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Old 10-24-2013, 08:16 PM   #15
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I'll wait til my 120/12V croaks and see how folks like whatever is new then. I may never see it fail.

What is the up-side to tankless?

You still need to wait for the hot water to go from the heater to the faucet, right?
Maybe it saves on propane. I use almost none as I almost always use 120V.
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Old 10-24-2013, 09:49 PM   #16
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We have a 10gal/16gal, dual heating (120v & Propane) water heater. It's a 10 gal tank which produces the equivalent of a 16 gal water heater. Never run out of hot water. Tank super heats water to about 155 - 160 degrees and has a 60/40 mixer valve to produce hot water to the tap at about 130 degrees. Further mixing is accomplished at the faucet to make the water comfortable. With it a dual element heating tank, it's has virtually an unending supply of hot water.
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Old 10-25-2013, 06:39 AM   #17
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I think most class As from the past 10 or so years will have a 10gal dual (LPG/elec) HWT. As mentioned, many high end diesels have HydroHot or AquaHot heating which combines a tankless HWT. Other than that, the switch to tankless has been quite slow although it is starting to be available on many lower end mhs as well.

IMO, it's simply because many owners / buyers don't like change and would rather keep what they know. We have a 10gal LPG/elec HWT but I do believe the tankless are better (provide continous hot water and are cheaper to run).
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Old 10-25-2013, 08:22 AM   #18
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When you are in a campground for the most part you pay a flat fee for the site and electric is included. Whey pay for the propane to heat the water when you have already paid for the electric as part of the camping fee. We have a 10 gal gas/electric. In the rare event the wife and I are both needing to take showers one right after the other. I usually take a navy shower or turn on the gas and electric. I have never ran out of hot water yet.
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Old 10-25-2013, 09:25 AM   #19
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When you are in a campground for the most part you pay a flat fee for the site and electric is included. Whey pay for the propane to heat the water when you have already paid for the electric as part of the camping fee. We have a 10 gal gas/electric. In the rare event the wife and I are both needing to take showers one right after the other. I usually take a navy shower or turn on the gas and electric. I have never ran out of hot water yet.
Same here. And unless you have a tankless at each faucet, you still wait for it to get there. We are always on 120 not LPG. So, no upside. Just bling. And expense.
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Old 10-25-2013, 11:53 AM   #20
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Another vote for electric is free and propane costs money. And unless you
have really thoughtless people showering, your won't have a problem
with tank type. We've done 5 back to back in about an hour and a half,
without ever having run out.
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Old 10-26-2013, 09:12 AM   #21
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This will solve all your hot water and heating problems:

Aqua-Hot Heating Systems for RV, UTV, RTV
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Old 10-26-2013, 04:16 PM   #22
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As I recall, an RV WH (tank-type) has a propane burner of about 10,000 btu capacity. PrecisionTemp makes both a tank-less WH and a hydronic system ("TwinTemp) similar to AquaHot). Both PrecisionTemp units use the same propane burner / heat exchanger unit, which is 55,000 btu capacity. So clearly they can produce a lot more hot water in a given amount of time than the tank-type units.

But I'd have to quibble with the statement that the hydronic units (AquaHot or TwinTemp) are "tank-less". At 55,000 btu they produce the "endless" hot water associated with tank-less, but they have a tank, which contains the boiler fluid (anti-freeze solution). A second heat-exchanger located inside the boiler tank transfers heat from the boiler fluid to the fresh water running through it to produce the "hot water".

Because the tank-less WH heats the water directly in the burner unit, it needs a flow sensor to tell it to turn on the burner, and requires a minimum water flow of about 0.4 gal/min to work at all. And if the source water is already warm (summer in hot climate) the unit will require a lot higher a flow rate than that to give uniform hot water temperature. This can be a serious problem, in my experience. The hydronic (and tank-type, obviously) units do not have this problem.

Another issue that affects the hyronic units and the new tank-type "extra-capacity" RV WHs (that heat the water to a higher temp and use a "mixer valve to produce safe 125 degree hot water, is that hard water can cause them to seize up, giving you just luke-warm water after the initial hot surge.

Finally, the tank-less are more problematic in cold weather use. When hot water isn't being demanded (overnight) they will never fire the burner, and are more vulnerable to freezing.

Ya pays your quarter and you takes your choice!
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Old 10-26-2013, 08:01 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockbit View Post
We have a 10gal/16gal, dual heating (120v & Propane) water heater. It's a 10 gal tank which produces the equivalent of a 16 gal water heater. Never run out of hot water. Tank super heats water to about 155 - 160 degrees and has a 60/40 mixer valve to produce hot water to the tap at about 130 degrees. Further mixing is accomplished at the faucet to make the water comfortable. With it a dual element heating tank, it's has virtually an unending supply of hot water.
This sounds like something I could switch to; what brand is your WH?
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Old 10-28-2013, 11:17 PM   #24
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This sounds like something I could switch to; what brand is your WH?
It's an Atwood, Model GE16TE
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Old 10-28-2013, 11:28 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Rockbit View Post
We have a 10gal/16gal, dual heating (120v & Propane) water heater. It's a 10 gal tank which produces the equivalent of a 16 gal water heater. Never run out of hot water. Tank super heats water to about 155 - 160 degrees and has a 60/40 mixer valve to produce hot water to the tap at about 130 degrees. Further mixing is accomplished at the faucet to make the water comfortable. With it a dual element heating tank, it's has virtually an unending supply of hot water.
With ours and the motor aid the water temp is the same as the engine coolant temp. That can be 200 or more. We have to be careful when we stop and we have never run out of hot water either. I usually run just the electric element when parked, then turn on the gas when needed for showers or laundry.
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Old 11-11-2013, 04:35 PM   #26
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We run out of hot water

Wow. After reading this section on hot water heaters, I am really wondering what is wrong with mine. I have a 2002 Travel Supreme MH. We heat our water with electric and propane. With both systems on we run out of hot water in a matter of a few minutes taking a shower. The electric does very little on its own. I have been considering adding a tankless heater in front of the hot water tank, but now realize maybe it is just not working properly? The manual I have is for a Suburban SW10. Any suggestions or comments appreciated.
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Old 11-11-2013, 09:34 PM   #27
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Wow. After reading this section on hot water heaters, I am really wondering what is wrong with mine. I have a 2002 Travel Supreme MH. We heat our water with electric and propane. With both systems on we run out of hot water in a matter of a few minutes taking a shower. The electric does very little on its own. I have been considering adding a tankless heater in front of the hot water tank, but now realize maybe it is just not working properly? The manual I have is for a Suburban SW10. Any suggestions or comments appreciated.
If you haven't been cleaning the interior of your heater regularly, the element might be covered with calcium causing it not to heat very well. I flush my heater twice a year to remove the calcium deposit that forms inside the heater.

Today my next door neighbor removed the heating element in his Suburban WH and the element was covered with about " of calcium. His water heater was making a hissing sound when it was heating the water. After cleaning the element the WH didn't make any more sound while heating the water.

Also, since you have a Suburban WH, you need to use an anode rod to prevent corrosion of the tank. No anode rod is needed in Atwood water heaters.
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Old 02-15-2015, 08:02 AM   #28
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I attempted to post a reply before I saw the Old Thread Warning.
I don't understand why this is considered an old thread when the last discussion posted was in November 2013.
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