the coach is R HOME when we need service for any extended length of time EVERY service department has always been very accommodating with providing power to keep the batteries charged and the fridge running. There has been only once where I chose to use a motel for one night but that was my choice not theirs and they had me hooked up to a 30 amp service all of time the coach was being worked on.

One other time when I had a lot of service being done which took over a week to finish everything, we had power to the coach at all times and we were able to stay in the coach every night.

If my engine is not running then the fridge is running off of the inverter and batteries. When the batteries get low to 50% SOC the generator kicks in and charges the batteries back to Float SOC. This can go on forever depending on the amount of diesel in my tank. Important point - keep track of the fuel level in your tank while traveling! I also have Aqua-Hot which burns diesel so I am ALWAYS aware of my fuel level BEFORE stopping for the night. Plus I carry spare fuel filters for those times when you will pump some BAD fuel and trust me if you do any decent amount of traveling around the NA continent like we do you WILL get some bad fuel at least once.

There are only two scenarios where keeping a residential fridge running in my RV could possibly cause a problem. The first would be if both the main Cummins power plant for the coach and the generator were to crap out at the same time. That is highly unlikely as I keep them both well maintained and in good working order. Or if we were ever to be in a catastrophic accident rendering both the Cummins main power plant and the generator inoperative. If that were to happen most likely we won't be in any condition to worry about the food inside the fridge anyway.

There are thousands of people every year that lose power to their houses due to severe weather conditions or accidents, etc. What do THOSE people do with their fridge, switch it to LPG like how the Amish people run their fridges ALL of the time? No...they either go find themselves a generator to keep the food from spoiling or eat well for a couple of days or throw it all out.

Personally, living in a FULLY self-contained RV provides me the comfort knowing that I can deal with most emergency situations when needed.

I glad that you have a Norcold that works well for you. Many do not and then there are some that have lost their coach because their Norcold caught fire.

Here is one example that happen just recently.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f84/recal...ed-177590.html

Hopefully it will never happen to you.

Safe travels!

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Old 09-30-2013, 09:19 AM   #74
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BTW Richard Dr4Film, how much ventilation space do you have around the Samsung? You had the roof opening closed so ventilation is all internal.

John
John,

There are 2 inches or more on the sides, just under 2 inches on the back and more than 2 inches on the top. Plenty of space for ventilation.

The Samsung gets its ventilation from the bottom front. The coil and compressor are at the rear bottom so the air comes in from the bottom over the coil and compressor and then circulates up because it is warm.

I chose to block off the top roof-vent and the rear outside RV fridge vent preventing dirt and other debris from entering the coach while traveling and on windy days when parked. Remember that the RV fridges were sealed into the opening whereas the residential is not.

Some people have chosen not to seal the roof-tops or the side vents but that's their choice.

The fridge doesn't give off that much heat and it has also been a very low energy consumer. I have a Kill-O-Watt on the fridge and most of the time when I look at the amp use it has been around .08 amps. That goes up when the compressor kicks on or when making ice cubes but not that much.

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Old 09-30-2013, 11:48 AM   #75
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Dr4Film, All your senerios are accurate including being able to hook up at RV service centers. However, there were no RV service centers in the Spokane area that were qualified to work on our Cat engine. It had to go to a truck service center and they are not equipped to house motorhomes inside their service bays or allow you the opportunity to sleep in them. We are totally self sufficient where we live. We need no outside utilities or comforts that are available in town so I know when you talk about your coach being fully self sufficient I totally agree. Just saying the gas option on the refer is much more self sufficient than having to rely totally on electricity. The Norcold/Dometic vs. residential refrigerators debate can be found on many other threads so I'm not going there. Too bad residential refers don't have the elec/gas option....just saying!
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:20 PM   #76
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It had to go to a truck service center and they are not equipped to house motorhomes inside their service bays or allow you the opportunity to sleep in them. Just saying the gas option on the refer is much more self sufficient than having to rely totally on electricity.
Some service centers would not allow a RV to have the propane turned on, especially with a live flame on the frige! Surely they would have a 110vac outlet that you could plug in an extension cord that would run to the frige.

I am installing a RF197 in our coach this week and the AC plug is located behind the side vent. While I will be closing off the vents in the side vent, I can still remove it and plug an extension cord directly to the frige. No adapters for the 50amp cable required...
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Old 09-30-2013, 01:12 PM   #77
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Dr4Film, All your senerios are accurate including being able to hook up at RV service centers. However, there were no RV service centers in the Spokane area that were qualified to work on our Cat engine. It had to go to a truck service center and they are not equipped to house motorhomes inside their service bays or allow you the opportunity to sleep in them. We are totally self sufficient where we live. We need no outside utilities or comforts that are available in town so I know when you talk about your coach being fully self sufficient I totally agree. Just saying the gas option on the refer is much more self sufficient than having to rely totally on electricity. The Norcold/Dometic vs. residential refrigerators debate can be found on many other threads so I'm not going there. Too bad residential refers don't have the elec/gas option....just saying!
and it's sad my CAT diesel doesn't have the Flux Capacitor option ... just sayin'
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Old 09-30-2013, 01:32 PM   #78
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Some people have chosen not to seal the roof-tops or the side vents but that's their choice.

The fridge doesn't give off that much heat and it has also been a very low energy consumer.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
I have a smaller (10cf) Summit and it has rear vertical coils. I have both the back vent and ceiling vent open ... works fine except in very hot (about 95+ degrees where the reefer runs a little warmer and I need to dial down the thermostat a "smidgen".... I live in Florida. However, I'm considering sealing the vents and opening the area below and above the reefer into the cabin. I am considering this to allow the A/C to pre-cool the air that circulates around the reefer. Downside is I will be slightly warming the air that has been cooled by the A/C. Probably not much to worry about.

Now, a slightly related question ...

For those that have an RV with a residential reefer in a cold place, and the inside/outside temp has reached 32 degrees or below, has anyone had a compressor start-up issue? (remember, I'm in Florida so have not experienced cold for more than a few hours ). Yes, I have lived up north and had a reefer in the garage, but typically the reefer was never powered down .... and it was located against a "warm" wall.
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Old 09-30-2013, 03:00 PM   #79
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Seems to me that one misses out on a very big advantage (often overlooked, but a big advantage) of having a compressor type of frig if you don't seal up the outside vents (and add/insure adequate interior ventilation of course). They (either compressor or absorption) just don't work well in high or low ambient temperatures. Absorption units must be vented to the outside so you're stuck in that case, but compressor types can and should be vented inside.
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Old 09-30-2013, 03:16 PM   #80
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Now, a slightly related question ...

For those that have an RV with a residential reefer in a cold place, and the inside/outside temp has reached 32 degrees or below, has anyone had a compressor start-up issue? (remember, I'm in Florida so have not experienced cold for more than a few hours ). Yes, I have lived up north and had a reefer in the garage, but typically the reefer was never powered down .... and it was located against a "warm" wall.
Sorry, I can't answer that one because R HOME has been in weather a lot lower than 32F but the inside is always toasty due to our Aqua-Hot system and a couple of well placed ceramic heaters.

Most of the time we follow the good weather and never have to worry about it.

But using common sense and logic, I would dare say that the coach should be warmed up before turning on the Samsung.

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Old 09-30-2013, 03:22 PM   #81
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Seems to me that one misses out on a very big advantage (often overlooked, but a big advantage) of having a compressor type of frig if you don't seal up the outside vents (and add/insure adequate interior ventilation of course). They (either compressor or absorption) just don't work well in high or low ambient temperatures. Absorption units must be vented to the outside so you're stuck in that case, but compressor types can and should be vented inside.
I don't think that's a certainty. Assuming you are regulating the inside temps to something more favorable than outside that's probably true. If the RV remains in a climate that doesn't have extremes I don't see why it would make any difference ... shady site in the Keys with your windows open for instance ... Portland, Oregon ... some areas near the mountains in Georgia. This summer has been particularly hot but Florida is normally OK to vent inside,outside,or some combination.
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Old 09-30-2013, 03:27 PM   #82
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Sorry, I can't answer that one because R HOME has been in weather a lot lower than 32F but the inside is always toasty due to our Aqua-Hot system and a couple of well placed ceramic heaters.

Most of the time we follow the good weather and never have to worry about it.

But using common sense and logic, I would dare say that the coach should be warmed up before turning on the Samsung.

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That's the best solution ...
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Old 09-30-2013, 05:08 PM   #83
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That RFD fridge is very dear!! Twice what others have paid for the Samsung
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Old 09-30-2013, 05:22 PM   #84
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Fisher & Paykel RDF170ADX1 - Rear to Front Depth

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What was the depth with the doors? With a shorter frig. I should be able to put the doors back on after it's in part way.

John
John,

I measured from the rear to the front of my Fisher & Paykel RDF170ADX1. The dimensions are as follows:

1) Back to the face of the doors (not including handles) - 26 inches
2) Back to outer edge of handles - 27 5/8 inches.

To everyone else. Sorry, it was not my intent to splinter this thread, but I think everything so far has been relevant... at least loosely.
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