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Old 12-20-2020, 08:32 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StepandWolf View Post
I found the Will Prowse videos excellent but I found another source of even better information regarding how to set a system up:

https://www.explorist.life/50a-campe...iring-diagram/

He has the best drawn, most complete diagrams. He shows a variety of configurations with every single wire, connector, etc. defined. He even provides a shopping list of parts. He is also available for paid consults. His diagrams can be printed in hi-res with a freely provided PDF.

He also developed a wire gauge and fuse size calculator. If you have the cajones to do what it sounds like you are doing, you should definitely be able to follow this guy's instructions.

There is very little difference between a FLB install vs. lithium install, just a big savings, longer life, and far less hassles and weight.
I am glad you mentioned Nate (explorist) as a resource. I did use him as well. Matter of fact because he had the layout of 6 panels I wanted is the final push I had to start this effort.

I am terrible at mentioning sources, but everything I have done has been because of folks on this forum and Youtube. Not just Will and Nate, but a few others I can't remember also.
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Old 12-21-2020, 06:47 AM   #72
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Roof Install Solution

I finally found an adhesive that would stick to tropicool. I tried 4-5 different things ranging from simple silicone sealants (3m,henry), to VHB 96042(recommended by 3m), to other henry products, but it turns out that Henry Flashing and Construction Sealant 900 works best. While its not 600 rated like 3m 5200 its good especially combined with 12 screws in each panel. Below is pics of what I will use. Starting today I will getter done, I hope!!
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Old 12-22-2020, 02:12 PM   #73
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Done, except for cleanup and ongoing education

I had hoped to complete my install yesterday, but I got an email from Henry Tech support that the HE900 adhesive would not work with tropicool. I went and rechecked my test and upon a more thorough inspection they were right. They told me I had to get HE884 or he885. I found it in stock 50 miles away. Road trip cost me 2.5 hours so I inly got 3 panels installed before I ran out of screws too. Dang, another trip to Lowes.

So this am I started by re-cleaning all the points of contact on roof and wiping dry. Let it sit a little while for more air drying. Laid down rest of panels, fasten to roof, laid down a big amount of he884 over all screws, and some other critical points of contact. Sent wire down conduit and made all the connections in the breaker box and the 250\100. Made the final + connection complete on roof, turn on each component to ensure no mis-wiring. All looked nice and working fine.

Panels started out with ~129v. I disconnected from shore and they dropped considerable. Not sure what's happening but I don't quite understand why the BMV712 is showing negative values, etc.

Do I need to configure anything, or is this working asa expected?
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Old 12-23-2020, 07:47 AM   #74
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Thinking that while you were hooked up to shore power the inverter/charger was in float providing “x” amount of amps above what was being drawn from the battery to power items in the coach.

Once the shore power was removed it fell upon the solar controller to provide those amps. As your BMV is showing 100% then your controller should be in float mode and providing the amount of amps defined by the “tail current” setting. Enter “expert mode” listed under “battery” in the controller menu and you can adjust the “tail current”. Bump that # up an amp or two and see if puts you in the positive.

I am not running lead acids, but I've set the “tail current” just a bit under my average coach hourly amp use. Sometimes I’ll see negative and sometimes I’ll see positive flow depending on what items are drawing from the battery.
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Old 12-23-2020, 07:57 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SV K View Post
Thinking that while you were hooked up to shore power the inverter/charger was in float providing “x” amount of amps above what was being drawn from the battery to power items in the coach.

Once the shore power was removed it fell upon the solar controller to provide those amps. As your BMV is showing 100% then your controller should be in float mode and providing the amount of amps defined by the “tail current” setting. Enter “expert mode” listed under “battery” in the controller menu and you can adjust the “tail current”. Bump that # up an amp or two and see if puts you in the positive.

I am not running lead acids, but I've set the “tail current” just a bit under my average coach hourly amp use. Sometimes I’ll see negative and sometimes I’ll see positive flow depending on what items are drawing from the battery.
Thanks Kevin! Will try.....
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Old 01-12-2021, 10:53 AM   #76
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Update and ?

I stopped by NAWS and purchased a battery temperature sensor that uses bluetooth to talk to the other devices in the VE network. Turns out my batteries are too far away from the controller and the BMV712 to make a good connection and xmit temp data. The folks at NAWS didn't know how to boost the BT signals, and moving the devices closer isn't an option for me. Does anyone know how to make a connection work over longer distances with these devices?
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Old 01-12-2021, 05:00 PM   #77
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the legacy wired connection? VE.Direct
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Old 01-12-2021, 05:55 PM   #78
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the legacy wired connection? VE.Direct
No wired setup. Its all based on BT communication, just seems like the battery temp sensor does not have a good signal to reach the other components to share data. Even with the app it doesn't show unless I get within 10ft of the device.
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Old 01-13-2021, 09:52 AM   #79
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Just heard from NAWS that Victron has a long range temp sensor that reaches 10m. Mind only reaches 3m. Hopefully they will swap......
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