Inverter ground connection size

[CRV2]

Originally Posted by JHinman

The ground I refer to connects the aluminum enclosure to the trailer chassis.

The AC lines all have 3-wire connectors.

The Victron manual does not discuss the ground.

The pictures are very helpful. From what I see the setup looks great and I would not change a thing. FYI, it is common to have the exterior metal chassis of this or anything similar to this to be grounded, doing so helps lower radio interference and any potential static build up which could ruin components of the circuit boards or cause a malfunction. Most often when I have installed\repaired similar devices the ground connection is not needed when mounting the inverter (again with other similar electronics) to a metal frame and is needed when mounting as it appears in your case to a wooden structure. In any case, looks good to me and if it matters I am a certified electronics technician albeit that certification was many years ago and I only work on electronics now for a hobby. ~CA

[OldWEB]

I agree the picture works! I too would leave the present ground as is. I see in the picture the liquidtite has come out of both lower connectors, fix that though!


EDIT: Also run the data cable in the 'empty' connector (3rd from the bottom) instead of alongside the DC cable, unlikely chance, but you do not want stray signals entering it...

[CRV2]

To add to what the Old WEB stated (which I missed the liquidtite being out of the connectors (I also wonder if it is too large to fit). In any case, I would add a cable strain relief to the white control cable inside the chassis (perhaps there is one I don't see?). You likely could simply pull a little slack on the cable and then use a zip cable tie and trim it afterwards. It only needs to be large enough that if somehow the white cable gets pulled on that in doing so doesn't damage the connector of the cable or worse the circuit board. ~CA

[JHinman]

I really appreciate your help!

The flex conduit will not connect to the fittings at the bottom of the enclosure. I suppose I could McGyver it with some tape.

I was able to run the data cable through the empty fitting. That was a great tip! It snugs up on the cable enough to provide a surprising amount of strain relief. It also will keep the data cable from fretting on the side of the opening.

Again, thank you all for your help!

[Sbrownstein]

Those liquid tight glands are for "S" cable not flex conduit. In your case all you need is strain relief since you are not in a wet environment anyway. Wrap some tape if you want to trap them in the gland.

[OldWEB]

Originally Posted by Sbrownstein

Wrap some tape if you want to trap them in the gland.

And to add, some protection on the wires from the metal inside of the flex conduit.


Stay cool

[OldWEB]

From the Service manual:

and

[JHinman]

Thanks for the link to the Service Manual. It seems similar to but not the same as the manual that came with the device.

[Pappion]

Originally Posted by Persistent

Best practice is to follow instructions in the installation manual for your inverter make and model.

The ground connection on the metal box of the inverter is typically frame ground for the 120 volt side. It should be the same gauge as the system ground on the 120 volt output. It trips circuit breaker or blows a fuse when certain wiring malfunctions occur.

However, some inverters are designed to also frame ground the 12 volt side and larger gauge is required.

I like this answer. The above table shows a minimum 6AWG for AC system.

[Pappion]

Originally Posted by powercat_ras

I suggest a 6 AWG solid copper grounding conductor, as short as possible. Chances are the grounding connection on the inverter would have to be modified to take anything larger than that.

Equipment grounding conductor table

Nice table. Solid copper wire is not good for mobile operation. In my RV I would use marine grade stranded wire.