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06-08-2020, 09:50 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 18
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Trailer Roof Repair. RV Roof Magic? Buytl? Dicor? Thoughts?
New to the forum but was searching for awhile. I have a 2015 Coachman Apex travel trailer that my wife and I full-time out in. Nothing fancy but it works.
We had a slight leak in the front of the trailer where the roof and the front cap meet. I used Dicor about a year ago all over that front seam and it slowed it down. A few weeks ago, the leak was back. I figured I could use another tube or so of Dicor but that seemed more like putting a bandaid on the issue.
What would you all recommend?
I have tossed around ideas of removing all the caulking and the metal strip. Then using Butyl tape and replacing the strip with some more caulk. I have also thought about RV Roof Magic. The company said I can just paint over the old caulk.
But what I really wanted to do was use the Butyl tape, then (possibly) entrabond tape, RV Roof Magic, then replace the strip, and then Dicor.
Curious to know your thoughts since I am new to all this.
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06-08-2020, 12:05 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Conch Republic
Posts: 2,420
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I like eternabond. I have done this before. Clean with alcohol first then roll with a wallpaper roller. Check for existing substrate damage before you do it though.
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33' 2008 National Tropical on a Freightliner chassis.RVM#189
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06-08-2020, 06:32 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 303
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If the seam you are speaking of is between a rubber roof and fiberglass end cap, I believe the proper repair would be to remove all of the old lap sealant, clean and dry area and replace with liberal amounts of dicor non-sag lap sealant. A heat gun helps with removal. I used mineral spirits to clean roof but use it sparingly as you are not supposed to use petroleum products on the epdm rubber roofs.
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1999 Fleetwood Bounder 28T. Ford F53 chassis. 18,000 lb GVWR. 19.5” wheels.
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06-10-2020, 09:54 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Full Timing. When I park I'm home
Posts: 1,369
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I believe that Fugitive861 is correct about cleaning everything and then just using lots of self leveling chalk. But I would contact Coachman and find out for sure how they recommend you do it. I have seen the self leveling chalk used and I have also seen the eternabond tape and then chalking used.
You must also remember that this is on going maintenance and your should be checking the roof seams every year. I have been full time in ours for 11 years and I inspect the roof a couple times a year.
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2004 Volvo, 2009 smart car
2008 Hitch Hiker Champagne
Full timing January 2010
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06-10-2020, 02:37 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fugitive861
If the seam you are speaking of is between a rubber roof and fiberglass end cap, I believe the proper repair would be to remove all of the old lap sealant, clean and dry area and replace with liberal amounts of dicor non-sag lap sealant. A heat gun helps with removal. I used mineral spirits to clean roof but use it sparingly as you are not supposed to use petroleum products on the epdm rubber roofs.
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Who said its proper?
RV manufacturers use this dicor pile on because they are to cheap to do it the right way. EDPM roofing is not just for RV's, it's used commercial and home applications and there! Well they don't even suggest using such a manner. Flashing tap is used for everything exposed on the roof or joint covering. Lap sealant is just used on the lap joints created by the tape.
So the eternabond suggestion is the proper way, case closed!
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06-11-2020, 08:41 AM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 18
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Thank you, everyone! I already have some Entrabond so I can add that to be extra safe. I assume, I would remove the old caulking and the metal strip (if I can), then add Entrabond, put the metal back, and re-caulk?
I wouldnt mind just re-caulking what is up there now but I did not want a mess of caulk and the old caulk has no visible cracks.
Coachmen said to get it pressure tested to figure out where the leak is...
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06-11-2020, 08:59 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kfly
Thank you, everyone! I already have some Entrabond so I can add that to be extra safe. I assume, I would remove the old caulking and the metal strip (if I can), then add Entrabond, put the metal back, and re-caulk?
I wouldnt mind just re-caulking what is up there now but I did not want a mess of caulk and the old caulk has no visible cracks.
Coachmen said to get it pressure tested to figure out where the leak is...
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Remove as much of the old caulk as you safely can. Leave the metal strip intact. Many times more than not rescrewing it down strips the holes out.
Make sure the area is clean and grease free, you can use the Eternabond cleaner or make you own cleaner. The spray is acetone based at around 70% acetone. Some like to use a mix of Alcohol and white vinegar.
Lay down the Eternabond overlapping both edges and then use the dicor the proper way and just seal the edges of the tape.
There is no caulk product that's ever been made that you can safely lay it down thick, have it heal properly and seal. That is why Dicor doesn't last, cracks and has to be watched closely.
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06-11-2020, 12:20 PM
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#8
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Senior Member/RVM #90
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Columbus, MS
Posts: 53,966
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You can thoroughly clean the seam, including the old caulk, with Acetone, then apply a strip of 4" EternaBond tape, pressing it firmly in place. You don't have to remove the old caulk it it's still firmly in place, as long as the EternaBond tape overlaps it an ample amount on each side of the seam. If the old caulk is too wide then you will need to remove it before apply the tape. JMHO 
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Joe & Annette
Sometimes I sits and thinks, sometimes I just sits.....
2002 Monaco Windsor 40PBT, 2013 Honda CRV AWD
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