Running the house with my motorhome genset?

[APhotoWizard]

Yes, you can do it, and it is relatively easy - IF..... I have a 7Kw quiet Diesel generator in my 2001 motor home. My motorhome has a 50A connection to the outside power, so there are two 120Vac legs with 240 Volts between legs. You can use a standard volt meter to verify your generator has the same configuration. Check the voltage at the transfer switch in your motorhome.

You may proceed once you have determined the generator's output and found it satisfactory. If you only have one leg or zero volts between legs, you can only power 120vac devices in your house. This is not likely worth the effort, but you may go ahead anyway with the reduced benefits.

Next, you need an automatic transfer switch between your main circuit breaker and the meter in your home. These devices come in many types and sizes. You will need one sized to match the main breaker in your power panel. You need one this large to keep it from burning out when the main power is on, even though the generator will never provide this much power. You can learn more here: https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/produ...damentals.html

This device will prevent power from coming out of the pigtail you will make, and prevent your generator from sending power down the utility line to possibly injuring a power company employee trying to repair the outage.

Next, you will need to install a power connection on the generator. I installed mine in the generator compartment. There was already a junction where the generator connected to the coach wiring. I bridged that connection to a new 50A socket which I mounted on the firewall directly below the existing connection.

Finally, you need a pigtail that runs from the generator input on the transfer switch to a plug that matches the socket you installed in the generator compartment.

When the power goes out.
1 - Plug the pigtail into the new generator plug you created. This is all the setup.

2 - Turn off all significant power used in the motorhome. The lights are OK.

3 - Turn off all the breakers in the house except the main

3 - Start the generator.

4 - When the generator takes the load, go into the house and start turning on the breakers.

Some Notes: If you have electric heat, a baseboard heater, a water heater, or other large loads, you will likely trip the breaker on the generator. Turn off those breakers and reset the breaker on the generator.

In my house, I have a gas stove, a gas water heater, and a gas furnace, so I can activate my setup and enjoy nearly everything in my house for as long as the diesel lasts or the power comes back on.

Stop the generator at least once every 24 hours to check the oil and perform the required maintenance.

I hope you enjoy having backup power at a fraction of the cost of another generator, as I have for many years.

[dhschultz39]

[QUOTE=Ghost;6501079]I have a 7kw Onan/Cummins genset installed in my rig.
I am curious to know if there is a method by which I can use it to run my home during a power outage.
Anyone done this?
If so - was Cummins able to provide you with a power outlet panel? Lockout switch?
Thanks,
Kent


Here's some help with stuff I've used to hookup my Alpine Onan 7.5KW GenSet to the house. Have done for 45 yrs with various GenSets.
Make sure ampacity of "extension cord" adequate.
Make sure, if using only 3 conductor cable, neutral is sized for 60 amps since the two 120 volt 30 amp GenSet sources are in sync
Make sure all house loads are "shed" before closing in on GenSet
Make sure to install interlock - electrocution of line-man not good
Make sure to prepare exactly instructions to post on service panel.
Use a "pigtail" attached permanently thru cable clamp to output terminal board at GenSet for easy hookup in emergency.
Make sure pig-tail twist-lock connector at GenSet terminates with female half of connector.
If any detailed questions, feel free off-line contact <dhschultz39@msn.com>
r/s

[mandopay]

Had a few outages, ran an extension cord into the house, ran the fridge, tv and a light. No problem, no transfer switch, no fooling around in the panel. During the day, I plugged into the inverter and ran off the solar panels. If the battery got low, started the generator. Cheap and easy.

[UniqueName]

dhschultz39;


Nice post. I chose the interlock solution instead of a transfer switch as well. For me, I liked the lower cost of the interlock, the flexibility to choose any circuit in the house to power (or not) and when. If I happen to be away, I didn't need or want an automatic transfer switch and an auto-start generator set. But that's just me.


Although I haven't used my motor home gen-set yet, I do have considerable experience running my home on a 7.5kW 120/240 generator, a few of the times were for over a week as we live at literally the end of the line. The house is all electric, including a 80 gallon Rheem heat pump water heater (uses only 840 watts in "eco-mode), and a heat pump HVAC with a soft start.



I got an Emporia energy monitor system and installed it in my panelboard and I love it. This allows me to monitor usage of 16 circuits while at home or away, so I pretty much know how much each circuit breaker is expected to draw from the generator. Sadly, the Emporia system is cloud based, so take good notes because it's not available to you when the Internet is down at the house.



Even though the 7.5kW generator will start and run the heat pump for the house, it's marginal as the generator is fully loaded at that point.


The reason I want to be able to use the motor home as the power source in the future is because that generator is SOOO much quieter than than the screaming contractor gen-set I am currently using. And, the motor home has a 130 gallon diesel tank.



Edit: I do need to check the motor home generator set to see if it's just 30 amp single ended -- that could be a deal breaker for me.


Off topic question: dhshultz: Know much about submarines ordune goons?

Allen

[gwb2020]

You can purchase a 9500 watt generator for about $1000 from Amazon (made in China). It will have 240V output. One powers my entire house including a 4T AC unit. I had a breaker installed for this unit. (upper right side) It is usually off. I must remember to turn the main breaker off and this breaker on to power the house. Has been working great for power interruptions for the past 3 years. One outage was for almost a week. Mine is dual power - gas and propane.

[Solo_RV_Guy]

Originally Posted by Ghost

I have a 7kw Onan/Cummins genset installed in my rig.

I am curious to know if there is a method by which I can use it to run my home during a power outage.

Anyone done this?

If so - was Cummins able to provide you with a power outlet panel? Lockout switch?

Thanks,

Kent

I haven't read the whole thread...

This comes up about 3, maybe 4 times a year. There are HOURS of reading pleasure already on the forum. I suggest a search to find out what you already know and what you will need more help with.

If you need to power your whole house, your RV generator is insufficient, end of story. Buy a whole house emergency generator and have it installed by a licensed contractor/electrician. If you need to only power a refrigerator, maybe a freezer, and space heater, run extension cords from the RV into the house; crack a window and stuff the gap with a towel.

DO NOT make a direct connection between your RV generator and house electrical system without a professionally installed transfer / isolation switch. Period.

[plumber64]

Anything can be done, but "should be" done is another matter. MH's are meant to be lived in, not to power another house or RV.

[Phallon]

Originally Posted by Alpine36

It can be done, but you’re only getting one leg of 120v. Aside from the transfer switching requirements, some re-arranging of house circuit breakers will likely be in order.
During our last major power outage we simply ran an extension cord out of the Coach basement power outlet to the house for a couple lights and the fridge/freezer. We just stayed in the coach, with all the creature comforts of home. If you experience frequent power outages consider investing in the appropriate generator with auto start and ATS, professionally installed. That way your covered if the coach is not home…
Please do not consider internet advice involving suicide cords or manually back feeding service panels. The IBEW thanks you.

I agree. Suicide cables have that name for a reason. I have one & have used it a couple times. It scares me every time I touch it. I absolutely know what im doing & its still a bad idea. I have a 400@ generator disconnect & triple check it before hooking up the RV generator to back feed the house. I only use it if we are in the middle of a freeze or blizzard & need to keep the gas furnace running. If it were just keeping frifges & freezers running I'd stick with extension cords.

I have a huge generator to hook up to the PTO shaft on my tractor but that's problematic to setup. It also outputs 3 phase & I have yet to make the proper adapter to get 2 phase. It's also neutral bonded at the generator, which isn't correct for a standby generator.

I'd love to have a 220v generator in the RV that could run the well pump but thats not ever likely to happen. I'd run the proper wiring across the house to the generator disconnect from the RV pad if I got one.

[Captain8]

My home came with a manual transfer switch and 2 separate panels one for genny and other for outlets that aren't necessary. I tried a 11.5k 240v genny and it wasn't enough to start my homes AC (which had a genny switch) although I have a water furnace geothermal so maybe it's different than others.

I considered doing this since I have a 20k genny on my coach. But the issue is I don't think they make any connections over 50amps so genny size doesn't matter since it's limited, unless you manually wire something in.

Also if your powers out at home and you have your RV there, why not just stay in the RV until it comes back on?

[Phallon]

Originally Posted by Captain8

Also if your powers out at home and you have your RV there, why not just stay in the RV until it comes back on?

Because the pipes in my house will freeze in the winter without heat. The 5th wheel will be winterized that time of year.

[Surf Fisher]

Originally Posted by Captain8

Also if your powers out at home and you have your RV there, why not just stay in the RV until it comes back on?

Originally Posted by Phallon

Because the pipes in my house will freeze in the winter without heat. The 5th wheel will be winterized that time of year.

Plus, some municipalities (like mine) do NOT allow anyone living in a RV on your property. It has to be parked away from the front of the house, side or back, with no services, electric, water or sewer hooked to the RV. However, when we are parked at our winter home in Florida I do break the one rule and always have my 50 amp RV service hooked to my coach to keep the chassis and house batteries fully charged.

[Ghost]

I found a new in the box Honda 6.5KW gas genset on Craigs List for a grand.

Installed soft start on HVAC 3 ton unit.

Wired a 30 AMP plug into the 200 AMP home breaker panel, which allows me to pick and choose what circuits to run.

Yes, of course I have a lock out plate so nobody gets killed working on the power company lines. DUH!

Amazingly I can power my entire home with this fairly small genset.

The HVAC soft start is the real McCoy. Totally impressed. Genset doesn't even hiccup when the HVAC kicks in.

One strange thing to note - The GFCI on the Honda kept tripping until we disconnected the ground wire in the 30 amp receptacle... Floating ground..

[bpu699]

Originally Posted by Ghost

I found a new in the box Honda 6.5KW gas genset on Craigs List for a grand.

Installed soft start on HVAC 3 ton unit.

Wired a 30 AMP plug into the 200 AMP home breaker panel, which allows me to pick and choose what circuits to run.

Yes, of course I have a lock out plate so nobody gets killed working on the power company lines. DUH!

Amazingly I can power my entire home with this fairly small genset.

The HVAC soft start is the real McCoy. Totally impressed. Genset doesn't even hiccup when the HVAC kicks in.

One strange thing to note - The GFCI on the Honda kept tripping until we disconnected the ground wire in the 30 amp receptacle... Floating ground..

We have the same. Bought a 10,000w gas generator. Installed a transfer switch with a breaker panel powering the important stuff: furnace, well, sump, fridges, etc.

All in, <$2000 if you can do the electrical yourself. Works great.

[Ghost]

I opted to go the portable genset route instead.

I picked up a new in the box Honda 7.5k gas genset off of Craigs List for $1200.00.

Had an electrician wire up a 30 amp outside plug.

He also installed a soft start on our outside 4-ton HVAC unit.

When I need to run the genset, I turn off the breaker from street power and the breaker on our 200-amp distribution panel, connect 30-amp cord from genset to house, start the genset, let it warm up a bit then turn house main breaker back on.

The Honda 7.5KW does indeed power our entire home. The soft start on the HVAC is key - it reduces starting surge radically. Electrician was very impressed. It is a different brand from what he is used to installing and stated the Soft-Start is far more efficient.

I have yet to install the lock-out mechanism which I will. I ordered the wrong one so have to order another. Just so I don't have a brain fart in the middle of the night when still half-asleep. This lock-out is critical for lineman safety. Don't want to blow someone off a power line because I am sending power back onto the grid.

If things become dire, we can always move into the motorhome and use that genset

Thanks again everyone for your input.

Hope y'all had a Merry Christmas and wish you a prosperous New Year!