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Old 12-05-2013, 02:13 PM   #1
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Water pump runs for a couple of seconds then shuts off

Noticed this a few weeks ago. The indicator on the fresh water shows red which means it is low. I turned on the pump to see if water would flow....it does from the kitchen sink and the bathroom sink and also the toilet...all good. Now with all those turned off it cycles on for about 2 seconds and then off for about 10 and continues to do that. I do not find any leaks but then I went out side to look in the back door (Class C) to see if the pump hoses where leaking and noticed a small stream coming out from the city water hose connection. Did not every see that before. What is going on? If I turn off the pump then that stream eventually stops but not right away...it takes about a minute.
Is all of this happening because the water tank is almost empty? I was going to fill up the tank but there is a cold snap for the next two days and I do not want to have the tank full and then freeze. We are in CA but sometimes it does get cold
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Old 12-05-2013, 02:21 PM   #2
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When you're on city water, the water is admitted into the RV's plumbing system downstream of the water pump. When the pump is running and you're disconnected from city water, a check valve in the city water line is supposed to keep the discharge pressure from the pump from pushing water back out the city water line. If this check valve is leaking, then you'll see the symptoms you describe. When the system pressure bleeds down due to the leaking check valve, the pump will cycle again to build up pressure until it reaches its shutoff setting.

There's also a check valve in the pump's discharge line to keep the city water from backflowing through the pump and (over)filling the fresh water tank, but that's not a suspect with the problem you describe.

Rusty
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Old 12-05-2013, 02:54 PM   #3
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Where might I find the check valve?

Hey thanks for the reply. I can see the line going out to the city but no check valve. Might it be attached to the pump? This is a 2006 Four Winds with the pump and tank in the back end right under the bed area. Not a whole lot of room to work in. If you have a pictures or a link to a picture of what the valve might look like that would be great. I am good with tools but just no a lot of experience with the RV water system.
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Old 12-05-2013, 03:40 PM   #4
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If there is no check valve on the inlet, it would never have worked right. The check valve is probably integral to (just inside)the city water inlet fitting. Try poking around inside the inlet with a stiff wire or ice pick, and see if you can get it working. If not, it is not very expensive to replace it.

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Old 12-05-2013, 03:49 PM   #5
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Here ya go:

Amazon.com: JR Products 9690-200-023 City Water Fill with Check Valve: Automotive
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Old 12-05-2013, 03:56 PM   #6
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If you disconnect the city water inlet hose, you will likely find a
one piece strainer and washer. Remove this and you will find a
small blunt plastic thing, that if you push on it, will give way
against a spring, and water will run out. This is the check valve
to keep your water from reversing into the city water system
when pressures are sufficient. This valve often fails since many
folks don't push on it to let antifreeze get to it, or fail to
blow it out. Also, this part can fail due to wear and tear, etc.
The fix is to replace the entire inlet fixture, as shown on the
Amazon link in the previous post.
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Old 12-05-2013, 04:02 PM   #7
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inlet valve

Interesting as on this coach there is nothing more than a water hose connection to which I have one of those short (about 6") water hose extensions that has a coil of wire around it so you can flex it without kinking. Will remove that and see if there is anything else in the feed tube. From what I can see on the inside is that fitting has a 1/2 plastic tube that runs over to the inside.....but will check all of this out. The filler for the tank is just a fat flex line that just allows filling until water comes out the smaller tube next to it. Pretty straight forward. Thanks for all the great replys. Will update later.
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Old 12-05-2013, 04:23 PM   #8
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update

I took off the extension and just inside the hose connection is that check valve. I can make the water stop by wiggling the center piece of the valve but it looks like the rubber is old. It appears that this is one of those units that has the plastic door with a fill fitting for the water tank and this city water fitting next to it. Looks like to get it out I will have to remove the hose from the water tank and then pull it out far enough to undo the other fitting. The valve is molded into the fixture and not a separate piece that someone else shows. At least now I know the problem. I might just use some silicone spray to see if that helps before going to all this trouble.
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Old 12-05-2013, 04:29 PM   #9
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Here is what I think is the right replacement...any opinions?
JR Products K7112-6-A Polar White City/Gravity Water Hatch with Brass Check Valve and Key Lock : Amazon.com : Automotive
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Old 12-05-2013, 04:48 PM   #10
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It just occurred to me that maybe someone makes just a short extension that contains a check valve that could be screwed into this hose fitting...It would put another check valve inline but would solve the problem and be much cheaper. I have been looking but have not seen anything. The other option is just screw in a plug to stop the leak when on inboard water. Ideas?
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Old 12-05-2013, 06:20 PM   #11
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While the pump is on (turn on a faucet if necessary) push in the check valve with your finger repeatedly until it seats. It may take several attempts. I had this same problem and solved it using this method.
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Old 12-05-2013, 06:25 PM   #12
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OK....turning on a faucet is the trick to relieve the pressure. I am also going to spray some silicone on it to keep it free. The other option over replacing the whole fixture is to screw a plug into the water hose fitting to block a leaking and then just remove it when needed to hook up the city water. Thanks I learned a lot today with this minor problem....
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Old 12-05-2013, 06:47 PM   #13
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Ensure any lubricant you use is food grade
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Old 12-06-2013, 12:45 PM   #14
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All fixed

Ok I removed the pressure opening a faucet and then sprayed some PAM cooking oil into the seal and moved it around many times back and forth and side to side. Checked it and it holds....probabe some junk in there as it was very slight...but this fixed it. I am also getting a screw in plug just in case when out on the road I can easily seal that off even if the check valve does leak again.
Again I love forums and the free wonderful advice you all offer. I learned something and saved a ton of $$$$

Thanks again all of you and have a great Holiday!
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