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Old 03-29-2015, 10:06 AM   #43
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Need to diagnose your refrigerator problem before taking drastic action such as pulling your unit out:

Check that your 12V terminal block, follow the 120V plug-in wire to just bottom center left of the outside rear of refrigerator, it has to have battery voltage. Even though you have 120V AC and propane if no 12V DC no go!. The controls have to have 12V DC to work. Lets us know what you find there.

Good Luck!
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Old 03-29-2015, 10:25 AM   #44
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I vote for something spilled.

Get a copy of manual and troubleshoot.
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Old 03-29-2015, 06:23 PM   #45
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when i got there, the chassis battery was unable to start engine, i had to combine the powers to start. while on solar charging, it showed 12.5v but at night it dropped to 10.5v. i knew it was toast. after equalizing, it held 13v at night, still, merely cranked a half turn. i am not sure if that caused the problem. when i get there again i will get a new 8d for chassis and see how it goes.

yeah i have the user's manual and i will go troubleshoot. thanks everyone.
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Old 03-30-2015, 04:17 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
Told them that far,far,far up-thread and still they yammer about Ammonia leaks.
On a residential system of say 3 to 5 tons capacity there is the possibility of power steering fluid in the refrigerant since a number supplement flow using a power steering pump to pressurize a plastic/teflon diaphragm to pump the ammonia through the system and after time the diaphragms tend to crack however not the case on the simple systems in a frige. Some may be thinking of those larger more complex system from the likes of Arkler/Servel.
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Old 04-29-2015, 01:56 AM   #47
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a quick update: installed the new chassis battery, the fridge is back to life. it's amazing to know that the chassis battery controls the fridge!! phew! but why?

the fridge cools down pretty fast - took 7 hours to cool empty spaces from about 85 degrees f to 40 on propane. not bad
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