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Old 09-30-2013, 05:29 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by moisheh View Post
That RFD fridge is very dear!! Twice what others have paid for the Samsung
I assume you mean the Fisher & Paykel RDF170ADX1... yes?

If so, you are right. But from my vantage point it was a deal! My old Dometic had set itself on fire. It was completely shot! The replacement for the Domentic with door panels was $3800+ and that's not installed. To me, $2000 seemed like a bargain!

... and I am very happy with it and don't regret spending the money at all.

If the Samsung would have been a better fit, I would have gone with it. After all, $700 is a nice chunk of change. (I haven't seen the Stainless RF197 for less than $1300... or at least that was the going price at the time).

As always... your mileage may vary.
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Old 09-30-2013, 09:23 PM   #86
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Well anyway. I took out the old Dometic this afternoon and it is sitting in the kitchen area on a dolly with a home made riser the right height to get it out of the opening. To my surprise, the depth of that unit from back of coils to front doors is 26". I can't get it out the door without dismantling it by taking the doors and frame off and maybe also the coils. Is this standard procedure to get these beasts out?

I tore out the floor of the old space to make room for something else and found that I only have 70" from the top of the furnace to the ceiling. I would have to put a floor in and that could be 1/2" plywood but that only gives me 69.5" clearance. I am a little concerned about putting the new floor directly on top of the furnace so I should leave at least an inch or two. That brings me to 67.5 or 68.5 to work with. It is looking like the Samsung and a few others won't work for me. I was ready to order today but glad I waited.

As before, any comments are welcome. I'm not going to put anything but a residential back in. So the search continues.

BTW, HomeClick.com has a sale on that ends at midnight tonight on these Samsungs. Best price I could find.

John
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Old 09-30-2013, 09:55 PM   #87
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RTFM

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Originally Posted by zzjea View Post
I tore out the floor of the old space to make room for something else and found that I only have 70" from the top of the furnace to the ceiling. I would have to put a floor in and that could be 1/2" plywood but that only gives me 69.5" clearance. I am a little concerned about putting the new floor directly on top of the furnace so I should leave at least an inch or two.
When in doubt RTFM (Read The Manual). If it's a Suburban gas furnace, you may only need 1-inch of clearance. But check the manual for your furnace before you start sawing.
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Old 09-30-2013, 10:03 PM   #88
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When in doubt RTFM (Read The Manual). If it's a Suburban gas furnace, you may only need 1-inch of clearance. But check the manual for your furnace before you start sawing.
Even 1" puts me out of the Samsung. The Samsung is 69.75 and the best I could do is 68.5 with a 1" clearance over the furnace and a 1/2" floor on top of that.

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Old 09-30-2013, 11:01 PM   #89
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Even 1" puts me out of the Samsung. The Samsung is 69.75 and the best I could do is 68.5 with a 1" clearance over the furnace and a 1/2" floor on top of that.John
Today I pulled our Norcold 1200 and started preparing the area for the Samsung RF197 which will arrive tomorrow between 9am and 1pm. I have read all the docs and looked at all the specs including measurements. Our coach has two 12" high drawers under the frige so I know I will have plenty of room. However, I am waiting until the RF197 arrives so I can measure it to see exactly where I need to reinstall the floor. I hope to have everything back in the cabinet by tomorrow evening!
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Old 09-30-2013, 11:06 PM   #90
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John,

Don't give up hope yet. There have been others in the same situation as you have with a furnace below the RV fridge and have built a special platform to hold the fridge. It's not a solid floor so it allows for ventilation of the furnace below the Samsung which doesn't have a solid bottom either.

Let me do some searching for the ones on iRV2.com that have posted exactly how they accomplished the task and I remember seeing photos too.

I will re-post once I have found those links.

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Old 09-30-2013, 11:42 PM   #91
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Bob Nodine is one person who installed a Samsung over a heater.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/sams...dq-102210.html

Here is another one that was done not too long ago by Diplomat Don but he had a little more room than you do however you may get some valuable ideas from the way he did his installation.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/sams...er-159692.html

I am sure that both Bob and Don would give you any advice you needed. They are both great guy's and very talented and ingenious with out of the box ideas.

Here is another long thread about installing Samsung fridges which may give you some valuable information.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/repl...197-97661.html

Good luck and have fun reading through these threads and photos.

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Old 10-01-2013, 07:26 AM   #92
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Some service centers would not allow a RV to have the propane turned on, especially with a live flame on the frige! Surely they would have a 110vac outlet that you could plug in an extension cord that would run to the frige....
Ditto. Almost every shop should be able to give you an extension cord to plug into, even if it's only 15 amps. On the other hand, many shops may not allow the LP tank to be on while parked inside.

We have been stuck overnight for service a couple of times, and they have always been able to leave the coach plugged in.
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Old 10-01-2013, 10:54 AM   #93
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Originally Posted by Dr4Film View Post
Bob Nodine is one person who installed a Samsung over a heater.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/sams...dq-102210.html

Here is another one that was done not too long ago by Diplomat Don but he had a little more room than you do however you may get some valuable ideas from the way he did his installation.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/sams...er-159692.html

I am sure that both Bob and Don would give you any advice you needed. They are both great guy's and very talented and ingenious with out of the box ideas.

Here is another long thread about installing Samsung fridges which may give you some valuable information.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/repl...197-97661.html

Good luck and have fun reading through these threads and photos.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
Richard,

I have now read all of these threads and have some new ideas. I'm going over today to look at some options. If I had a metal floor that was only 1/4" thick and supported properly, I would gain a little but not enough. Right now the furnace is elevated about 2" over some elec. and plumbing lines. If I can lower it and still get the exhaust routed out the vent in the sidewall, I would gain enough to make it work.

I will take a close look and maybe even remove the furnace from its mounting to see what could be done. We really don't use this furnace and it could be removed since we are in a warmer climate (Houston), but it does also heat the utility bay so I hate to remove it completely. Also, for resale at some point in distant future, it should be there.

Thanks for the great feedback.

John
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Old 10-01-2013, 11:56 AM   #94
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Ditto. Almost every shop should be able to give you an extension cord to plug into, even if it's only 15 amps. On the other hand, many shops may not allow the LP tank to be on while parked inside.

We have been stuck overnight for service a couple of times, and they have always been able to leave the coach plugged in.

Almost every shop but not all. We had engine problems and were near Mohave, CA. We were towed to the Mohave Truck repair and they would not allow an extension cord or leaving the propane on. They did have an employee refrigerator so we moved all the refrigerator items to the employee refrigerator. Wasn't convenient spending three nights in a motel but at least we did not lose the food.
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Old 10-01-2013, 12:13 PM   #95
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You might have a look at this one:
Bosch B22CS50SN 21.7 cu. ft. Counter-Depth Side by Side Refrigerator with Adjustable Shelves, Gallon Door Storage, External Ice Maker and Water Dispenser, Energy Star Qualified and Sabbath Mode
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Old 10-01-2013, 12:41 PM   #96
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Thanks but that one is 36" wide and won't fit in my 33" space. It is also rather deep and would stick out too far in the narrow hallway space. Not to mention it is about $1000 more.

My situation is I need a counter-depth (24" deep without doors), 32-33" wide, and under 69" height. This is due to getting in the door (25" max), a narrow hallway in front of the fridge (26" max) and a furnace below the fridge floor. I also did not want to spend any more than I have to. There is one that that might work (Fisher and Paykel) but it is $700 more than the Samsung. I'm trying to avoid that extra expense.

My home side by side is about 20 years old and still works fine. If it wasn't so big I would put in the MH and get a new one of any size for the house. Seems a shame to put a new one in the MH that we only use occasionally when the one we use everyday is 20 years old. But the old thing never has a problem and still looks pretty good. No LEDs on the inside though so that dates it right there.

John
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Old 10-01-2013, 03:13 PM   #97
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Thanks but that one is 36" wide and won't fit in my 33" space. It is also rather deep and would stick out too far in the narrow hallway space. Not to mention it is about $1000 more.

My situation is I need a counter-depth (24" deep without doors), 32-33" wide, and under 69" height. This is due to getting in the door (25" max), a narrow hallway in front of the fridge (26" max) and a furnace below the fridge floor. I also did not want to spend any more than I have to. There is one that that might work (Fisher and Paykel) but it is $700 more than the Samsung. I'm trying to avoid that extra expense.

My home side by side is about 20 years old and still works fine. If it wasn't so big I would put in the MH and get a new one of any size for the house. Seems a shame to put a new one in the MH that we only use occasionally when the one we use everyday is 20 years old. But the old thing never has a problem and still looks pretty good. No LEDs on the inside though so that dates it right there.

John
Got it .... looks like the Fisher and Paykel or ...

maybe a conventional over/under counter-depth in a smaller size and add a narrow pantry or cubby holes for pots/pans/baking sheets/etc on the side.

LG LRBP1031T 10 cu. ft. Cabinet Depth Bottom Freezer Refrigerator with 2 Tempered Glass Shelves, 2 Vegetable Crispers, Quick Freezing Drawer and Digital Temperature Controls: Titanium
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Old 10-01-2013, 03:44 PM   #98
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John, given the way you said you use the motorhome, I would agree with Bruce (previous post) that a smaller, and much less expensive fridge would be on my short list. There's some photos, I think in this thread, of an installation that was exactly what we are talking about. He had made a small pantry installed to the right.

I also seem to remember seeing photos on another similar installation, but no pantry. They just cenetered the ned fridge, and then built a frame on each side of it, and closed off the face with some panels. That left a lot of space around the fridge, so no concerns with cooling.

You could go for that LG listed above for $800, or buy an11 cu ft, top-freezer Whirlpool for $449 (check H.D. website), or a Haier 11 cu in Lowes for $349 (and then get a 10% military discount if you qualify). That is the route we are going, and the 11 cu ft is still much larger than our 2-door Norcold. You cna also get an extended warranty on either of those models for less than $100.
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