Community Forums

medarwin · 02-01-2023, 02:46 PM

Hello, Once again looking for experience, advice and ideas. I have a Norcold 1201LRIM in an '02 Winnie. The fridge cooling unit was replaced at some point under a recall by the PO. I'm guessing '06-'07.

Problem: We just unhooked this morning and when I disconnected the AC, the propane did not ignite. Had been working perfectly at the beginning of the trip (5 days) and worked fine during a brief power outage at the campground overnight (power went out, fridge kicked over to propane seamlessly). When we got home, I discovered that:

The valve opens and propane flows as it should.

There is NO spark (ignitor was just replaced last summer and gap is good).

Putting a multimeter on the hot lead on the board to the ignitor wire did not show any voltage "pulsing" while turning on the fridge (propane).

I can light the propane manually and it cools just fine, meaning the flame sensor is sending a pulse to the control board.

I have 12v going into the board.

Questions:

Has anyone else had a similar situation? I've read lots of old posts but couldn't find one that matched my problem exactly.

Should my multimeter be able to pick up the pulses from the board to the ignitor? It's a not a super high end meter but it isn't junk either. (I'm trying to rule out an early failure on the new ignitor I put in last year). I did get a flash reading on the ignitor connection on the board one of the times I turned the fridge/propane on. About 5.4v but I couldn't replicate it any other time.

Maybe I should just save myself time and spend $120 for a new board? ( I really hate working back there behind all that wiring and plumbing and am trying avoid that. Plus I don't want to spend the $120)

I know there is a fuse inside the board box that I haven't checked yet, does that protect the ignitor circuit or is it for something else?

Anyone have any advice or experience with this problem? Thanks in advance if anyone can help.

Cheers.

MrMark52 · 02-01-2023, 03:54 PM

You won’t be able to test the pulse voltage without likely destroying your meter. The voltage is several thousand volts.

Make sure all ground bonding connections for the control and spark gap are good and clean.

Yes - check the fuse. If blown, try replacing and if it blows again - you may need another new board.
Check for warranty on board - and if you do have to buy another - only use one from Dinosaur Electronics, they build good stuff and a 3 year warranty.

Old-Biscuit · 02-01-2023, 05:04 PM

Fuse has to be OK otherwise you would not have any Display or gas valve opening because fridge requires DC to function (DC Fuse Auto Blade 3A or 5A depending on Circuit Board used)
*Other fuse is for AC (5A Glass Fuse)

Spark Electrode is dual purpose
Supplies HIGH Voltage for ignition (~2000VDC)
Return path for Flame Proving signal......few milliamps

No Spark.........
Never test LP with Spark Electrode disconnected....can fry the circuit
Test Continuity
Spark Gap....1/8" - 3/16"

If connection to transformer is clean/tight and gap correct.....no spark
Then circuit board is bad
*DC goes to Gas Valve and Electrode at same time but 2 separate circuits

OEM Spark Electrode is cheap part $12-$16
Norcold 638097
Dino Board for replacement ----- need to ID which Circuit Board you have (OEM number on board)
See pg 9 parts list Item #2 (3 different boards)
https://norcold.com/wp-content/uploa...0_20200513.pdf

Dinosaur Electronics
6212XX most likely
6212XX page

medarwin · 02-02-2023, 06:38 AM

Correct board is #628661, my unit serial # is 1005568. Dinosaur does not manufacture that replacement board. Boards are as low as $50 on Ebay, up to $135 on Amazon. I will swap out the ingnitor for a spare one that I carry. Maybe I should buy a board anyway just to have an extra on a long trip. Pays to be prepared when you have a Norcold I've learned.

MrMark52 · 02-02-2023, 07:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by medarwin

Pays to be prepared when you have a Norcold I've learned.

FWIW - you only hear about the ones that fail - not about the ones that are working.

No relative comparison of those that fail versus the numbers produced.

There are inherent issues with adsorption Those issues have to be weighed against the benefits for the intended use of the unit - boon-docking with minimal electrical power use or always connected to an adequate source of power,

Old-Biscuit · 02-02-2023, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by medarwin

Correct board is #628661, my unit serial # is 1005568. Dinosaur does not manufacture that replacement board. Boards are as low as $50 on Ebay, up to $135 on Amazon. I will swap out the ingnitor for a spare one that I carry. Maybe I should buy a board anyway just to have an extra on a long trip. Pays to be prepared when you have a Norcold I've learned.

Unfortunately Dino does NOT have a replacement board (wonder why??)
Anyway for $52 I would gamble on an Ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/39360759420...Cclp%3A2047675

Old-Biscuit · 02-03-2023, 04:55 PM

Photo you sent looks like a 621271001 board.....for 1200 s/n under yours

So it must have been changed out at some time (optical board also)

Look closely at faded numbers just under the 12VDC wire terminals

medarwin · 02-04-2023, 05:17 AM

Thank you. I'm guessing the board was changed out during the recall work. Here's a link to a board that visually matches mine and carries the same marking of 1078-83- 700(G) in lieu of (D).

https://www.amazon.com/Norcold-62127...2-63e904010ad0

Dinosaur has DOES HAVE a replacement board for the same price. That is, if I have the correct board:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...BEMTUJZW&psc=1

Old-Biscuit · 02-04-2023, 09:21 AM

Dino Board hands down

Just make sure you set the Jumper correctly
https://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/...stallation.pdf

MrMark52 · 02-04-2023, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by medarwin

Thank you. I'm guessing the board was changed out during the recall work. Here's a link to a board that visually matches mine and carries the same marking of 1078-83- 700(G) in lieu of (D).

https://www.amazon.com/Norcold-62127...2-63e904010ad0

Dinosaur has DOES HAVE a replacement board for the same price. That is, if I have the correct board:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...BEMTUJZW&psc=1

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Dino Board hands down

Just make sure you set the Jumper correctly
https://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/...stallation.pdf

Totally concur with O-B!

Dinosaur is the “go to” for any MoHo electronics!

Guzowskip · 02-05-2023, 05:20 AM

Hello Everyone!

Bottom LIne Up Front: Don't buy a new controller board.... yet!

This is a longish post but our ordeal was very vexing and I want to be complete in my description of the resolution which cost us virtually nothing except a little time. Bear with me and you may luck into a pleasant surprise like I did.

To the OPs question, my answer is "Yes, we had the same problem but sort of in reverse." AFAIK, the Norcold N611 in our 06 Winnebago View was original to the coach because we had a great deal of maintenance documentation from both previous owners and none of it contained anything regarding work on the fridge.

Our fridge ran fine on 110v but started acting up on LP about 2 years ago. At first it would light and run fine when the vehicle was stationary but would flame out once we were underway. Eventually, it would no longer stay lit even when we were stopped. Troubleshooting showed the LP safety valve would open, the burner would light, igniter keep sparking and shut down after 30 seconds. I did have quite a bit of rust (we do live in Florida not far from the Gulf) so I tried to replace the burner orifice but could not get the old one off (argh!) so just banged on it with a wrench till a bunch of rust fell down. I DID NOT poke anything in the flame holes in the orifice.

Still no luck keeping it going so I suspected the igniter (return circuit?) and ordered a new one which I still have as a spare since it turned out we didn't need it after all.

Because of its age and the amount of rust on the boiler/cooling stack we decided to have JC Refrigeration in Shipshewanna, IN rebuild the fridge with their vaunted Dutch Aire (aka Amish mod) stack since we would be near there while visiting my brother in NW OH. In the process, they installed the new orifice, the boiler temp sensor for the ARP fridge defend, tested everything and pronounced the fridge good to go. The whole process took about two hours start to finish for their flat rate (at the time) of $200. The fridge ran like a champ (much more efficiently, BTW) all the way home to FL so I figured our woes were over.... Not so fast. Our aforementioned problems arose again.

I was right on the cusp of ordering the Dinosaur controller when I happened on a post from someone who described a similar problem and suggested checking the security of the round module where the igniter connects to the controller (check the picture of the board you linked at Amazon). He said if the module wiggles at all that could be the problem. So I checked and sure enough it was loose. I removed the board and when I did the module fell off in my hand.

Turns out the solder joints connecting the module's pins to the circuit board had failed over time probably due just to vibration (no sign of overheating). Luckily the configuration of the pins meant the module could only go back in one way and 15 minutes with my trusty pencil soldering iron got it secured back onto the board. I did check all the fuses before reassembling.

Voila! Fridge lit and ran fine on LP again. We were very relieved as we love our absorptive fridge... though I do sometimes wish it had a 12v mode like out last one did when running down the road. The best news was we did not need a new controller board so saved $200+.

In the end, I'm not sure any RV tech would have found this problem unless she/he had encountered if previously which is doubtful. I'm sure I would have been urged to buy either a new controller or even a new fridge absent my persistent troubleshooting and analysis.

On a related note, I previously mentioned the ARP Fridge Defend which I installed after my trip to JC Refrigeration. This is a very clever system which shuts the fridge down temporarily if the boiler starts overheating and restarts it when the temp comes back to acceptable limits. I have no monetary interest in this company but would highly recommend anyone with an absorptive fridge look into this device. It's relatively cheap insurance for peace of mind to avoid an RV fridge fire.

Hope this long post has provided some insights. Send me a PM if you want to discuss further which we can do via email/phone.

Happy Trails and good luck!

Paul and Chris Guzowski
06 Winnebago View in NW FL

NXR · 02-05-2023, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by medarwin

Hello, Once again looking for experience, advice and ideas. I have a Norcold 1201LRIM in an '02 Winnie. The fridge cooling unit was replaced at some point under a recall by the PO. I'm guessing '06-'07.

I was not aware of any Norcold recall that replaced any cooling units or control boards. The only one(s) I've seen were the recalls that installed the over-temperature detection switch and the separate control box with the red LED.

https://norcold.com/recall-information/ and https://rvbusiness.com/norcold-furth...erator-recall/

Article with pics of the recall on a 2002 Holiday Rambler Vacationer: https://www.happilyrv.com/norcold-re...all-need-know/

Old-Biscuit (hopefully) will clarify this but there is a chance that the previous owner gave you bad information. If so that means you may still have the original cooling unit.

Do you have that recall box shown in the last link? It may be in a different location. It will have a red LED on the front of it that will only illuminate when a fault is detected.

Although this will not affect your propane problem, it is possible that recall to help prevent the fridge from burning your coach to the ground never was done. The presence or absence of that extra box will tell.

Ray

medarwin · 02-07-2023, 05:37 AM

Thanks for the replies and advice.

Guzowskip, Spark module seems fine, not loose, board is still attached, I will remove completely once the Dino board arrives today. There IS some discoloration under a blue module on the left above the tube fuse that appears to be a result of overheating.

The board in the unit is definitely a 6212XXX per my clarification discussions with Old Biscuit. How or why it is in there I do not know, Norcold says the only board installed in 1201LRIM with my serial # is the 628661.

I'm not crazy about spending $250 for the new board but after much head scratching and messages to and from Old Biscuit I there doesn't seem to be any other possible fault.

NXR, I have the paper work for the "Cooling Unit Replacement" that was done in 2014, 2 yrs before I acquired the coach The Norcold tag evidencing the replacement is attached to the wiring. The kit did NOT contain a new board. Parts list is:
Foamed Cooling Unit assy, Screws, Thermal mastic tubes, Temp monitor control, thermocouple, Wire(s) and the re-work label, warranty card and literature/kit install instructions.

BTW, if anyone needs a 628166 board that Dinosaur electronics doesn't sell, they will re-build it for you. Cost unknown as I did not ask.

medarwin · 02-09-2023, 03:02 PM

Well, the new board is in and working perfectly. And Guzowskip, you were RIGHT. Once I removed the board I saw that the igniter module solder joint WAS loose, ever so slightly. There was some black soot on the solder bead indicating it probably had been occasionally arcing until it failed completely. I re-soldered it and believe it will work perfectly. I could remove the new board and return to amazon but it's a real PITA to get back out with all the plumbing and wiring and: I have a better board in the Dino. I have a 3 year warranty on the new board. The old board had some heat scorching underneath one of the modules. So I will keep it as an emergency replacement as all fridge functions worked with the exception of the spark module and I have likely corrected that. Thanks to all that helped w advice, especially Old Biscuit.

And if you can't tell what board is on your fridge, you can pull the control eyebrow in the coach and cross reference that board number to find out what main board part # it communicates with. Good chance the board on your fridge isn't the one Norcold says it is!