Community Forums

memphisflyer · 03-20-2020, 06:01 PM

Hi friends. When I turn on the water heater gas switch it lights like normal but the igniter continues to fire (I hear the click). After about ten seconds the gas turns off and it does it again for three attempts. Stove is working normally so I tend to assume the gas pressure overall is fine. There is plenty of propane in the tanks. SInce it lights but the igniter contiues to fire, I'm wondering if there is some kind of device that tells the sytem that is has ignited and since it's not, the whole thing shuts off. I'm a pretty good trouble shooter but electricity and gas are my weakest places of knowledge. Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Old-Biscuit · 03-20-2020, 06:13 PM

Yes there is a 'device'.....it is the Spark Electrode
Not only does it provide the High Voltage spark for ignition of propane it is also used to provide pathway for 'Flame Proving' Signal to circuit board

Flame generates an AC current which is retrified into a DC current which circuit board is looking for......change in current is via spark electrode and ground

High voltage wire has to have clean tight connections
Electrode needs to be clean of soot/carbon
Electrode ceramic if cracked it will allow the signal to go to ground

Sometimes all items check good and a new electrode is required

*New electrode is $12 (Part #232258)------https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/...rode-232258%20

Sometimes it is a fault in the circuit board
*New board is $76 (Part #520814)------https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/...oard-520814%20

Flame Proving signal is just a few milliamps so easy for it to be stopped by bad/dirty/loose connections

Satrt with cleaning up electrode, connections and grounds

memphisflyer · 03-20-2020, 06:40 PM

Old-Biscuit this is exactly why I love thi forum. For those of us that aren't afraid to fix things and just need a little guidance, this is the perfect venue. Thanks for the troubleshooting steps. I'm assuming that replacing the board (if it's not the electrode) will require removing the unit. Or is there cover to remove without replacing? I'm not at my unit to put eyes on it at the moment. Again, thanks for the great help.

Martin
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Old-Biscuit · 03-20-2020, 06:53 PM

Circuit Board is typically mounted on backside (top) of WH Tank but can be wall mounted close to WH Tank also

'DEL' models Installation/User Manual
http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.co...ser-Manual.pdf

Exploded View...

Parts ---- https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/...el-tune-up-kit

memphisflyer · 03-21-2020, 11:32 AM

Ok. Replaced the electrode but still have same problem. New development though which is that electric side of heater not working either. With power on there is power at the connections for the switch outside on the heater. I’m very suspicious now that it’s the control board. However, I’ve had the bad luck before of having two separate issues at once to confuse everything. Will a bad element cause no power and therefore no light in the on switch inside? I’m assuming not but the element is an easy replacement. Planning on ordering the board to fix the gas issue and likely the electric one as well if you agree that a bad element is not the issue. Frustrating. Thanks again for the help.

Old-Biscuit · 03-21-2020, 04:14 PM

'DEL' Models use DC & AC for the electric element

12VDC goes from the Electric On/Off switch (inside RV) to DC Junction Box then to the DC Relay that then allows the 120VAC to go to the Electric On/Off Switch (outside compartment) then thur the set of t-stats and to element

So DC switch has to be ON
DC to Relay connection good (in junction box)

AC Switch has to be ON (CB NOT tripped)

High temp t-stat must not be tripped (Push to Reset---cover above gas valve---Left set for AC/Right set for GAS)
Element not burnt out/shorted

*Continuity tests with Tank drained and wires disconnected.

Testing between white & black terminals...No continuity---element bad

Testing between white terminal & element flange...HAS continuity---element short