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Old 07-21-2015, 11:17 PM   #15
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I put another gauge and fittings before the Watts regulator to check what pressure from campground is. However it ended up being too big and bulky so took it off. I now have it mounted to a separate tee and fittings to check the pressure before hooking up my regulator. Then at least I know what the pressure is and can keep an eye on the gauge that is with the regulator.

I checked the cheap inline one I had with this gauge and it was supposed to be 45 psi but was only 38 psi. The Watts regulator made a huge difference with the water flow even when I adjusted it down to 38 psi to compare it with the cheap one. I leave it set at the factory 50 psi setting and when combining it with the Oxygenic shower head it is like showering at home now while hooked to campground. Haven't tried the Oxygenics with the trailer water pump but it will still be a big improvement from the cheap crappy one that was in it.
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Old 07-22-2015, 08:10 PM   #16
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I just pulled into a campground is South Lake Tahoe and every site has one of these installed on the water valve. Now that's what I was looking for.

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Old 07-23-2015, 10:22 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harryc View Post
I just pulled into a campground is South Lake Tahoe and every site has one of these installed on the water valve. Now that's what I was looking for.

Attachment 100855
Cheaper than defending a lawsuit I guess!
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Old 07-23-2015, 10:34 AM   #18
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I use a Watts with a gauge attached on the output side. Purchased both at Home Depot. I use an unprotected hose from the bib to the regulator. No problems with it after 5 years.


I have also found that many people with flow rate problems are using 1/2" hoses. A 5/8" hose with a Watts regulator makes all the difference.
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Old 07-24-2015, 11:01 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by wigginsjsr View Post
I use a Watts with a gauge attached on the output side. Purchased both at Home Depot. I use an unprotected hose from the bib to the regulator. No problems with it after 5 years.


I have also found that many people with flow rate problems are using 1/2" hoses. A 5/8" hose with a Watts regulator makes all the difference.
The problem with using a larger hose is that it holds less pressure. The half inch white water hose can hold line pressure all day long in hot sun but anything else might not. If you use anything else it would be better to put the regulator at the tap. However, 5 years with no problems is hard to argue against.
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Old 07-24-2015, 01:49 PM   #20
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Good info!

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Old 07-24-2015, 01:51 PM   #21
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More good info!

Definitions
  • Water flow refers to the amount of water coming out of a hose, faucet or other pipe fixture in a certain amount of time. Water pressure refers to the amount of force that is put on the water to make it move from one place to another, or to the amount of force the water exerts when coming out of the pipe. Water pressure often is caused by gravitational pull.

Measurement
  • Water flow and water pressure have separate units of measurement. Water flow is measured in liters per second, since it is a measure of how much liquid is being dispensed. Water pressure is measured in kilopascals (kPa). It is a measurement of how much stress, or force, is put on the water as it moves through the pipe or other container.
Adjustment
  • Because water flow and water pressure are two very different things, they are adjusted in different ways. Water flow is changed by adjusting the opening to the pipe, such as the shower head you use. Water pressure is changed by altering the diameter or texture of the pipe, using a different pump/regulator or pump/regulator setting, or changing the amount of water that is elevated above the water coming through the line (the weight of the water creates pressure on the water below).
Friction
  • Water flow and pressure both are related to friction. As water moves through a pipe, friction will slow it to a certain degree, depending on the texture and diameter of the pipe. The smoother the pipe, the less friction there is and the faster water can move through the pipe, provided that the water pressure is sufficient. With good water pressure, the friction in smaller pipes can be overcome so that the water flow remains high.
Pipe Size
  • In general, the larger a pipe, the higher the water flow. However, the water pressure level always has to be considered. If water pressure is too low, then even the largest, smoothest pipes will not have good water flow because they don't have enough pressure to overcome the force of friction.
Problems
  • If you think you may have a problem with your water pressure or flow but aren't sure where to start, think about whether the water flows more vigorously at certain points of the day or when many lines are open at once. If the water flow slows during peak water usage hours or if it changes only when you turn on multiple faucets, then this signals that pressure is not high enough to keep water moving through all the lines at one time. If, however, water flow is reduced to a trickle at all times or if water runs well through one line and not another, then the problem probably is a blockage resulting in poor water flow out of the pipe
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Old 07-24-2015, 02:36 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harryc View Post
I just pulled into a campground is South Lake Tahoe and every site has one of these installed on the water valve. Now that's what I was looking for.

Attachment 100855
Here at the Oasis RV park in Las Vegas - all water bibs have a back flow preventer on them. The only problem is the thread length is a little short. My Y connector is fairly deep threaded and I couldn't get it tight enough. Fortunately they have 2 spigots per site. Took both hoses (fresh water and Santi Flush line off the Y and attached hoses directly.

We have our gauged regulator in the water bay on a 90 degree fitting. Always there and always used. Both the lines in on the coach have back flow prevention but the park handout states... by law, they have them installed on all faucets.

Joe's posted link to the water filter store is a must read for anyone with water questions. They cover it! I have several lengths of their 200 psi hose and it's the a great product. I have a short one on the Santi Flush inlet with a quick disconnect for attaching the hose to it.

I carry 2 50 ft Goodyear water hoses for the flush and general purpose water needs. They're a bit heavy but I use a carry strap on them which helps keep em under control.
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Old 07-24-2015, 03:49 PM   #23
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I just talked with the guy at the RVWaterFilter store. They have the regulator below listed at $24.95. He says it is an excellent quality regulator that give you full GPM flow from the faucet. It is set at 55PSI, not adjustable, and no gauge. He has a pressure gauge with brass hose fittings for $19.95. The non-adjustable part is not a problem for me. I'm thinking this is the way I want to go. Anybody heard anything negative about this unit?

Lead-free R.v. Water Pressure Regulator | Your Trusted Industrial Products Company | Fairviewfittings
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Old 07-24-2015, 04:03 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by MSHappyCampers View Post
I just talked with the guy at the RVWaterFilter store. They have the regulator below listed at $24.95. He says it is an excellent quality regulator that give you full GPM flow from the faucet. It is set at 55PSI, not adjustable, and no gauge. He has a pressure gauge with brass hose fittings for $19.95. The non-adjustable part is not a problem for me. I'm thinking this is the way I want to go. Anybody heard anything negative about this unit?

Lead-free R.v. Water Pressure Regulator | Your Trusted Industrial Products Company | Fairviewfittings
Joe - other than the extra 25 bucks or so - I can't think of a reason not to get one with the gauge built in. When I hook up - I know exactly what I'm getting when we hook up the water. Right now we are registering right at 50 psi. The last park was pushing it to get 30. I like knowing the pressure. If you don't need or want to know - I'm sure you got great advice from the best source!
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Old 07-24-2015, 04:07 PM   #25
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Water Pressure Regulators

Quote:
Originally Posted by flaggship1 View Post
Joe - other than the extra 25 bucks or so - I can't think of a reason not to get one with the gauge built in. When I hook up - I know exactly what I'm getting when we hook up the water. Right now we are registering right at 50 psi. The last park was puching it to get 30. I like knowing the pressure. If you don't need or want to know - I'm sure you got great advice from the best source!

I agree and will add one that you can adjust the pressure for a little more. It's a product that will last a long time. I Purchased this one from them. I think it was the 265A. This is a true regulator and not just a restrictor.
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Old 07-24-2015, 04:09 PM   #26
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I agree and will add one that you can adjust the pressure for a little more. It's a product that will last a long time. I Purchased this one from them. I think it was the 265A. This is a true regulator and not just a restrictor.
Attachment 100996
X2 on adjustable... lol.
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Old 07-24-2015, 04:25 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Carrier View Post
This is what I use.

Hey. My Watts unit resembles that (It is a decade old and needs a rebuid)

In fact other than the name my ZURIN resembles it too (Much newer) both are 3/4" and work great, NO flow reduction just pressure controlled.

In this park the Zurin would be wide open all the time (Set point higher than pump pressure cut off point)
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Old 07-24-2015, 06:11 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flaggship1 View Post
Joe - other than the extra 25 bucks or so - I can't think of a reason not to get one with the gauge built in. When I hook up - I know exactly what I'm getting when we hook up the water. Right now we are registering right at 50 psi. The last park was pushing it to get 30. I like knowing the pressure. If you don't need or want to know - I'm sure you got great advice from the best source!

Steve, I think you misread my post. I was talking about getting the regulator AND the pressure gauge. Total of $45 compared to $89.95 for the best Watts regulator, which only has 6-9 GPM flow!
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