Community Forums

IC2 · 06-01-2016, 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhiskeyRiver

Thanks for that IC2..
Following the measure twice & cut once rule, I have measured 2 times on a level concrete pad hooked up, although I don't have to cut as the front vent is there as was yours. I also don't want to go over the 13'6" height. The 5er is an 09 Keystone Everest and the height is listed as 12'8". It was 12'8" at the top of A/C in the back to the pad. The front vent, I have a Maxx Air cover and from the top of it to the concrete pad is 12' 6". From the top of the Maxx to the roof is 9 3/4", so removing it and adding a 13" A/C should raise the top 3 1/4", making my front somewhere around 12'10". Even off by a couple of inches I should still be well under the 13'6".
One more question.. Is the electrical box you are talking about replacing the one that is pre wired near the vent. I have not checked the box, only checked with meter to make sure there is power there from the circuit breaker and there is....

Sounds like you have the height numbers figured out so it just boils down to what you need/want

.

The box on ours is the prewired box. You will have to pull it to feed the wire to the a/c between the roof and ceiling through the truss. While mine was junk, yours may be fine, not broken and especially if you use wire nuts. If you decide that a 20 amp receptacle as a terminal strip is the way to go, that $1.47 and a bit bigger box is my recommended way. Oh, and that box is not covered by the a/c panel - it sits in plain sight.

Quote:

Originally Posted by barmcd

That unit is a also a heat pump right?

The one I'm using is a straight a/c with an add on heat strip. I chose to not go the extra bucks (~$200 IIRC) for the heat pump version.

TomBr · 06-01-2016, 11:11 PM

The heat strip is 5600 btu, or about 1500 watts-they pull somewhere arounf 12.5 amps, if I remember correctly.

IC2 · 06-02-2016, 05:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomBr

The heat strip is 5600 btu, or about 1500 watts-they pull somewhere around 12.5 amps, if I remember correctly.

I stand corrected - and knew that but 'lost' my mind somehow.

Thanks for the kick in the seat massage

WhiskeyRiver · 06-23-2016, 02:25 PM

IC2, or anyone else that has removed the vent, I have another question.
Getting ready to install the A/C, I scrubbed the roof and removed the Maxx Air vent cover. I also have an abundance of goop/sealer that Keystone poured on at the factory. My question is did you use a hair dryer or heat gun and scraper (plastic) to remove it. Or use something like Acetone, Alcohol or Lacquer Thinner to soften it. What did you use for the final cleaning or wipe to make the gasket sit & seal on a clean rubber roof.
Thanks for any help.....

IC2 · 06-23-2016, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhiskeyRiver

IC2, or anyone else that has removed the vent, I have another question.
Getting ready to install the A/C, I scrubbed the roof and removed the Maxx Air vent cover. I also have an abundance of goop/sealer that Keystone poured on at the factory. My question is did you use a hair dryer or heat gun and scraper (plastic) to remove it. Or use something like Acetone, Alcohol or Lacquer Thinner to soften it. What did you use for the final cleaning or wipe to make the gasket sit & seal on a clean rubber roof.
Thanks for any help.....

Yours must have been built one other day when the Keystone factory had a surplus of sealer and chose your trailer

Once I peeled through to remove the vent frame, I 'dug' it up very carefully with a rounded corner 1.5" flexible putty knife, being very careful not to gouge or tear the roof membrane. Don't expect to do this in 5 minutes. If I had to put a time frame on removing this goo, it would be in the 90 minute time frame for that ~14x14 hole.

As far as final cleaning, it may not be necessary but acetone, such as suggested by Eternabond on their instruction sheet will work. I wouldn't use lacquer thinner though alcohol might work. I was lucky in that I was able to get 100% off and a bit of soap and water final cleaning did mine. The attached a/c gasket will cover that area and if there is a bit of goo left, and it isn't a raised glob, you should not have a leak. A note - that 40-50 in pound torque(3.5-4 lb ft) is pretty optimistic as the gasket barely compresses while the instruction sheet suggest it should be about 50%. Just don't go way beyond reason.

Ours has seen a couple frog strangler rains and so far no sign of water.

Good luck - the project is well worth the effort

dwhit · 06-23-2016, 03:46 PM

I want to do the same thing to the garage of an XLR. I have two a/c's...the one in the bedroom is unusable when the room is occupied. Sounds like an open-pipe Harley running at 2000R's...the garage needs an addt'l unit as it's a big/tall room.

WhiskeyRiver · 06-24-2016, 05:47 AM

OK IC2, thanks for that..
10-4 on the Keystone surplus sealer. Although Keystone and probably most manufactures tell the vent crew or roof crew or who ever adds the sealer to make sure it is sealed. "we don't want a rig leaking because of 25 cents worth of sealant" So I don't find any fault with the sealing procedure.
I will watch the gasket and torque carefully.
Thanks for your help. Doing the project after the holiday.

TQ60 · 06-24-2016, 08:03 AM

Place just the gasket on to see what it covers.

WD40 and other products are at the box stores fro removing the goo.

You might contact the manufacturer of the rv to confirm exactly what they used then contact the manufacturer of the product to see what they suggest as best product to use in your case.

A little work but may save a lot of wasted work with using wrong stuff.

IC2 · 06-24-2016, 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TQ60

Place just the gasket on to see what it covers.

WD40 and other products are at the box stores fro removing the goo.

You might contact the manufacturer of the rv to confirm exactly what they used then contact the manufacturer of the product to see what they suggest as best product to use in your case.

A little work but may save a lot of wasted work with using wrong stuff.

No chance that I would ever use something like WD40 on that EPDM rubber roof. Eternabond solvent and acetone are safe but really wont touch that Dicor type material beyond a final clean up. Concoctions like Goo Gone are just too aggressive as I've found several times on painted surfaces as it lifts the paint - instantly. As far as calling Keystone, the only ones that can tell you what the sealant might be - my experience is lotsa luck getting through or if you do, finding someone to 'commit' to much of anything.

I did it very simply on a warm roof - and it worked just fine with no 'miracle' products and without smearing it all over with a solvent.

As far as the gasket - it comes already attached to the new a/c, probably via a double sided tape. It is approximately 1" wide, ~16"x16" outside dimensions.

WhiskeyRiver · 07-19-2016, 12:58 PM

IC2, I installed the front A/C over the week end. The goop came off the vent flg easy, but really stuck to the rubber roof. There were 28 screws holding the vent to the roof. I have never seen a plastic box like was used for the pre wire. Had to drill hole in the box to run the wire to the A/C as there were no knock out holes & the wire came in from the back.
Now the problem for anyone that buys one of these newer Dometic A/C. This one was the Brisk II. Before installing the lower unit, after wiring I plugged it in and hit the "go" switch & nothing. You could hear a noise but nothing. I reached up inside and the fan or blower was frozen & not moving. I shut it down and went back up on the roof. Took the shroud off and removed the foam that covers just about the whole unit. The fan was hitting the foam, so I loosened it and moved it back on the shaft about 1/8th inch. Then it was hitting the foam in the back, so I could see where it was rubbing & took a knife and scrapped the foam and made enough room for the fan to run with out hitting it. They do make it fit very tight.I assume to keep the noise down. It is a lot less noisy than the original in the back, and does work well now that the fan can turn.. This may be the one in a million, don't know but they are really packed tight with the foam, just like they use for packing just about everything, but this is not packing, it is part of the unit used to make it quiet.

IC2 · 07-19-2016, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhiskeyRiver

IC2, I installed the front A/C over the week end. ..................

It sounds like you had a couple extra steps that I didn't encounter but it appears to a success anyhow.

As far as the power box - since mine was screwed up, I just replaced it anyhow.

Surprised that the foam was that tight but since these a/c's are now made in 'that' Far Eastern country, anything can happen. And will.

Not a bad job once you get the unit on the roof. Congratulations