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Kayakist · 04-04-2022, 03:49 PM

These fittings are for my hot water bypass system. I want to get a couple more for spares. I would prefer brass fittings if possible. I'm a plumbing novice so I'd appreciate any advice (pics or links would be a bonus).

Happy travels.

DavidEM · 04-04-2022, 04:01 PM

They are 1/2" three way valves. Why spares? These only get used once to winterize and another time to dewinterize each year. They won't wear out.

David

DFord · 04-04-2022, 11:00 PM

Most likely is was a bypass kit for your water heater. The flexible hose crimp on the valves was a factory job. You could buy another complete bypass kit to replace it if you have any problems with it.

Kayakist · 04-05-2022, 06:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidEM

They are 1/2" three way valves. Why spares? These only get used once to winterize and another time to dewinterize each year. They won't wear out.

David

Ha, good point, I'm a little paranoid about water leaks. Thanks to you all for fully identifying what I have.

Cheers!

Persistent · 04-05-2022, 06:49 AM

Brass is not always better. Plastic is more flexible. It is less likely to be damaged if water freezes inside.

This application will not put much wear on the plastic valve.

Winemaker2 · 04-05-2022, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Persistent

Brass is not always better. Plastic is more flexible. It is less likely to be damaged if water freezes inside.

This application will not put much wear on the plastic valve.

If you do get any leaks at that plastic nut that screws onto the brass resist the urge to tighten in up with a strong arm. You can split the plastic and need to replace the whole valve. With water P off just loosen the nut and you should find a rubber cone washer. Replace the rubber cone washer a snug it back up.

There are brass 3vway bypass valves but they can have issues. Either will work and generally available at any RV shop. You may need to adapt to the OEM tubing but PEX ftgs readily available in any big box hdwre store.
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...xoCvpUQAvD_BwE

Kayakist · 04-06-2022, 03:43 AM

Good to know. Thanks for posting this.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Winemaker2

If you do get any leaks at that plastic nut that screws onto the brass resist the urge to tighten in up with a strong arm. You can split the plastic and need to replace the whole valve. With water P off just loosen the nut and you should find a rubber cone washer. Replace the rubber cone washer a snug it back up.

There are brass 3vway bypass valves but they can have issues. Either will work and generally available at any RV shop. You may need to adapt to the OEM tubing but PEX ftgs readily available in any big box hdwre store.
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...xoCvpUQAvD_BwE

dssl · 04-06-2022, 09:35 AM

One other suggestion. When you are winterizing make sure to blow compresses air through that valve in both normal and bypass modes.

Dav L · 04-10-2022, 08:47 AM

Deluxe would be to replace the valves with electric motor driven 3 way valves...that way it is one step towards "automatic" winterizing / bypass. They are available with manual control as well as a backup.

hclarkx · 04-13-2022, 11:41 AM

And if you do need to change this valve, you will need a pex crimping tool, pex supplies (including possibly couplings and more pex to extend one or both lines since you will be cutting them back to get rid of the existing crimp rings (the rings can be cut off with a dremel to save the existing pex but it's not fun to do - they are SS). I'd leave well enough alone. Just handle the valves with care when winterizing or de-winterizing. And be sure the pex on either side is not putting stress on the valve or might shake it to death. I used some zip ties and bits of wood to stabilize and support the pex around my water heater.