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Old 03-09-2018, 06:03 PM   #71
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The TM-2030 and SC-2030 are all installed. Fishing wires took a good bit of time and the battery box space is limited, so it was slow going there too. Just as I was buttoning up the entry steps where the battery's live, FedEx pulled up....yep the third panel has arrived!

I installed the new panel, and it's definitely not the same as the Renogy....will test individual output later and compare. I bought the waterproof M4 connector crimping tool and only had to build the two ends at the 6ga termination point.

I fired up the panels then tried to program the TM-2030....am I the only one that finds Bogarts instructions confusing? Each 6v Trojan is 210 amp hours @ 20 hrs so if they are in series(which they are) then I enter 210 in the P3 mode. So, now how do I lock that in? I thought I had it set, then I go back and it's on the default....220...what the?
Motor7,

You need to program P22 first then program P3. P22 pre-programs the needed settings to the common Battery brand, and then you make adjustments you your exact needs after programing P22, other wise it overwrites what you put in. If you want to program each setting yourself, then don't program P22. This is likely why your P3 got earased and set to 220. This is explained on top of page 16 in the SC2030 manual.
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Old 03-09-2018, 07:57 PM   #72
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I left it parked in the sun for two full days of sun. Peak voltage showing was 13.9, however it never showed fully "charged". I backed it back into it's shed and plugged it in and still does not show fully charged.

Reading through the mountain of programing paperwork it repeats that this happens if something is left connected between battery's and shunt. There is nothing except the negative battery cable to my shunt, then all other neg connections to the other side of the shunt.

I set it up for 210 amps(that is each 6v's 20 capacity), and on the Trojan setting(#3 in P22). There has been zero load on the system, so is that why the battery's won't show full since the 2030 has not seen a drop in voltage yet?
Motor7,

That would be correct. You need to put a load on the system and bring the voltage down below 12.4v, it will need one to two cycles and then the percent full should start working and show 100% when the batteries charge back up.
When the meter was showing 13.9v, was the green charge light, located above the red LED readout, blinking or solid green???
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Old 03-09-2018, 08:24 PM   #73
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Your system should work out pretty good for you. Having a lot of experience with batteries and chargers over the years, I'm a big fan of the Bogart SC2030 trimetric combination. It's about perfect for lead acid batteries. When you get it installed you'll want to program the Trimetric for 4 stage charging, which does wonders for getting a full charge into your batteries in a short solar day.
Searching_UT,

I fully agree with you, I'm also a big fan. Ralph (owner of Bogart) has built quite a potent system, a lot of bang for the buck. He also does a great job explaining all the misnomers and exaggeration about MPPT vs PWM charge controllers and also their different purposes/applications. It is on his website in the FAQ section.

Your signature says you have a 1KW system. I assume you are running a split system with two SC2030 controllers tied to the TM2030???
I have a hair under 1KW and that is the way mine is set up. Being that it's a split system, it also adds redundancy, if something were to go wrong. The four stage charging sure packs quite a punch!
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Old 03-10-2018, 04:53 AM   #74
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Motor7,

That would be correct. You need to put a load on the system and bring the voltage down below 12.4v, it will need one to two cycles and then the percent full should start working and show 100% when the batteries charge back up.
When the meter was showing 13.9v, was the green charge light, located above the red LED readout, blinking or solid green???
Thanks for the clarification Beach, I will go back in and set it up the way you explained. I had a solid green light @ 13.9v. After parking it in the shed and being on shore power for a day the solid greed light was out and if I remember right it was showing 12.6v. As soon as I turned one a few things, I watched the amp load increase and the solid green light came back on so it appears it is all working correctly.

I have printed out the instructions for both the TM ans SC 2030 and read them several times, but for this pea brain it's a lot to absorb

Headed to Myrtle Beach SP in a little over a week, so the plan is to set up, but not plug into shore power and monitor use over a couple of days to get a feel for it's capabilities since we won't need the A/C.

Also, the coach came with a 300 Watt inverter, which I disconnected when I gutted the old 800 lb TV, VCR/DVD player and about 50' of cable. We don't watch TV, but I did install a 20" flat screen for the grandkids, so I will hook the inverter back up and plug the TV & new Blue Ray into it for them. I have a hunch it's going to be a power hog, so it will be interesting to see how my system can keep up with it.

Next will be getting rid of the Sat Dish on the roof, and replacing the old Wineguard with a King Jack.
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Old 03-10-2018, 11:37 AM   #75
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Thanks for the clarification Beach, I will go back in and set it up the way you explained. I had a solid green light @ 13.9v. After parking it in the shed and being on shore power for a day the solid greed light was out and if I remember right it was showing 12.6v. As soon as I turned one a few things, I watched the amp load increase and the solid green light came back on so it appears it is all working correctly.

I have printed out the instructions for both the TM ans SC 2030 and read them several times, but for this pea brain it's a lot to absorb

Headed to Myrtle Beach SP in a little over a week, so the plan is to set up, but not plug into shore power and monitor use over a couple of days to get a feel for it's capabilities since we won't need the A/C.

Also, the coach came with a 300 Watt inverter, which I disconnected when I gutted the old 800 lb TV, VCR/DVD player and about 50' of cable. We don't watch TV, but I did install a 20" flat screen for the grandkids, so I will hook the inverter back up and plug the TV & new Blue Ray into it for them. I have a hunch it's going to be a power hog, so it will be interesting to see how my system can keep up with it.

Next will be getting rid of the Sat Dish on the roof, and replacing the old Wineguard with a King Jack.
Motor7,

Being that you have Trojan batteries, per Trojan Specs they should float at 13.4V, so if voltage was only showing 12.6V while plugged in, that is not enough. The instruction are a bit heavy, but once all is programmed in, the TM2030 is really easy to use, and provides a lot of useful needed information.

As for not plugging in, yes that's good, you will not only be able to monitor and test the system, with the safety of plugging it in if needed, but you will also have a chance to exercise your batteries, which they need. Batteries tend to do much better when they are cycled, compared to just sitting there.
If the TV is going to be your only large power draw, I think you will do pretty well, especially with the spring sun.
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Old 05-19-2018, 10:44 AM   #76
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Thanks for the clarification Beach, I will go back in and set it up the way you explained. I had a solid green light @ 13.9v. After parking it in the shed and being on shore power for a day the solid greed light was out and if I remember right it was showing 12.6v. As soon as I turned one a few things, I watched the amp load increase and the solid green light came back on so it appears it is all working correctly.

I have printed out the instructions for both the TM ans SC 2030 and read them several times, but for this pea brain it's a lot to absorb

Headed to Myrtle Beach SP in a little over a week, so the plan is to set up, but not plug into shore power and monitor use over a couple of days to get a feel for it's capabilities since we won't need the A/C.
Motor7,

How is the solar setup working out for you?
If you can, please give feedback, so we know how well the system works, also others might be interested in the setup you have.
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Old 05-20-2018, 06:16 PM   #77
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I had some overcharging issues(there is a thread on it here someplace). I think I got that figured out, so we packed up and rolled out for 3 weeks of AZ, UT and CO with plans to mostly boondock. A seized brake caliper & 3 fire extinguisher fire 120 miles from home canceled the trip. We did have to stay at a Love's for about 24 hrs arraigning for the tow and the solar performed perfectly.

Coach is still in the shop, it's week 3.......
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Old 05-20-2018, 11:09 PM   #78
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Motor7,

Sorry to hear about you mishap, I'm glad you were able to put the fire out. I don't know what caused your seized caliper, but they say to lube the caliper sliders every two years.

Can you elaborate on the overcharging?
What was the cause and solution? Wrong settings on the Trimetric?
Can you post a link regarding this issue, as I'm curious. BTW, I have never had overcharging issue on my Bogart system. If you have any more issues and have questions regarding this, your more than welcome to PM me and we can discuss this further.
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Old 05-22-2018, 01:07 AM   #79
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Motor7,

Sorry to hear about you mishap, I'm glad you were able to put the fire out. I don't know what caused your seized caliper, but they say to lube the caliper sliders every two years.

Can you elaborate on the overcharging?
What was the cause and solution? Wrong settings on the Trimetric?
Can you post a link regarding this issue, as I'm curious. BTW, I have never had overcharging issue on my Bogart system. If you have any more issues and have questions regarding this, your more than welcome to PM me and we can discuss this further.
Here ya go:

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f56/tm2030-went-postal-383191.html
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Old 05-22-2018, 09:05 AM   #80
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Some numbers..
As I recall Trojan suggests a charge rate of 10% C/20 or less.
C/20 for those batteries is about 220 amp hours so 10% is 22 amps. NOTE this is for re-charging.. And it gives longest overall battery life.

Xantrex suggests a re-charge rate of no more than 30% C/20 or rounded slightly 65 amps.. This is the best comprise between Battery Life and Recharge time.. I'd say Xantrex, who makes converters and inverters did their research.

LIFELINE for their AGM"S recommends a faster charge but his is brand and type specific and applies ONLY to Lifeline AGMs.

Damon put a pair of Interstate U-2200's which are roughly equal to the T-105's in my house and an 80 amp converter.. OF course this not only feeds the house bu the chassis (an additial 75 amp hours) and the needs of the house.. Which include a 100 Watt Radio Transmitter from time to time.

Your panels are good as a "Battery Tender" type maintainer but if you are USING the batteries ... I'd say they can barely keep up with control power for the fridge, water heater and A/C's. In fact I'm not sure they can keep up with the needs.. NOTE I am speaking only of CONTROL power. not operating power which there is no way they can do that.

Would I add additional panels. Depebnds on my electrical usage. I'm a big Electrical user (See 100 watt radio transamiter and trhat is just ONE of the 2-way radios in this ride (There are 4 hooked to the batterires plus a batch of hand helds).
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Old 05-22-2018, 07:04 PM   #81
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wa8yxm,

Fridge is 3way....almost zero amp draw. No tv. We do use 12v to charge devices, run water pump, power led lights and run some fans.

Hot water is propane. If we need the microwave or a/c it's genny time
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Old 05-24-2018, 02:06 AM   #82
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Motor7,

I posted on your postal thread, regarding your charge controller and settings.
I wish you would have PM'd me, as I could have helped. I was only subscribed to this thread and didn't know you started a new thread and were having issues.
I hope you get your coach back soon!
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