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SpaceNorman · 01-17-2022, 08:49 PM

I'm looking for help troubleshooting a water pressure/flow issue I'm having with my 2012 Holiday Rambler Endeavor. Explained simply - the pressure/flow of water to any fixture that supports a flow greater than 1.5 Gallons per minute (i.e., the kitchen sink faucet (2.8 Gallon per minute max flow), bathroom shower (3.5 Gallon Per Minute Max Flow) has fallen dramatically.

We've replaced the shower head with a new OXygenics 3.5 gallon per minute unit. We've soaked the pulldown head of the kitchen faucet in CLR as well as tooth picked the sprayer holes clean. These actions helped some - but the flow is still not back the previous "normal".

The flow of cold water is much closer to what was normal for "cold only". The "whole house" ceramic cartridge filter has been replaced. Only the hot side the plumbing suffers.

The coach doesn't have the typical propaned fired water heater. The coach has an Aquahot 400D boiler system in it. The Aquahot is producing hot water - it's simply not flowing thru that side of the house at the expected flow rate.

I scanned the Aquahot documentation and saw no mention of filters or intake screens that might be clogged.

Anybody got an idea?

TandW · 01-18-2022, 05:37 AM

You don't say whether this is your pump pressure or your park hook-up pressure that is failing. In any case look for strainer screens at the pump and at your pressure reducer for park hook-up.

MtCamper · 01-18-2022, 06:01 AM

If you have noticed a change you likely have a clogged screen or filter somewhere. There is a screen on your park hook-up and probably one on your pump as well. Your pump may have a screen housed in the pump itself or a separate inline filter so check your owners manual. First test is does the flow vary between hose hook-up and pump. Those flow rates you are seeking are very high. Most faucets flow between 1 and 1.5 gpm and I think there is a mandated max flow rate is something like 2.2 gmp. I know shower heads are all rated at about 2 gmp or less. Of course the flow rate will depend on input psi. Average standard there is 40 to 60 psi.

Bigd9 · 01-18-2022, 06:02 AM

Since you state the problem is only with the hot water, I suspect there is a mixing valve that is stopped up with mineral deposits. A mixing valve will take very hot water, produced by the heater, mix it with cold water to produce acceptable hot water temperatures at the faucets.

kewag · 01-18-2022, 06:13 AM

Mine is very similar. I have done the filters and cleaning faucets as you have. An RV tech who works on hydronic heating suggested running CLR through the coils in the hydrohot and let soak 12 hours then flush out completely. I did that and the flow increased but not to the original flow. Let us know how you make out..

Unplanned Tourist · 01-18-2022, 06:35 AM

Do you have 1 or 2 valves for bypassing your hot water system for winterizing?

If only 1, you could have a problem with the check valve that replaces the second valve. They are known for causing exactly what you describe.

YC1 · 01-18-2022, 07:03 AM

Ball check valves can become a bit strange at times. If my shoreline pressure is high enough I get plenty of pressure throughout.

It the shoreline water pressures is around 50 lbs the pressure throughout really suffers.

I changed my onboard pump to a higher pressure model and that helps a bit and can even help add to the weak shoreline pressure when needeed.

I know I have changed a couple of ball valves over the years but didn't draw a good diagram of my water path and sure wish I had.

This may be a job when it warms up. Chase the water path and see if I can bypass any ball valves temporarily.