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10-06-2009, 09:59 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Pikeville, NC
Posts: 1,775
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SHURflo 5700 latch problem/fix
I put in a SHURflo 5700 about three years ago.
I had to replace it twice because of the pump running continously. This newer version runs fine-- It has a one piece housing (vs the old two piece housings).
I have had the "latch" fittings- they hold the parts together- just "pop" off twice this summer/fall. Yesterday was the last straw. It floods three of my basement compartments at once and makes one heck of a mess. We were gone and the campground manager called me immediately. We came back in a few minutes, he had shut the water off already.
Here is a picture of the latch and my "fix"-----
I drilled one 1/8" hole in each ear of the latch and used two small nylon tie wraps to pull, and hold, the ears together after they are installed properly. I did this to all four of the joints used in the install.
I called SHURflo and asked if there was a new redesigned latch being used to keep the ears in place better-- like a flip over catch. He said "no". What happens he said, is if the parts are disasembled occassionally, they get worn or loose and that causes the "pop" outs I experienced--- ugh
I told him I might use aircraft safety wire to secure the fittings (replacing the plastic ties) when I get home-- .
I have never liked those fittings from the getgo- what's wrong with clamps?
__________________
Max H,
2002 Newmar Mountain Aire, 37', 3778, W-22, 8.1 Vortac, Ultra Power upgrade, CAI (cold air intake), Taylor wires, colder plugs, Koni shocks.
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10-06-2009, 02:55 PM
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#2
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Administrator in Memoriam
Appalachian Campers
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Buladean, NC
Posts: 8,126
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Good fix, thanks for sharing it.
__________________
'11 GMC Acadia SLT AWD
'11 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Extended Cab
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11-07-2009, 01:05 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 627
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Max,
Now if you can only find a way to make the 5.7 last more than a few months. I'm currently on my fourth.
Jack
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11-07-2009, 05:15 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Pikeville, NC
Posts: 1,775
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Jackm--
Here are several of my observations using this pump.
I'm on my third one, but this last one has been up and running well-- for a long time now (like two years). There is a pump adjustment screw on the very bottom of the pump. It can be abjusted slightly by turning the screw in a counterclock wise direction to eliminate continuous running. I also read recently somewhere on this forum that the switch used to turn the pump on must be the same one used to turn it off. I have replaced two of the three wall switches I have in my rig because I had trouble starting the pump occassionally. It works great now if I start the pump and turn it off at the same switch.
Good luck with yours--
__________________
Max H,
2002 Newmar Mountain Aire, 37', 3778, W-22, 8.1 Vortac, Ultra Power upgrade, CAI (cold air intake), Taylor wires, colder plugs, Koni shocks.
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11-07-2009, 08:40 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Buxton, North Dakota
Posts: 3,940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Max Hubrich
Jackm--
Here are several of my observations using this pump.
I'm on my third one, but this last one has been up and running well-- for a long time now (like two years). There is a pump adjustment screw on the very bottom of the pump. It can be abjusted slightly by turning the screw in a counterclock wise direction to eliminate continuous running. I also read recently somewhere on this forum that the switch used to turn the pump on must be the same one used to turn it off. I have replaced two of the three wall switches I have in my rig because I had trouble starting the pump occassionally. It works great now if I start the pump and turn it off at the same switch.
Good luck with yours--
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What switch you turn it on and off with shouldn't make a difference. What may be happening is that the three switch loop isn't using heavy enough cable for the high current demand of the pump. If you put a relay at the pump and feed the relay with direct #8 or #10 wire and use the switch loop to turn the relay on and off the problem should be solved.
__________________
2003 Winnebago Adventurer 38G F53/ V10 605 watts of Solar
1999 Winnebago Brave 35C F53V10 Handicap Equipped
1999 Jeep Cherokee, 1991 Jeep Wrangler Renegade and 2018 Chevrolet Equinox Diesel
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11-07-2009, 02:35 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Pikeville, NC
Posts: 1,775
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Hey John Hilley,
Sounds like a "done deal" to me . Where and what relay am I looking for. Number, name, a dealer or whatever, for the relay.
Appreciate it if you can provide the info--
Thanks,
__________________
Max H,
2002 Newmar Mountain Aire, 37', 3778, W-22, 8.1 Vortac, Ultra Power upgrade, CAI (cold air intake), Taylor wires, colder plugs, Koni shocks.
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11-08-2009, 12:08 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 627
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Max,
John is suggesting that its possible that the existing circuit isn't robust enough to handle the more powerful pump. A 12-volt relay will eliminates voltage drops, thus allowing the pump to provide full pressure and volume. You can purchase relays at Radio Shack or other electrical supply outlets. A 30 amp relay would be more than adequate. The relay would essentially be installed between your switches and your pump (next to your pump). The relay would be used to turn the pump on and off and your existing switches would be used to turn the relay off and on. The wiring from the relay to the switches should be no smaller than #10.
Jack
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