Cold weather boondocking....help to narrow the search

[ModestMonk]

After months and months and gigabytes and gigabytes searching we cannot find the exact travel trailer that is absolutely perfect!

So now I reach out and need some input from anyone who has direct knowledge of any of the following models....installing solar within and balancing weight.

Arctic Fox 22G
Nash 17K, 22H, 23B, 23D, 24M**
Outdoors RV/Creekside 20FQ, 21RBS, 22RB, 23RBS, 23BHS**



A major parameter is:

I do not want to break 7000 pound GVWR barrier. So as we narrow our search for the perfect layout with the included necessities, now are pushing weights on some of the trailers we want, when solar is added.

So I'm reaching out wondering if anyone here on the list is dealt with any of these trailer models?

Then can we install a serious Boondocking system with what type of batteries?

Batteries should be stored where ? installed where and how?

Solar ready means what?

I'm hoping I've placed this in the most appropriate place to discuss this? I've spent the day searching in reading scores of posts it seemed appropriate I hope I didn't miss any.



Thanks for your interest!

[baphenatem]

Is there a perfect trailer or RV of any sort? Personally, I'd also be looking at a Bigfoot, but they too suffer from the same malady as all the rest, i.e. forced air furnaces suck up a tremendous amount of energy from a battery bank. The key is to calculate how much energy you use on a daily basis and how many days of autonomy that you'd like to have. Then the system can be designed and the determination of weight and battery storage space evaluated.


Tom - KK8M: UL Certified PV Installer, ISA Level 2 I&C Technician, Licensed Electrician - MI

[Reed Cundiff]

I would suggest considering a catalytic propane heater such as Olympian Wave. We have an 8000 BTU unit in our fifth wheel and a 3000 BTU unit in our Roadtrek. The 8000 BTU will keep the main cabin in the fifth wheel in the 50's at 20 F and the 3000 BTU unit will do the same in the Roadtrek.

The Roadtrek propane is T'ed off the attachment to the forced air heater and the propane for the 5th wheel is T'ed off the propane to the stove. We make sure that the propane warners are working and that there is the required three square inches of opening to the outside.

These heaters use no electricity and quite small amounts of propane. The 3000 BTU uses only about 1/8 lb of propane per hour.

We do turn on the forced air heater on cold mornings for 10 minutes or so to get the cabin heated. We also do like sleeping at temperatures in the 40s.

Reed and Elaine

[jackfish]

Consider replacing propane and 12VDC hogs Suburban and Atwood furnaces with efficient Propex units. In addition, vented catalytic heaters are better than Olympic or Mr. Heater catalytic heaters.

Propex North America • Propex Heatsource USA and Canada

http://ventedcatheater.com/6.html

[ModestMonk]

Originally Posted by jackfish

Consider replacing propane and 12VDC hogs Suburban and Atwood furnaces with efficient Propex units. In addition, vented catalytic heaters are better than Olympic or Mr. Heater catalytic heaters.

Propex North America • Propex Heatsource USA and Canada

http://ventedcatheater.com/6.html

It says that it vents and draws fresh air I'll need to investigate further very interesting

[dexters]

Originally Posted by ModestMonk

A major parameter is:

I do not want to break 7000 pound GVWR barrier.

Why?

Originally Posted by ModestMonk

Then can we install a serious Boondocking system with what type of batteries?

Usually stored on the tongue of the TT. Unless you want to rig something into the bed of your pick up truck

Batteries should be stored where ? installed where and how?

Solar ready means what?
The wires are run from the roof to the controller and batteries.

[ModestMonk]

Tongue weight wood be an issue with the add of batteries so I'm onto a system in the PU bed. We've been discussing it here

[dexters]

Originally Posted by ModestMonk

Tongue weight wood be an issue with the add of batteries so I'm onto a system in the PU bed. We've been discussing it here

What about the other question?

[ModestMonk]

Originally Posted by dexters

What about the other question?

Same issue limitations of the tow vehicle

[LarryW21]

A 100 watt panel from Windy Nation is 18 pounds and their MPPT 30 amp controller is less than five. IMO if these "additional" solar pounds blows your weight goals you are in big trouble. Your child or DW wants to bring her bike? NO NO NO! You want a case of wine? NO NO NO! I'd re-evaluate my trailer choice or TV.

[ModestMonk]

The nominal weight items aren't an issue. Adding the needed battery bank directly on the tongue, unless counter balanced behind the axles simply adds to an unbalanced load. Loading them into the bed of the truck, in front of the trucks axle is making sense for how we want to use them.

[Reed Cundiff]

We have LFP battery suite on both Roadtrek and 34' 5th wheel. They are not ideal for cold weather camping unless you have a method of keeping them above 32 F. They discharge with no problem but there are problems with most forms of LFP when charging at high C. There are supposed to be more modern forms of LFP that can be charged at low temperature - but costs go up even more.

Our battery suite is under the bed of the Roadtrek and our son installed a blower that will blow five volumes of battery area per minute when temperature of compartment goes below 35 F or so. We keep the sleeping compartment above 50 at night with the Olympic Wave 3 and when awake at night, we can hear the blower turning on. We just place two 30 W bulbs (12 V) in the battery compartment of the 5th wheel (the front bay) and that will keep the compartment in mid-30s when it is 20 outside.

In summer, the blower goes on at around 95 F and we generally try to keep the living area below 90. We have sufficient solar and battery suite to run the Roadtrek a/c for several hours each day without utilizing the on-board generator (which we have only run for 30 minutes a month as per manual). We just leave the front door and the propane bottle access doors of the front bay open on hot days. The front bay is below the king pin so it does not get direct sunlight (close off the propane access door in direct sunlight). We put a remote thermometer (usually about $15 at Home Depot and elsewhere) so we do know the temperature. We have a couple of 12 V fans (10 W) to move air across the batteries when it does get warm.

But back to OP questions. An Arctic Fox can probably take 600 to 800 W of solar. We have 415 W on a 19' Roadtrek. Standard battery suite would fit on tongue as noted by Dexters. Note that either the Wynns or "Wheeling it" put their LFP battery suite in bedroom area by removing a few drawers in a cabinet. This permits keeping the suite warm in winter and cool in summer.

Reed and Elaine

[ModestMonk]

Originally Posted by Reed Cundiff

We have LFP battery suite on both Roadtrek and 34' 5th wheel. They are not ideal for cold weather camping unless you have a method of keeping them above 32 F. They discharge with no problem but there are problems with most forms of LFP when charging at high C. There are supposed to be more modern forms of LFP that can be charged at low temperature - but costs go up even more.

Our battery suite is under the bed of the Roadtrek and our son installed a blower that will blow five volumes of battery area per minute when temperature of compartment goes below 35 F or so. We keep the sleeping compartment above 50 at night with the Olympic Wave 3 and when awake at night, we can hear the blower turning on. We just place two 30 W bulbs (12 V) in the battery compartment of the 5th wheel (the front bay) and that will keep the compartment in mid-30s when it is 20 outside.

In summer, the blower goes on at around 95 F and we generally try to keep the living area below 90. We have sufficient solar and battery suite to run the Roadtrek a/c for several hours each day without utilizing the on-board generator (which we have only run for 30 minutes a month as per manual). We just leave the front door and the propane bottle access doors of the front bay open on hot days. The front bay is below the king pin so it does not get direct sunlight (close off the propane access door in direct sunlight). We put a remote thermometer (usually about $15 at Home Depot and elsewhere) so we do know the temperature. We have a couple of 12 V fans (10 W) to move air across the batteries when it does get warm.

But back to OP questions. An Arctic Fox can probably take 600 to 800 W of solar. We have 415 W on a 19' Roadtrek. Standard battery suite would fit on tongue as noted by Dexters. Note that either the Wynns or "Wheeling it" put their LFP battery suite in bedroom area by removing a few drawers in a cabinet. This permits keeping the suite warm in winter and cool in summer.

Reed and Elaine

Too much heat more than likely won't be an issue. So, if my compartment within the bed of the truck is insulated and has a small heater or heat pads would that make sense?

Remember if I'm going Boondocking in the cold weather months I need to track the sun a bit better to get decent solar gain. The panels operate more efficiently in the cold weather but as you're stating I need to worry about the battery temps. So the optimum temperature is a must, what are those temps?