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Old 10-13-2014, 02:50 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by lhutter1 View Post
Right, so since the switch is allowing the temp is actually reach the 170 degree mark that the switch is specified to open at, it would appear that the switch would be working as it should. You are right though, the metal would surely be somewhat hotter than the exiting air. That would raise the question, is the switch designed to open at 170F actual heat exchanger temp or calculated exiting air temp? Please correct me if I'm looking at that wrong...

Thanks,
Lorne
The Suberban "limit switch" is a snap disc switch similar to these:
Designed to open if/when the temperature of the heat exchanger reaches 170F.
Mel
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Old 10-14-2014, 06:59 AM   #30
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I'll be heading out there this weekend and will try the external power supply. As for the limit switch, I think I will change it as a part of preventative maintenance, but it is switching at the time it is designed to (170F). If the switch didn't trip when it does, it would allow the heat exchanger temp to continue to rise and get hotter than designed and could potentially crack the heat exchanger. Part of me would be interested in jumping the switch out just to see how hot it would get without the limit switch, as it was still rising pretty quick when the switch cut the gas, but I don't want to risk wrecking it.

Something occurred to me last night... The previous owners definitely wintered and lived in our trailer, there was evidence everywhere. I have to wonder if they ran compressed natural gas instead of propane. One of the stove burners runs super hot with a high flame (more than I've seen on any stove in a home or RV), to the point that you need to run it at medium to keep from catching the stove on fire with a pot on top and our water heater is much louder than others that are comparable.

What if the previous owners got the orifices modified to run on CNG? The holes would be enlarged and would provide a much bigger flame if used with propane. I'm not sure how I could verify that though. Would there be any other telltales of gas conversion (different tank connection, different regulator at the tanks, etc...)? I may be wrong, but it could also be an interesting explanation for all of it. Worst case I may have to call the dealership I bought it from and see if they can contact the previous owners and ask them. I'd like to at least rule it out. The furnace has acted this way since we bought it last season.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Lorne
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Old 10-15-2014, 11:04 AM   #31
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...What if the previous owners got the orifices modified to run on CNG? The holes would be enlarged and would provide a much bigger flame if used with propane. I'm not sure how I could verify that though. Would there be any other telltales of gas conversion (different tank connection, different regulator at the tanks, etc...)? I may be wrong, but it could also be an interesting explanation for all of it. Worst case I may have to call the dealership I bought it from and see if they can contact the previous owners and ask them. I'd like to at least rule it out. The furnace has acted this way since we bought it last season.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Lorne
The "oversize" would explain your situation wouldn't it?

You might be able to get the orifice size for your furnace from Suburban and use drill bits (as go-no-go guage) to see if it's close. Or, just order a new orifice from your dealer or Suburban. I think the latter is what I'd do.
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Old 10-24-2014, 06:46 AM   #32
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Hey guys,

Well, we ended up with a bit of an emergency since my last post and ended up not having time to play with the furnace any further. Now we're closed up for the winter. At this point, with the slideouts in, I have no access to the furnace at all, so it looks like we'll have to re-visit this in spring... Thanks for all your comments!

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