What style wire for inverter charger?

[chaostactics]

I'm trying to finalize supplies so I can get help installing, and I also want to learn more so I'm not useless during installation.

This is the diagram I'm following. I've also attached a pic of the inverter terminals.

The debate is if I need 10/3 or 10/2 and 6/3 or 6/2
X/3 = 3 load wires and ground, X/2 = 2 load, and ground.


Here is the wiring diagram, the inverter/charger (Victron 12|2000|80), and the wire they sold me at Lowes.

he black sheathed is the 6/2 I ended up with the orange sheathed is the 10/2. The inverter/charger will be chassis grounded via 2/0 cable through the Lynx bus

If I'm using 6/2 & 10/2 black to black, white to white, and paper insulated copper (aka bare copper) to green?
Or did I actually need 6/3 & 10/3?
Black, Green, and White to the respective and "bare copper? to...? The ground

[MrMark52]

You need “x/3 w/ground” for all your “cables” in order to assure the ground bonding relay works to prevent ground loops.

Note the 4th picture wiring diagram - black, green, white to hook to the inverter, ground to the grounding lug on the inverter - for each terminal block.
The ground always exists.
The PE terminal bonds to ground thru an internal relay of the Victron. Of shore power is seen, the relay opens (at least per the information given in the manual).

[rarebear.nm]

A 2000 watt inverter can produce about 16.6 Amps at peak, 2000/120 = 16.6. Depending on cable length a 12 ga cable is enough. No problem in going with the 10/3, just lower voltage loss = good thing.


If I remember correctly the Victron install manual allows for ground through the shore power (green wire) in a fixed inverter install. I prefer to always add a chassis ground in addition to ground next to the black & white wires. This ground should go directly to a solid chassis ground point. It can be the same or one gauge down from the primary conductors. In Romex wire the bare ground is usually one ga down graded.

[Persistent]

The Victron Multiplus 2000 watt 120 volt inverter/converter/charger can take up to 50 amps at 120 volts in, and 67 amps out.

See section 4.3 of the manual.
https://www.victronenergy.com/upload...-REV-09-EN.pdf

Consider an RV with a 50 amp 240 volt shore power supply. Use a 50 amp 120 volt breaker before the Multiplus 120 volt in connection. AWG 6 gauge wire is required. Hot, Neutral, and System Ground are needed. In this case, AWG 4 is required for the output 67 amp 120 volts. You can use AWG4 for both input and output. The shore power pedestal provides the earth ground through the system ground wire. Only one earth ground is allowed. A 70 amp 120 volt GFCI breaker is required on the output.

Consider an RV with a 30 amp 120 volt shore power supply. Use a 30 amp 120 volt breaker on the Multiplus input. AWG 10 cable with Hot, Neutral, and System ground are required. AWG 6 gauge wire is required on the output. You can use 6 awg wire for both input and output if you wish. The shore power pedestal provides the earth ground through the system ground wire. Only one earth ground is allowed. A 50 amp 120 volt GFCI breaker is required on the output.

There are code differences depending on the country and locality code requirements. Many places do not require GFCI on the output. I don't have RV specific codes. Victron Energy recommends to use the Blue Sea
systems GFCI circuit breakers PN. 309X or 310X.

Generator connections are similar, except generator must have a neutral to system ground bond. Only one ground at a time is allowed. An earth ground is not required. Your external shore/generator transfer switch must disconnect neutral to system ground bond for shore power use and connect frame ground for generator use.

DC cabling to the battery should be as short as possible. It must have a 300 amp fuse or circuit breaker. 4/0 gauge cable is required. The cable should have two 4/0 strands.

Rare Bear is not correct. See Multiplus manual for better instructions.

I do not know all code requirements, but a Hot, Neutral, and ground wire are required. An additional load wire does not appear to have any use in this application. Frame ground is established according to your wiring diagram through other cable.

If you are using bare ground (paper), it must not be at risk of touching the cabinet, frame, other bare metal, or any other grounds. This would be a case requiring insulated ground. You can insulate the exposed ground with electrical tape or shrink tubing.

[rarebear.nm]

A partial bad on my part.


I was not aware that this inverter model would latch the shore power input 30/50 amp onto the inverter power from the battery at about 17 amp. for the total under peak power output of 67 amps. At first reading someone might infer this model somehow produces 67 amps from a 2000 watt inverter. Not going to happen.


I now agree to use #6 wire for 30 amp service or #4 wire for 50 amp service. Breakers as shown.



I pulled a short section of the manual about this issue:

"The AC input must be protected by a fuse or magnetic circuit breaker rated at 50A
or less, and cable cross-section must be sized accordingly. If the input AC supply
is rated at a lower value, the fuse or magnetic circuit breaker should be downsized
accordingly.
• AC-out
With its PowerAssist feature the Multi can add up to 2kVA (that is 2000 / 120 = 17A) to
the output during periods of peak power requirement. Together with a maximum input
current of 50A this means that the output can supply up to 50 + 17 = 67A.
An earth leakage circuit breaker and a fuse or circuit breaker rated to support the
expected load must be included in series with the output, and cable cross-section
must be sized accordingly. Victron Energy recommends to use the Blue Sea
systems GFCI circuit breakersPN. 309X or 310X"

[chaostactics]

So my panel already has a 30A breaker. I'm unclear why/where I'd need the blue sea breaker? If it's truely needed where in the system would to go based on the wiring diagram I've posted?

[chaostactics]

AC-in
The AC input cable can be connected to the terminal block ‘AC–in’.
From right to left: “N” (neutral), “PE” (earth) and “L” (phase)
The AC input must be protected by a fuse or magnetic circuit breaker rated at 50A, and cable cross-section must be
sized accordingly. If the input AC supply is rated at a lower value, the fuse or magnetic circuit breaker should be down sized
accordingly.



• AC-out
The AC output cable can be connected directly to the terminal block ‘AC-out’.
From left to right: “L” (neutral), “PE” (earth) and “N” (phase)
With its PowerAssist feature the MultiPlus can add up to 2kVA (that is 2000 / 120 = 16A) to the output during periods of peak
power requirement. Together with a maximum input current of 50A this means that the output can supply up to 50 + 16 = 66 A.
Ground-fault circuit-interrupters shall be installed in the recreational vehicle wiring system to protect all branch circuits. Victron
Energy recommends to use the Blue Sea systems GFCI circuit breaker PN3093.


So the RV has one GFIC the protects all the outlets in the trailer. It trips and every outlet goes out.

I'm not getting what Victron is calling for here? An additional breaker for each AC in and AC out?

"Shore power" input whether a house, RV park, or a modern gen set should have built in breakers right?

The AC out would be routed to the 30A breaker already mounted in my breaker panel that was where shore power originally connected no?

[Persistent]

You do not need the Blue Sea breaker. It is an example of what you need.
A 30 amp 120 volt circuit breaker in the source cable is all that is needed. You could use a 30 amp 120 volt breaker for the output. Again, you do not need the Blue Sea breaker.

Using a 30 amp in and a 30 amp out will limit output to less than the Multiplus is capable of. Use a 30 amp in and a 50 amp out for an optimum combination. Appropriate wire size is required as well.

Where the breakers are located is less important. Normally they are located within a couple of feet of the source of the power.

I would not use GFCI capable breakers for this. I would provide the GFCI protection other ways.

[Captain8]

These answers are confusing. I have a Victron Quattro 5000 (bigger than yours). You need a /2 with ground so white, black and bare. A /3 with ground would add a red for 240V which you won't need. The gauge depends on the amperage.

Rarebear is correct that it'll boost power if you allow it so it all depends on how you wire it. If you wanna push max amps through then you need 50A input plus the 17a boost so wire thick enough to handle 67 amps. Otherwise you can disable that feature and also program it however you want to limit inputs and outputs. Regardless you need breakers in the system to prevent overloading.

BTW I hope you got a CerboGX or plan on it. This will allow you to see all the info on your phone and anywhere as long as it has wifi. Such a great tool with a bunch more features. You don't really need the screen either just use your phone. Also you can login to the vrm website from a pc and download the inverter settings then use VEConfig to program it and upload back... all wirelessly and you can even do remotely. Their documentation is confusing and it's hard to see what you need

[chaostactics]

The base electrical system on the TV was built as 30 Amp service. I don't think I want to do more wiring work than needed.

Switching my AC distro panel to a 50 Amp main breaker won't allow me to use 50 Amps in the trailer without further consideration/modification of the existing electrical system... Or will it? Would be kinda nice to run a couple larger loads at the same time. Microwave + whatever

It's still unclear if it's stating that I need ADDITIONAL breakers.

AC out goes to my distro panel that has a 30 Amp main breaker.

AC in wether from a pedestal, house, or generator would also have a breaker?

[Captain8]

Here's what I did. I bought a 50amp cable and plug for pedestal then ran it directly to my inverter. Didnt use the red wire so 120v 50amp. Removed all the old input plugs and stuff. I then ran 6/2 to my stock breaker box and replaced the 30amp breaker with a 50amp.

Even if you just upgraded your input wire it'll allow you to use 30amp output plus have 20amps to charge the batteries.

I also wired a 15amp input plug so I can use either 15amp or 50amp since I only use 15amp at home. The cerboGX allows us to easily set the input limit. I bought a MP then returned it for a Quattro since it has 2 inputs and outputs so it's an auto transfer switch with my generator.

You don't need a breaker on input the pedestal has a breaker. You do need one on the output though somewhere between any outlets and the inverter, doesn't need to be at the inverter. So no you shouldn't need any more breakers.

You want everything to go from the pedestal to the inverter then to everything else. This gives you UPS and other features like when you unplug from shore nothing turns off.