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Old 01-29-2015, 01:32 PM   #29
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Thanks twinboat, the hookup
now is positive terminal stud to inverter which has a 300amp fuse.

Seems like alot of work, maybe having the positive and negative cables made with double barrel connectors would be easiest. Then just use nuts on battery posts.
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Old 01-29-2015, 05:41 PM   #30
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Is the inverter next to the batteries?

If the power wire goes through any holes or around any corners or it is more than a few feet long it needs to be fused at the battery end before it leaves the area.

Add up cca for all 4 batteries and that is the minimum amount available upon a short to ground.
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Old 02-02-2015, 12:43 PM   #31
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Here is a link to a trailer build where the guy used a Bus Bar to combine the batteries. He shows 6v setup but it is still applicable to 12v

BoonHauler Project | Page 17 | South Bay Riders

As mentioned you would fuse from the bus bar to the rest of your setup.

This setup will share power consumption across all three batteries as well as even charging.

My 2 cents
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Old 02-02-2015, 01:14 PM   #32
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I would not use a threaded rod with a bunch of brass nuts, how could he check and tighten the connections?

A buss bar has 2, 3, 4, or more bolts to put wires on, or take off.
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Old 02-02-2015, 01:57 PM   #33
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That is a bad idea of a buss bar.

It may be engineered specific to whatever it is but in general very poor.

Needs each cable added one at a time and two wrenches to hope it stays in order.

The better plan would be a flat bar or plate and the use of 2 hole lugs so they stay put.

A good quality high amp fuse holder is likely going to have large lugs and strong mounting frame that would allow it to be used as a buss point.

One also should add strain relief clamps to the cables so they are held in place by the strain relief clamps si the terminal bolt only holds the connections to the post.
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Old 02-03-2015, 11:19 AM   #34
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Sorry, I should have looked more closely at the picture. i just keyed in on the trailer and battery bus bar text.

My point was that a bus bar would be a good way to keep the batteries in balance when charging and discharging (make sure the cables are all of equal length from the batteries to the bus bar). As always you would make sure you have proper fuses etc to protect equipment. You can make your own or buy a pre-fabricated bus bar that meets your needs.

Other examples from doing a google search: terms used RV battery bus bar
https://www.google.com/search?q=RV+b...=1920&bih=1053

A more generic search for battery bus bar pictures:
https://www.google.com/search?espv=2....0.dxjeY522K5I


I used a custom made bus bar for a solar camping setup that was basically copper bars to combine 4 12v batteries.

http://api.ning.com/files/RqRYTP80wTnt2i7FqjQD4A4w8qrF6L9*PQ7QD8HUFPt-LGGP4-5-Oz0sfS0bFSReKVrYkmbKb08qx9tge39jZj97OPK4xLDR/IMG_0690.JPG
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Old 02-03-2015, 10:11 PM   #35
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Cables do not need to be same length as this is DC not RF.

They do need to be large enough to carry load...maybe even larger if cost not much more.

Longer cables will allow for better looking and servicable system.

Just imagine an old Chevy V8 (distributor in back) and the way the spark plug wires are routed.

It is neat and orderly and your battery bay can be same.

You place the buss bar or fuse holder as buss point in a good out of the way place that is inside same compartmrnt as batteries.

Now have cables from each battery hot routed to the common point.

Some will be longer which is fine as you want them off the top of the batteries so they are easy to service.

Grounds do not need to be on a buss bar but it is a better way.

They can all be routed to a large bolt into the frame as long as frame is clean and shiny.

Star washers and stainless steel hardware best here.

Place the buss bar and ground connection away from the battery if you can to have distance from acid.
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Old 02-04-2015, 10:12 AM   #36
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In this case, the OP has a shunt for a battery monitor, the grounds need to go there, first.
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Old 02-08-2015, 06:13 PM   #37
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haven't got the cable swap done yet. trying to decide on getting a Mor-Ryde 4 battery tray first. This would change cable lengths. So, racking my head with that one.

Or get the cables made to parallel the batteries with double barrel stud posts connectors. Nobody has them locally in the San Jose/ or Fremont area I can find.
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Old 02-15-2015, 01:08 AM   #38
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To answer the OP's original question it really does not matter. Just make sure all the positives are connected together and all of the negatives are connected together
since they are 12 volts it is going to appear as one big 12 volt battery. Do not worry about making all of the cables the same length. As someone pointed out. With the size of cables we are talking about has to be several feet to see a difference. You are not going to run off of one battery, you are going to run off of all the batteries at once.
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