RV turns on but keeps shutting down???

[Chieftain27]

The other day i drove 15 minutes down the road to the store in my 1986 Chevy p30 454 engine(carburetor). On the way back I made it to the main camp ground road and it shut down and I had to pull over it took 30 mins of attempts and spraying starter fluid to get it going. This has happened in the past but it never took this long nor did I need starter fluid. Fast forward to today I try and make it to the store and I barely make it out of the campground and I was stuck on the side of the road for hours attempting to start my motor home. I got gas in a can and had to many times poor gas into the carburetor with starter fluid to get it going. It didn’t make it all the way back which was only 2 miles in one try. I had to do this three times to make it back. I even had to hold the choke down sometimes Or rapidly like a maniac push the gas pedal up and down so it wouldn’t shut down and constantly push the gas pedal even when breaking just to ensure it stayed running. Now when I look in the choke and push the gas pedal no gas was squirting out. I’m not sure if it’s my fuel pump or what... I full time and have until Friday to figure this out as I’m at a state park which has a 2 week stay limit.

[SKP Kirk]

It sounds like the engine is not getting fuel. Have you checked the fuel lines or the fuel pump? That engine has the fuel pump that is on the engine and pulls fuel from the tank so if there are any rubber hose connections, those could be getting soft and collapsing.

[Bob_C]

Buy a fuel pump.......

[Ndrorder]

When you prime with gas or either, does it start only to stall shortly after? This would be a fuel problem and Kirk has good advice.


If you can hear it fire, but it never quite takes or it only fires a few cylinders, I'd blame that on ignition. I'd guess ignition control module which most big box parts stores can test if it is off the vehicle.

[Bob_C]

On those, the ign control module is in the distributor......a pic would help with whether or not it has a block mounted fuel pump or a in the tank type....if it's a block type, after the fuel pump is removed, under the hole where it was mounted there'll be a pipe plug you'll have to remove....when you pull the plug, be ready to catch the fuel pump drive rod.....wipe it off good and we always used grease to coat that rod to hold it up in place so that the fuel pump would fit back in.....

[Chieftain27]

Originally Posted by SKP Kirk

It sounds like the engine is not getting fuel. Have you checked the fuel lines or the fuel pump? That engine has the fuel pump that is on the engine and pulls fuel from the tank so if there are any rubber hose connections, those could be getting soft and collapsing.

I have not checked yet. I plan on tomorrow as the engine was hot, and so was I. We enjoyed the lake as soon as we plugged in. It was a miracle we made it back.

[Chieftain27]

Originally Posted by bob caldwell

Buy a fuel pump.......

I figured this might be the ultimatum but had to be sure.

[Chieftain27]

Originally Posted by Ndrorder

When you prime with gas or either, does it start only to stall shortly after? This would be a fuel problem and Kirk has good advice.


If you can hear it fire, but it never quite takes or it only fires a few cylinders, I'd blame that on ignition. I'd guess ignition control module which most big box parts stores can test if it is off the vehicle.

Hmm your question is very complex and mechanical. This is my first carb engine let alone first vehicle I’ve ever done so much mechanical work to myself. I’m learning as I go.
Where would that be located?
Also when pressing the gas pedal and cranking sometimes it would never fire unless I sprayed starter fluid and it would fire but quickly stumble. It took a few pours of gas to finally get it to crank on and stay on but like I mentioned it shut off three more times and I had to repeat everything all over again to make it back to camp.

[twinboat]

Don't know if this applies to your year, but some only turn on the fuel pump if oil pressure is detected.

Check oil and check oil pressure switch wires.

[Chieftain27]

Originally Posted by bob caldwell

On those, the ign control module is in the distributor......a pic would help with whether or not it has a block mounted fuel pump or a in the tank type....if it's a block type, after the fuel pump is removed, under the hole where it was mounted there'll be a pipe plug you'll have to remove....when you pull the plug, be ready to catch the fuel pump drive rod.....wipe it off good and we always used grease to coat that rod to hold it up in place so that the fuel pump would fit back in.....

https://app.photobucket.com/u/Chieftain2727
Thanks!

[Chieftain27]

Originally Posted by bob caldwell

On those, the ign control module is in the distributor......a pic would help with whether or not it has a block mounted fuel pump or a in the tank type....if it's a block type, after the fuel pump is removed, under the hole where it was mounted there'll be a pipe plug you'll have to remove....when you pull the plug, be ready to catch the fuel pump drive rod.....wipe it off good and we always used grease to coat that rod to hold it up in place so that the fuel pump would fit back in.....

So I found my fuel pump located under the passenger side. It’s a mechanical fuel pump https://www.autozone.com/external-en...99_737775_2391 Do you know if this one has the rod you mentioned? Also I started my rig today no problem just to check things out. When looking down the choke and pumping the gas I’m getting a really nice stream of gas squirting out. My right side is not as strong of a solid squirt but it still looks sufficient. I will attach a photo of the streams of gas https://instagram.com/p/CFKnSd4jwz-/ . Also when I was stuck on the side of the road yesterday I never once got a squirt of gas into the carb when pushing the gas pedal. Do you still think my fuel pump is the culprit? Could it be a vapor lock issue? Like I said this has happened in the past but I’ve always been able to get back on the road within less then 10 minutes and not experience this problem again.

[Chieftain27]

Originally Posted by SKP Kirk

It sounds like the engine is not getting fuel. Have you checked the fuel lines or the fuel pump? That engine has the fuel pump that is on the engine and pulls fuel from the tank so if there are any rubber hose connections, those could be getting soft and collapsing.

So I found my fuel pump located under the passenger side. Fuel lines are good. It’s a mechanical fuel pump https://www.autozone.com/external-en...99_737775_2391 Do you know if this one has the rod you mentioned? Also I started my rig today no problem just to check things out. When looking down the choke and pumping the gas I’m getting a really nice stream of gas squirting out. My right side is not as strong of a solid squirt but it still looks sufficient. I will attach a photo of the streams of gas https://instagram.com/p/CFKnSd4jwz-/ . Also when I was stuck on the side of the road yesterday I never once got a squirt of gas into the carb when pushing the gas pedal. Do you still think my fuel pump is the culprit? Could it be a vapor lock issue? Like I said this has happened in the past but I’ve always been able to get back on the road within less then 10 minutes and not experience this problem again.

[Bob_C]

Yes, you have the fuel pump push rod.....since you don't have a way with a gauge on the fuel line to check pressure, I'd be putting a pump on it.....look at the grief you've already had....as a redneck way of holding the push rod in place, toothpaste would work.....and so would a little wheel bearing grease....

[Alpine36]

Buy a quality name brand fuel pump, such as Carter, ACDelco, and don't forget to replace the little paper fuel filter at the 1" fuel inlet fitting on your QJet carb. Likely there's an inline filter somewhere before the fuel pump also, find and change that too.
Also, the early GM hei distributors were notorious for the little pick up coil (pole piece) wires breaking, they flex with the vacuum advance. A new or reman distributor is cheap insurance, since the doghouse is already removed. Like the ghecko says, 15 minutes could save you a ton of money.

Retired GM Goodwrench driveability tech, 1977-1992.