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Old 05-28-2022, 04:25 AM   #1
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Toilet conversion or is this a crappy idea?

We are getting ready to take ownership of a Cedar Creek CCK that will be permanently located on our property, replacing an old Skyline Park Villa.

I would like to know if the petal flush toilets can be replaced by a standard residential toilet of any kind? If so is this a difficult process?

Thanks Iím advance.
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Old 05-28-2022, 06:03 AM   #2
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First of all there are 2 pees in crappy.
A residential toilet would require a tank mounted gravity flush to operate, the one I measured in the house the front of the seat is 28" from the wall. If you have the room I don't see why it wouldn't work but water usage may be much more than a pedal flush as you will have all or none when you hit the handle. The mounting systems are different as well.
What sewer/dump is involved? That extra water on each flush may be an issue.
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Old 05-28-2022, 06:34 AM   #3
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You want to know "if" you can replace an RV toilet with a residential toilet. The short answer is yes.

The long answer is with a lot of modifications and a completely different mindset on how you are going to use it.

First, the mounting flange is different. Either you need to cut the old flange off beneath the floor and plumb in the residential flange, (which may require dropping the black tank) or building up the floor under the toilet to accommodate the larger and longer residential flange.

Second, you can flush an RV toilet with as little as a cup of water. The minimum for a residential toilet is 1 1/2 gallons. An RV toilet uses gravity to just drop the waste into the black tank, whereas a residential toilet uses the pressure in the tank to flush through the S trap in the toilet base. That S trap is also the seal to keep air/fumes from coming up through the toilet. IF I was going to try this I would definitely buy a "power flush". They use water pressure in the standard toilet tank and use the 40-50 pounds of water pressure to "power flush". I had one in my house and loved it, but the only way to flush is to wait for it to fill and it uses the full 1 1/2 gallons of water. That's a lot of water in an RV.

Third, even with a residential toilet, you do not want to keep the black tank valve open as it still can build the dreaded "poop pyramid". And the extra water would mean emptying the black tank a lot more frequently.

Fourth. A residential toilet is a lot heavier than an RV toilet. It may or may not be an issue since you are not towing a lot, but the floor is not designed for extra weight and you may want to reinforce it.

Lastly. Unless you are in a climate that does not require winterizing, a residential toilet will be a lot more difficult to winterize and take a lot more antifreeze to do. And you want to make sure it is completely winterized or you will be replaceing it every year.

The only advantage I can think of is the extra water is beneficial to keeping the black tank clean. I always use a lot of water when I am parked in my seasonal sites on both ends of my seasons. Well, wait. One more advantage. Parts and repairs for a residential toilet are a lot easier to come by than for an RV toilet. And trust me. You will need to do repairs.

In the end, just because it can be done does not mean it should. It is a lot more than just unbolting the RV toilet and bolting in a residential toilet.

I would not do it.

But if you are willing to research the proper way to do it and can find a reason go for it. And keep us posted on how you did it and how you like it.
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Old 05-28-2022, 09:21 AM   #4
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The difference between my advice and the others? I've actually done this and have lived with it for almost 8 years. My RV hasn't imploded or exploded from it yet. I replaced a leaking vintage Traveler 910 in my self-converted bus conversion with a cheap contractor grade low gpf residential toilet (8/2014). It was cheaper and faster than getting parts. It also used about the same amount of water too. Now they have toilets that use even less water than the one I have, at a decent price. The toilet has the reservour tank on the rear. I live full time in my bus. I leave the black tank open (gasp!). No clogs. I used common window weatherstripping to seal the tank lid to the tank. It was sealed too well so I added a hollow tube to the seal so air will enter when the tank flushed. I put a shut off valve, just like in a house, to the tank inlet line so I can turn the water off while traveling. I leave the bowl with water in it. I've driven down roads, paved and dirt, without any splash out. I've turned my bus around in a rough pasture and in the desert scrub without splashing. I've even had the bus loaded/unloaded onto a low-boy flat bed trailer when it broke down once. No splash out even then. I put a flat bungee cord on the tank lid to it is held down while traveling. Since the toilet was installed, I've never had a clog. I used a foam "wax ring" on the standard residential toilet flange we had used to install the Traveler 910 with. DO'nt use a wax ring, spring for the foam one. I have also pulled the toilet twice (1 year & 4 years) and checked out the black tank. No build up. First time the toilet was pulled was to put a layer of exterior grade OSB on the floor. Second time the toilet was pulled was to put flooring down on the floor (The bus was converted "out of pocket money" and I lived in it at the same time). When not on full hookups (which I normally am on), I use a 4 wheeled tote to dump my black tank. I have a 30 gallon black tank. My tote is slightly larger than my waste tank. I planned it that way. When the toilet was first installed, I was hooked up to the park sewer with the valve closed. I flushed until the black tank was filled, keeping track of the number of flushes. Then I pulled the valve on the tank, closed it and did it again so I was certain how many flushes would fill the tank. BTW, the residentail toilet "burps" just like an RV toilet "burps" when the tank is full. When my toilet "burps", I can flush one more time. I don't. I put a note pad in the bathroom so we can mark down when we flush for those times when we are on the black tank. Like with any toilet replacement, you do have to measure to make sure the hole lines up. If it's off slightly, they have off set adapters in the plumbing section of Home Depot / Lowes that you can buy. Just make sure the toilet is seated well on the foam ring (you may have to sit on the toilet to get the foam ring seated well, it's a poofy thing) and make sure you use the wide (supplied?) metal fender type washers between the cap washer and the toilet itself when screwing it down. I put a bead of siliconized acrylic caulking between the outer edges on the bottom of the china toilet and the floor, then cleaned up any sq1ueeze out. The only "problem" I've had was occasionally, the tank of the back of the toilet "sweats" due to the incoming water being colder than the interior air. I leave an aquarium heater inside the tank for that. I plug it in when needed. Oh, and I use the soft 2 layer Sam's Club brand toilet paper or the Cottonelle in the purple package as well as the Sam's Club flushable wipes in an all female household. All three of these products will pass a "jar test" on breakdown. About once every other month, I pour a 1/2 cup of cheap automatic dishwasher detergent into the toilet, usually when I clean the toilet, and flush it down. I think it helps to keep the toilet lines cleaned out. I do not use 'RV" tank additives. It's really more for to keep the sewer line build up down. My residential washer is what keep the sewer lines rinsed out as the washer's drain pipe is below the gate valves.

How do you winterize a residential toilet? The same way you would in a summer cabin that is in an area where it freezes! My parents winterized a whole house with 2 bathrooms plus a rental cabin with 1 bathroom every year for over 20 years and never lost a toilet to freezing. Folks winterize residential toilets all the time.

I'm not a big fan of most anything that says "RV" on it. "RV" tends to mean poor quality and suitable for use a few days per year. Typical manufactured RVs are meant to be used about 2 to 3 weeks per year. Most of their warranties are voided if you live in one full time or part time. I built my bus around mostly residential parts. I have Valterra ABS holding tanks (because I can glue up and repair ABS), a shurflo agricultural pump, and a marine mascerator. Everything else is residential or agricultural (like the stock tank float in my fresh water tank so I have an automatic fill/shut off because I filter all my water and therefore hold/pump from my fresh water holding tank).
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Old 05-28-2022, 01:48 PM   #5
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Biggest issue in a Standard RV ....not converted bus is the offset between backwall and center line of floor flange

RV toilets are typically set 11" offset
That does not leave enough room for a Tank/residential toilet
Then there is the clearance issues a the front of toilet.....sink cabinet doors, space to relocate a residential toilet etc

YES you can install a residential toilet in an RV
Just have to relocate the floor flange/down pipe to black tank IF you have the space around the toilet area to redo and install a Residential

Then you might want to consider doing away with Black/Grey tanks and hard pipe the waste to sewer as the RV is going to be permanent

Mods can be done....just time/money and effort
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Old 05-28-2022, 07:58 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Biggest issue in a Standard RV ....not converted bus is the offset between backwall and center line of floor flange

RV toilets are typically set 11" offset
That does not leave enough room for a Tank/residential toilet
I replaced an RV toilet with a residential toilet. My residential toilet had the same rough in as the Traveler 910. I had to check several toilets before I got one that fit. It's a "round" bowl not an elongated bowl. But, contrary to what was posted, it IS doable and an "offset adapter" may be needed (like I said) with out any rerouting needed. An adapter alleviates some of the minor variances when swapping ANY toilet since the roughin varies between styles and manufacturers of residential toilets. Also none of the stuff about the tanks apply since my bus DOES roll down the highways just fine. It hooks up to full hookups just fine. And I use a 4 wheeled tote when I am on w/e hookups only and don't want to drive to the dunp station.

While I was building out the bus conversion, I was living full time in a Class C with a POS Thetford toilet. It had to have all the springy parts replaced. That involved pulling it out completely. I used that as my dimension for the rough in for the traveler 910. The residential toilet dropped right in place. So your 11" rough in may not be set in stone.

Then again, it's not my RV, not my circus and certainly not my monkeys. That belongs to the OP. He asked and eveyone who had answered did not have the experiance. Oh... and my dad did the same thing with a little camper trailer back in the early 70's. Must have been magic that these residential toilets fit.
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Old 06-01-2022, 04:48 PM   #7
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I have essentially the same rig, same situation, same question.

To be clear, the idea is to delete the black tank and plumb the toilet and grey water straight into the sewer system. Essentially converting the thing from an RV to a park model.

Great idea, it's just not totally clear to me how to do that, regulatory-wise. Physically I reckon if I throw enough money at it I can drop the tank and put a flush toilet in there. Then the question is, whether that plumbing arrangement meets local building codes. Then a question of whether it can be registered and insured. The latter has been giving me fits; RV insurance companies say it's a mobile home (partially because prior owner somehow registered it that way) and mobile home insurance companies say it's an RV.

Every time I go down that path I come back to the idea that it's really not that big a deal to empty the holding tank every few days, get a plate for it, add it to my RV policy, done. Still, I'm interested to hear what you come up with. Note, my wife and my RV tech both think I've lost my mind when I talk about this, fair warning
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Old 06-02-2022, 05:50 AM   #8
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Kudos to Aquaflex for fixing the pees in crappy.
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conversion, toilet

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