Winterize Splendide WD2100 - compressed air - why instruction to remove hoses?

[aribert]

I sort of followed these instructions: http://www.splendide.com/service/Win...ion_B-2001.pdf Before doing the spin cycle, I did a rinse cycle (with compressed air). I adjusted the water temp knob from hot to cold, with extended time in the warm zone. Then I followed the instructions for the spin cycle. Is there any reason I need to disconnect and "drain" the hoses since I already blew the hoses out with compressed air prior? BTW, I had opened up the low point drains a couple of weeks prior to winterizing so there did not appear to be any significant amount of water during the rinse cycle but I could clearly hear the air rush. Your thoughts?

[JerryP]

I plan to do the "Optional RV Winterization" as described in the Splendide winterization article that you posted. Thanks for finding these instructions.

The basic winterization doesn't clear any water out of the hot and cold washer water connections. It seems that these instructions are for washers in a sticks & bricks home location.

Regards, Jerry

[2cyber71]

A simple safe way
Looky

[NXR]

I queried Westland for the current instructions for the 2100XC in the last month because the ones linked in the first post have a copyright date of 2004. They sent the attached PDF.

I then asked them why the PDF procedure did not specify to flush the COLD lines, just the HOT line. They read the email but did not answer. So I used antifreeze twice, both HOT and COLD, to assure both lines were cleared out.

They do not have an approved way of winterizing with just air. I'd suspect that's because of all the places that water could accumulate in the drain pump. Unlike flushing out a small diameter water line, the larger internal chamber of a pump may drop the air pressure too much to flush all of the water out.

Ray

[aribert]

NXR

I fully agree that one needs to pour antifreeze into the drum and have the pump draw the antifreeze to protect the pump and any plumbing between the drum and the washer drain (presuming one is not using antifreeze in all the lines and that one is thereby getting antifreeze into the washer in that manner). I used about a quart of antifreeze in the drum.

My question is specific to the end portion of the winterize instructions that you posted (thanks for posting BTW):

Unplug washer-dryer from electrical outlet (or disconnect power);
Turn water supply faucets OFF. Disconnect inlet hoses from faucets;
Drain remaining water from the hoses.

I am thinking that if I used compressed air first, in a washer rinse cycle and heard the rush of air, the air in the supply lines and hoses should be purged and that there is no need to disconnect the hoses. This is the heart of my questioning - just trying to make sure I am not overlooking anything.

[NXR]

Originally Posted by aribert

I fully agree that one needs to pour antifreeze into the drum and have the pump draw the antifreeze to protect the pump and any plumbing between the drum and the washer drain (presuming one is not using antifreeze in all the lines and that one is thereby getting antifreeze into the washer in that manner). I used about a quart of antifreeze in the drum.

Thanks for that added bit of info.

My question is specific to the end portion of the winterize instructions that you posted (thanks for posting BTW):

Unplug washer-dryer from electrical outlet (or disconnect power);
Turn water supply faucets OFF. Disconnect inlet hoses from faucets;
Drain remaining water from the hoses.

I am thinking that if I used compressed air first, in a washer rinse cycle and heard the rush of air, the air in the supply lines and hoses should be purged and that there is no need to disconnect the hoses. This is the heart of my questioning - just trying to make sure I am not overlooking anything.

One option is for when you're pumping antifreeze through all lines. The other option is for when you're not. You chose Option #3.

I think your reasoning is sound and I'm sure you'll let us know in the Spring how it worked out for you.

My guess, and it's just a guess, is that disconnecting the lines is intended to give any water a direction to expand towards.

That being said, I've read stories from several people who did not pour antifreeze into their P-traps and suffered a cracked trap. Since both ends of a P-trap are open, how could water freezing in the trap crack it?

I'd suspect the problem is that the surface of the water freezes first. Then that layer of ice on top blocks the "subsurface" water from expanding upwards when it freezes. But I dunno for sure.

If I'm correct, your method may be better than the Splendide method of just removing the lines because their method can leave water puddled in the lines if not blown out first.

Unfortunately, the manufacturer of an appliance is solely concerned about freeze damage to their unit, not the rest of the piping.

Ray

[Persistent]

Removing hoses from fitting for freezing conditions is standard procedure. This procedure is the results of experience.

Removing hoses from lawn and garden faucet and everything else that could even under unusual condition contain water is standard. Remove waste hoses as well.

Blow out should work, but experience has shown that backup techniques are warranted. There is no escaping the force of freezing water.

Life is what happens when you are planning something else.

[Ray,IN]

Originally Posted by NXR

I queried Westland for the current instructions for the 2100XC in the last month because the ones linked in the first post have a copyright date of 2004. They sent the attached PDF.

I then asked them why the PDF procedure did not specify to flush the COLD lines, just the HOT line. They read the email but did not answer. So I used antifreeze twice, both HOT and COLD, to assure both lines were cleared out.

They do not have an approved way of winterizing with just air. I'd suspect that's because of all the places that water could accumulate in the drain pump. Unlike flushing out a small diameter water line, the larger internal chamber of a pump may drop the air pressure too much to flush all of the water out.

Ray

IMO that pdf is incorrect, the old version(hot&cold settings) is correct. I agree with you. A washing machine cannot be properly winterized using only air pressure, the pump is the lowest point. There is a small plug to remove if objects are caught in the pre-pump chamber, like coins, pins, etc. When it is removed water from the pump does drain out but the valving may still contain some trapped water.
IMO it is too expensive to repair to take a chance using air only.

[WagonMaster]

Now is not the time to "cheap out" on the RV antifreeze. Bite the bullet and use the water pump to put antifreeze in every line, including the washer. On my Big Country it takes about 5 gallons to completely replace all of the water in the rig. I've been through the "great freeze" last year with no damage to any component in the rig, including the Splendid. Antifreeze is relatively cheap....

[aribert]

Originally Posted by WagonMaster

Now is not the time to "cheap out" on the RV antifreeze....Antifreeze is relatively cheap....

This is not about saving cost on antifreeze - it took a long time to flush the last traces of antifreeze odor out of the water this spring. To make matters worse, my wife is hypersensitive to smells - she smelled the odor when showering for the longest time. Using compressed air, residual antifreeze smell is not an issue. I have winterized sticks and bricks houses using compressed air.

One of my goals in using compressed air was to avoid antifreeze in the ice maker - I have a separate thread on how I am not getting compressed air when I cycle the icemaker on the Samsung RF18 fridge. The other minor issue is that the hot water tank bypass does not shut off flow to the HWT.
Not a major issue to buy an extra 10 gal of antifreeze. That said, we have the unit up for sale anyway so any residual antifreeze smell will not be an issue for us in the future. I just returned several left over gallons of RV antifreeze to the store on Saturday.

[WagonMaster]

I can understand your concerns. It does take a little while to flush the antifreeze out of the lines, and I do have a HW heater bypass so mine is drained. I actually wasn't calling you cheap but it kind of looked like it didn't it? Good luck and happy trails.