Community Forums

n5pht · 05-09-2014, 04:31 PM

I have a Suburban 6 gallon gas only water heater. I was listening to it and it sounded like it was trying to go off - and did once. I read in one of the posts (can't remember where) someone said they drilled extra air holes. Someone also said they just opened the cover about an inch.

I tried the opening of the cover about an inch and all seemed fine. Note that we have the extra bug screen installed so I guess that cuts down a little on air flow? I have not tried yet to take it off and see that that has the same effect as opening the door an inch or two.

I made a little wire hook to hold open the door and that is workable but this is a new MH and really don't like to have to do that necessarily. Since opening the door just a little seems to work does that mean (for a more permanent solution) I need to make an air intake adjustment? No idea how to do that procedure.

Secondly, not related: The pop-off value seems to drip quite a bit as it gets to terminal heating. I (twice or three times now) have went through the procedure to turn off water supply, open a line and then open value and let water flow until it stops. That helped quite a bit but still seems to drip more than I remember a TT we had that was gas only - but only had it a short time and my other experiences has been with dual electric and gas and I only used electric. So, how much dripping is considered normal and how much might indicate time for a new release value?

As always, ideas greatly appreciated.

Skip426 · 05-09-2014, 05:15 PM

"007" just posted a link to the Suburban manual for trouble shooting to" Suburban SW10DE " in recent posts.

dennis45 · 05-09-2014, 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by n5pht

I have a Suburban 6 gallon gas only water heater. I was listening to it and it sounded like it was trying to go off - and did once. I read in one of the posts (can't remember where) someone said they drilled extra air holes. Someone also said they just opened the cover about an inch.

I tried the opening of the cover about an inch and all seemed fine. Note that we have the extra bug screen installed so I guess that cuts down a little on air flow? I have not tried yet to take it off and see that that has the same effect as opening the door an inch or two.

I made a little wire hook to hold open the door and that is workable but this is a new MH and really don't like to have to do that necessarily. Since opening the door just a little seems to work does that mean (for a more permanent solution) I need to make an air intake adjustment? No idea how to do that procedure.

Secondly, not related: The pop-off value seems to drip quite a bit as it gets to terminal heating. I (twice or three times now) have went through the procedure to turn off water supply, open a line and then open value and let water flow until it stops. That helped quite a bit but still seems to drip more than I remember a TT we had that was gas only - but only had it a short time and my other experiences has been with dual electric and gas and I only used electric. So, how much dripping is considered normal and how much might indicate time for a new release value?

As always, ideas greatly appreciated.

First, don't drill holes to modify the burner. It is designed to perform with a set gas pressure and folks with bigger heads than yours or mine did a pretty good job of figuring it out. Modifying an Engineered Gas Fired Product is Not a great idea. Gets really hot out when they explode.

Sounds like the burner tube is plugged with Spider Webs. These things like to crawl in and make a home for themselves in Hot Water Heaters.
Undo the fitting to remove the tubing and then remove the orifice and clean it with a toothpick and compressed air. Don't use any thing metal to clean the orifice!!
Now take your compressed air hose and blow out the Burner Tube to remove the Spider Webs. Reassemble, turn on the gas, watch as it lights then wait for 20 minutes or so and enjoy your shower.

n5pht · 05-09-2014, 07:49 PM

Can you give more details on "undo the fitting..." sentence. I can send a pic if it helps.

dennis45 · 05-09-2014, 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by n5pht

Can you give more details on "undo the fitting..." sentence. I can send a pic if it helps.

Sorry, there is a 1/4" Aluminum Tube (silver) that goes from the gas valve to the burner tube. If memory serves, it takes a 7/16" wrench to undo the fittings and orifice. Might be 1/2". Send me a PM if you need further help.

Sent from my iPad using iRV2 - RV Forum

n5pht · 05-09-2014, 08:00 PM

Thanks. I will send pm tomorrow with pics - appreciate the help.

n5pht · 05-10-2014, 08:45 AM

Well, can't figure out how to add an image of the water heater? The FAQ says to go to my control panel and click on a link for albums - can't find it and I have looked for 30 minutes. Time to give up. Maybe someone can tell me step by step to upload a picture. I have done it because I have some 'attachments' listed when I click on that but can't for the life of me figure out how again to upload a picture?