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Old 01-21-2023, 05:08 PM   #1
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Samsung RF 18 quit

Well it seems like my RF 18 quite. Defrosted the Evap coil and now it seems the control panel above the doors aren’t wanting to reboot. It’s just about 8yrs old. It has worked well then just last evening it was not cooling anymore. I got it defrosted using a hairdryer. I notice this inside the compartment today after returning from the Tampa Show. It’s been turned off all day but now won’t reboot. I don’t think I want another RF 18 even though it’s my second one with two different coaches. Other FP what are other recommendations out there from others. I have a MSW Inverter Click image for larger version

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Old 01-21-2023, 07:03 PM   #2
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Old 01-21-2023, 07:28 PM   #3
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You might want to look this thread over as the OP specifically references the RF18 and MSW inverters. It only has 11 postings. Posting #8 explains alot.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f59/resi...er-378921.html

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Old 01-21-2023, 07:40 PM   #4
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Here's a link on how to try and run diagnostics on the RF18, you'll have to scroll down the page to the correct model


SAMSUNG's Digital World - Support


Maybe you can get the code to come up.
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Old 01-22-2023, 06:26 AM   #5
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Jim thank you for that link it is a great source of info for my particular issue. With all the YouTube searches and videos none mentioned this link? When I returned today from Tampa show I stared looking at things again, unplugging and replugging things back in. I thought the display was bad because I had some weird display showing and it would not go into Salesman mode on/off. I think now it was displaying the codes mentioned in your link but didn’t know at the time, and I didn’t really know how to bring them up using the sequence of buttons? I had the unit turned off all day yesterday while gone and was hoping it would possibly reset. The refrigerator came alive after awhile with no apparent input from me? I believe it could be a defrost sensor or something. I’m a little hesitant on pushing the buttons to bring up a code now that it is working like it should but I would sure like to know if a sensor is bad before it happens again with all the food is back in there. I did learn something VERY USEFUL when I stopped by a refrigerator appliance center yesterday. You can use a magnet along the top of the box where the door closes up against, look at your door and you will see the magnet built into the top of the door. The magnet fools the system thinking the door is shut and it will allow the fan to run. With the door open the Evap Fan will not run at all making you think the fan is bad. Run the magnet along the top until the compartment light goes off and it will run as if the door is closed. So anyway I’ll check back if I get the nerve to try and pull a code while everything is working ok. I’m afraid however it is working ok maybe temporarily until it freezes up again. Photo shows the magnet technique. Click image for larger version

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Old 01-22-2023, 07:25 AM   #6
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Well, at least you know the fridge is working (can work).

I know that earlier models had a problem with freezing up and the defrost not really taking care of the problem. There are even kits out there to add some metal to the defrost coils (?)
You can also force a defrost, which would melt the ice and improve cooling.





I had a recent problem with my Frigidaire fridge in the house. It quit making ice. There was nothing in the manual or their website on how to force a defrost cycle but after a couple hours of internet searching I found how to do it, I had to press the (+) & (-) on the display at the same time and it forces defrost, the display will show DF. That worked, fixed the problem.



So I did a search for Samsung and found this
https://www.unitedservicers.com/2017...refrigeration/
I'd do a couple more searches to confirm this it the correct method.



Good Luck
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Old 01-22-2023, 08:16 AM   #7
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Yep on my other unit I installed that revised version of the aluminum piece hung down into the drain to help defrost it. Did you do a little investigation on how to check these components out.
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Old 01-22-2023, 08:38 AM   #8
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At some point I watched a video, they sell the kits, You have to remove the plastic pieces at the back of the refrigerator. Once the cooling coil is exposed you can see if the pieces are added. I've never had a problem (YET) so I didn't bother to look but I know the sell them, they actually sell kits that extend the drain hose if you have a water buildup problem.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=samsung+R...ref=nb_sb_noss


https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Samsung...acement/136939
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Old 01-22-2023, 09:48 AM   #9
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Yes I’ve installed that one pc shaped like a T it extends down into the hole further. I need to find out the proper ohms reading for the htr element because it could be bad. Right now disconnected it reading 103ohms. Last yr during the hotter days I never had a problem with icing, now I am? I feel either the htr is bad or the sensor that brings it on is bad. The sensor is reading open currently. I feel the sensor might be bad. I did get a code reading doing the check procedure and it was coding a R-1g defrost htr error? The ohms were 103 on that htr.
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Old 01-22-2023, 03:00 PM   #10
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Samsung RF 18 quit

I plan on calling Samsung tomorrow to find out what the ohms should be on the defrost htr. and to verify the 4-5 ohms on the defrost sensor🤞
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Old 01-22-2023, 05:40 PM   #11
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All good info, keep us posted.
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Old 01-23-2023, 05:59 AM   #12
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Samsung RF 18 quit

That magnet trick is something I haven’t seen online and it is a heck of a good tip. It’s needed to see if your fan is running.
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Old 01-23-2023, 05:05 PM   #13
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Jus looked at my Samsung fridge. Sure enough, a magnet is bonded to the door top.
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Old 01-30-2023, 01:00 PM   #14
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What was the final diagnosis/outcome on your Samsung fridge???
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