RV Toilets; 4-bolt to 2-bolt Conversions, Part 2
Part 1 explained how to install an overlay flange so you can line closet bolts properly for a 2-bolt toilet. There is another way if you want to do the install quickly, without waiting for a new flange to arrive. Lag bolts.
The OEM flange is plastic and can be drilled. The subfloor is plywood, so attaching the commode with lag screws is a quick, easy, option. In my case, two of the eight retaining screws happened to be at exactly 3-9.
Get two lag screws of the same diameter, but 1/2" longer than the original screws (photo 1) Attach commode with them and you're done setting the toilet.
NOTE; sit on the toilet and rock a bit in order to fully seat the gasket, then tighten the screws a bit more if needed.
Now to the water supply. For whatever reason, our 2-bolt commode has water supply and foot pedal on the opposite side of the OEM toilet, so some changes have to be made.
Option 1 is to get conversion kits for silly amounts of money. Option 2 is to DIY with simple things from the hardware store. This is about option 2.
Buy a 12" or 16" faucet supply hose. It will have female ends, so you'll get a threaded nipple to install in one end. This will give you the conversion without........without.........cutting or affecting the OEM supply. (photos 2 and 3 show the parts, including plumber's tape for the threads)
Turn the OEM line so it runs along the back wall, screw in the nipple, connect the toilet to the flange, and screw the other water line to the toilet.
Tighten snugly by hand, turn on the water and flush/fill the commode.
Watch for leaks and tighten until the leaks stop. Over-tightening doesn't help you.
You have just converted for about $6 in materials (less if you don't use SS braided supply line.
Besides saving you several $20 bills in conversion kits, you've saved a lot of time. Time to R&R the toilet and convert the plumbing; about 45 minutes, taking it slow and easy.
Rick and Sandy
2003 American Eagle, 59K miles