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Old 02-10-2016, 09:35 PM   #15
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I had a similar problem on first trip after winter. You may have air in the line. My solution was to turn on all the burners on the gas stove for a few minutes. This pulls propane from the tank and pushes some to the water heater at the same time. No problem since doing that every first trip of the season. Also had a blocked tube due to mud daubber bees. Cleaned that out with a thin piece of wire. Now I tape the outside water heater access plate before storing for the winter and that eliminates that problem.

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Old 02-11-2016, 09:38 AM   #16
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I had the same problem on my first trip out last year. Turns out that I hadn't turned the HW water bypass valve off after winterizing in the fall. So of course there was no water in the HW tank to heat.
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Old 02-11-2016, 10:00 AM   #17
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I had the same problem on my first trip out last year. Turns out that I hadn't turned the HW water bypass valve off after winterizing in the fall. So of course there was no water in the HW tank to heat.
That very well could be the issue, the overheat sensor could be turning the WH off! None of us suggested this basic caution: MAKE SURE THE TANK IS FULL OF WATER before turning it on!
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Old 02-12-2016, 11:06 AM   #18
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Three very common problems with Atwood's. Dirt dauber nests in the heater exhaust, They are sometimes hard to find as they seem to like the bend which is where you can't see them. Another is the control module (black box) that has a printed board connector that sometimes need to be cleaned. Last but not least is the flame sensor rods. It seems that they can and do develop hairline cracks that are almost impossible to see. What the cracks do is bleed of the minute (microamp) signal to the control module which shuts off the gas and flame. I used to have a 30 trailer and have experienced all three of these fine quirks. What fun!
Good luck, good health and safe travels!
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Old 03-01-2016, 03:53 PM   #19
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We had a similar problem in our 2000 Itasca Suncruiser. The Atwood 10 hot water heater would ignite and burn for 5-10 seconds, go out, then try to cycle again until it locked itself out. Tore the system apart and metered all the wires, etc as suggested by the Atwood manual... finally determined that it was the control board that was bad. Installed a Dinosaur replacement board and the system works as advertised now. Good luck with your challenge!

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Old 03-01-2016, 04:06 PM   #20
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Fired the WH this am and it worked for five minutes and then shutdown and would NOT re fire....it is doing the same thing of burning for a few seconds and then shutting down.
I will clean everything I can and maybe get a new thermocoupler today and re try....thanks to all for your help.
Yes...we have 2/3 of a tank of LP....it is always best to check the easy things first....
I will let you'll know what I find....

Soooooooo....what did you find
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Old 03-02-2016, 01:08 PM   #21
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Yes, we are waiting to find out
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Old 03-02-2016, 03:30 PM   #22
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Have you flipped the lever on the pressure relief valve to be sure the tank is full of water? If it is, then proceed to blowing the air tube out with compressed air, either a compressor or a can of air. If that fails, then go on to the flame sensor. Finally, check the connections to the control board.
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Old 03-02-2016, 07:05 PM   #23
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Have you flipped the lever on the pressure relief valve to be sure the tank is full of water? If it is, then proceed to blowing the air tube out with compressed air, either a compressor or a can of air. If that fails, then go on to the flame sensor. Finally, check the connections to the control board.
By doing that you are getting rid of 'air pocket'
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Old 03-02-2016, 10:43 PM   #24
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By doing that you are getting rid of 'air pocket'
No, the air pocket forms in the part of the tank above the pressure relief valve. In fact, opening and letting water out of the valve, air gurgles in, restoring the air pocket for expansion.
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Old 03-02-2016, 11:12 PM   #25
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No, the air pocket forms in the part of the tank above the pressure relief valve. In fact, opening and letting water out of the valve, air gurgles in, restoring the air pocket for expansion.
Correct ----If done with water supply off.
Water supply ON and level will rise above TPR and force air out

Wasn't clear on whether water supply off or not???
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