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Old 01-02-2017, 01:48 PM   #1
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Exclamation RV Slide Opened Itself While Driving!

The immediate issue is over, but could use some help figuring it out. As the title says, I had the main slideout open itself while driving down the interstate at 65 mph. Luckily, I was able to address the situation safely.

But, I'm in the process of debugging and could use some outside assistance to help me fill in some gaps here.

Over the weekend, we experienced some cold weather. I mean, Floridian cold weather, so go figure. But, it did get into the mid-30's. Only mention it because it is one thing which was different that could have affected the slide out control module. I don't know.

When leaving campground, the slide wouldn't move. I ran the engine for a few minutes then re-tried and was able to get it in.

Next stop, experienced strange issue where the switch for the rear slideout would move the FRONT slideout. After some head scratching, I uplugged the control board and re-plugged it and was able to extend the rear slide. Then, when leaving, it all worked OK.

Then, on the way home on the interstate, the main slide motor engaged and extended the slide while traveling. Made for some real drama. Also observed was that the house battery was bulged and hot and smoking a bit. NOT GOOD.

So, unplugged it immediately. Used another battery to suck the slide in on the side of the road then drove back with everything unplugged.

This morning, I replaced the defective battery.

I've also just ordered a new slide out control board. It is located right in the battery compartment and looks to be a simple swap out job. Will do that once I get it in the mail.

But, there's some knowledge gaps I can't figure out here...

(1) How did the slide extend despite the built in ignition safety? There's not supposed to be power to the motors when the main engine is running. Yet, it happened. If the circuitry for that is on the control board, then I guess it'll get replaced. But, that seems like a fragile safety system! One little relay or something goes bad and the slide could just extend like that while traveling?! That makes me nervous because it was so unpredictable.

(2) Could any of this fry my battery? It seems unrelated, but wow, that's some interesting timing.

In terms of info, this is all electric slide (no hydraulics). It is a 2002 Holiday Rambler Vacationer. 2 slides. W22 chassis, for what it's worth.
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Old 01-02-2017, 02:06 PM   #2
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I don't have an electric slide, or the same model as you, but it almost sounds to me like some kind of electrical short. That might explain the battery getting fried. You might want to try to find out if that's the case before you fry the new one.
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Old 01-02-2017, 02:14 PM   #3
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Interesting dilemma. I've had awnings pop out when driving but never the slide!

Regarding your #1, on my coach, the safety switch is tied into the transmission being in gear, NOT the engine running. If fact, many times I have to start the engine to ensure I have the amps to pull in the slide out.

To theorize about what would need to fail, at the same time, if it were NOT the control board:
- extend/retract switch pressed on extend
- trans/engine safety switch reading Park

So it's unlikely that those two inputs failed - more likely the control board shorted in such a way to open the slide AND suck a ton of amps from your battery. Before you connect the new control board, you should test the inputs with a multimeter to make sure there is not a short.

Good luck!
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Old 01-02-2017, 02:21 PM   #4
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Could get pretty scary. Last March we were crossing the Cumberland Gap on I70 in a blizzard when we came up on a coach with both slides out. He was running on the shoulder but stuck out into traffic, and only going about 30 mph. Traffic was moving a lot faster and the vis was not good at all. I wonder if they came out while on the road?

I wonder if he made it over the mountain?
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Old 01-02-2017, 02:30 PM   #5
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I think Mr. RVTHERE pretty much nailed this one. I'd like to add this about running your slides. Out of spec voltage is the enemy of most electronics. Running your electric slides on the battery alone is an unwise practice. You'll almost always be providing your electronics and motors with lower than optimal voltage. I try to always have the chassis alternator online when moving my slides. And, at least on my coach, there is a significant delay after engine start before the alternator comes online. After start, I wait until the voltmeter jump from 12.X volts to 13.X and then I know the alternator is online providing plenty of amps and rock solid voltage for my slides. Then and only then do I move those big heavy suckers around!
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Old 01-02-2017, 03:01 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVThere View Post
So it's unlikely that those two inputs failed - more likely the control board shorted in such a way to open the slide AND suck a ton of amps from your battery. Before you connect the new control board, you should test the inputs with a multimeter to make sure there is not a short.
OK, I'm a little ignorant on this kind of thing, and currently working on getting a crash course. But...

How do I test the inputs with the multimeter?

At the control board, there is a big wad of wires attached to a plug, and that plug goes into the receptacle on the control board. The wires are wrapped up in a plastic hose, and I don't know what color wire in there does what.

So, how would I test for a short?
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Old 01-02-2017, 03:05 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f14av8r View Post
I think Mr. RVTHERE pretty much nailed this one. I'd like to add this about running your slides. Out of spec voltage is the enemy of most electronics. Running your electric slides on the battery alone is an unwise practice. You'll almost always be providing your electronics and motors with lower than optimal voltage. I try to always have the chassis alternator online when moving my slides. And, at least on my coach, there is a significant delay after engine start before the alternator comes online. After start, I wait until the voltmeter jump from 12.X volts to 13.X and then I know the alternator is online providing plenty of amps and rock solid voltage for my slides. Then and only then do I move those big heavy suckers around!
I can't do that because of the ignition relay switch. My rig is designed so that the slides can't move if the engine is running.

Hence my confusion because that' exactly what the heck happened.
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Old 01-02-2017, 03:22 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drisley View Post
OK, I'm a little ignorant on this kind of thing, and currently working on getting a crash course. But...

How do I test the inputs with the multimeter?

At the control board, there is a big wad of wires attached to a plug, and that plug goes into the receptacle on the control board. The wires are wrapped up in a plastic hose, and I don't know what color wire in there does what.

So, how would I test for a short?
Sometimes (like on my Norcold refrig circuit board) there are letters on the board like '12v' or 'GND' which you can associate with a wire/connection on the harness to test for a short.

Other times, I've been blessed with a wiring diagram which provides a hint as to what should be hot or not. You'll usually find a diagram label on the access cover if it's there. My basement AC unit had one like that.

Strange that you have the engine safety switch and not a transmission safety switch. Have you tried running the generator when moving the slides to make sure you have the amps you need?
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Old 01-02-2017, 03:29 PM   #9
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Here's a video that may help show you what to look for:

https://youtu.be/WJrAvBf2DS8
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Old 01-02-2017, 05:10 PM   #10
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There are multiple types of slide outs
Hydraulic. Normally the valves are CLOSED when the slide is not supposed to move.

Gear driven, Sweintek or rack and pinion Power Gear.. An electric brake on the motor can fail, or you might have manually released it

Cable cars (Accu-Slide)

On mine there is a lock bar that makes SURE it does not extend without permission.
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Old 01-02-2017, 06:14 PM   #11
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It isn't a power issue. With all the wonkiness, it's pretty clearly defective circuity and/or a short.
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Old 01-13-2017, 01:00 PM   #12
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To follow up on this, I replaced the slide-out control board today and everything seems to work just fine now. Also replaced the house battery, which was clearly messed up and in the same compartment. But, everything back to normal except for the slideout trim piece that got ripped off by the driver seat. :/ So, will need to re-attach.

Still not comforting that an electrical issue caused the slide out to bypass the ignition safety like that and open while driving.
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