Ham + GMRS antenna setup

[AnotherMike]

Originally Posted by Deep Water D

Larsen makes a shorty dual-bander with a base spring. Perfect for a RV roof. I have mine mounted to an aluminum box screwed to the roof with some 1/2" aluminum stock screwed to the box for radials. This setup works great. I've beat it up pretty good a few times on trees with no ill effects. You can also swap the shorty out for a larger antenna when you're parked, but this thing works so well I've never bothered. The aluminum stock radials are rigid enough that they don't flop around in the wind.

Originally Posted by redbaron73

Do you have a part or model number of the antenna ?

Originally Posted by Deep Water D

https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/lsn-nmo2-70sh

The DX Engineering web page says no longer available, but according to the manufacturers web page it's still being made (see page 25).
https://www.pulseelectronics.com/doc...Volume%202.pdf

These guys say that have them in stock... (take out the extra spaces):
http s:// www. theantennafarm. com/catalog/larsen-nmo2-70b-1712

Mike

[islandboy54]

RedBaron73 - can you help me understand why you past the antenna cables through where you did? To me, that area looks like it would be above the ceiling. I was thinking it would be a clear shot to an open cavity and the windshield pillar area if I drilled a hole where you have your white antenna mounted, but I have never done this to a new Newmar. Thanks.

[redbaron73]

Originally Posted by islandboy54

RedBaron73 - can you help me understand why you past the antenna cables through where you did? To me, that area looks like it would be above the ceiling. I was thinking it would be a clear shot to an open cavity and the windshield pillar area if I drilled a hole where you have your white antenna mounted, but I have never done this to a new Newmar. Thanks.

I had an existing cable run to that location ad a special. I followed the path when running more so that I didn't need to drill another hole.

In hindsight, you are correct. Much easier and shorter to go up into the cab.

Drill your hole on top and then inside, and use a tool to grab the wire where you want it. It is a big open void.

Removing ceiling light pucks helps to see inside the area.

[YC1]

Looks like the one antenna installed is a good setup.

Move 8-10 inches either way approximately and use a "trunk lip" mount just as you have for a simple 6 inch whip antenna. A Motorola mount will work well. The six inch rod will work great. Easy to change and the mount is also called an NMO.

The 6 inch rod will last for years but take it off once in awhile to clean and inspect.

You can use an 18-22 inch rod (look for the correct length one) on the same type of mount but put it about 24 inches away from the others. A simple stinger rod but just a longer version of the 450mhz range one will work great.

Far too much loss if you run a long way with coax. If you were using repeaters and in decent ranges then those losses are not critical but wanting to caravan using simplex (car to car), keep those losses at a minimum.

I would not use a glass mount. Just too lossy for your use.

[Slolane]

Fairly new Ham here, I've been wondering about putting a radio in the coach. Our Dutch Star does not have a rear ladder and we're already at 12' so a roof antenna is out.

I have a Yaesu FTM-400 in the Jeep we tow, so thinking about just using an HT and using the Yaesu as a cross band repeater. I just don't want to run the battery down in the Jeep, wondering how much juice it will actually use, I run a Blue Ox Patriot brake system in the Jeep as well.

[YC1]

A simple stinger-type antenna is flexible. I would need to see a picture of your roof for a better assessment.

As for the current draw, if you are talking so much you have to worry about a run down battery I suspect you are having some major driver distraction.

Use your "ham license" learning to calculate the current draw using Ohm's law. Find out your transmitter power and allow for at least 1/4 more for losses.

[Mark_K5LXP]

A unity gain antenna up high beats a gain antenna down low so I would nix the crossband idea. Using crossband you don't have control over the radio so that'd be another check in the no column. A no-gain dual band antenna is about 16" long, likely shorter than your A/C unit. It will survive the occasional tree branch encounters easily.

Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM

[NXR]

Consider a COMPACtenna. It does not use a traditional ground plane. HRO has several models listed and some are 2M/440.

https://compactenna.com/

Ray