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Old 10-06-2022, 01:04 PM   #1
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Inverter relocation ground question

I have upgraded my 2002 NRV Tradewinds with a 4k 12v inverter, 4 Lithium Ion batteries, a Solar controller, and 4 roof mounted solar panels.

All systems were/are operational and I'll be glad to post some pictures if anybody would like to see the mod.

Here's the question, the new installation is directly over the water tanks in a cabinet that used to house a washer dryer combo, I had to move it from the original outside bay location because the transmission controller was causing the inverter to overheat.

I have located a place on the frame under the cabinet where I have installed a new system ground lug.

With my ohm meter set to test continuity, I am seeing 0.1 instead of 0.0 on the meter, measured between the old system ground and the new one.

Is it a problem for me to use this as the system ground for the whole setup?Click image for larger version

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Old 10-06-2022, 01:22 PM   #2
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Particularly for a high output inverter, the ground wire needs to be to the battery, NOT chassis/frame.


A 4,000 watt inverter can pull 330 amps.
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Old 10-06-2022, 02:40 PM   #3
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System ground or negative inverter cable ?

Negative inverter cable should run to the negative battery terminal.

Ground just grounds the case.
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Old 10-06-2022, 06:45 PM   #4
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Ground lug on inverter goes to frame ground. Use wire size specified in inverter installation instructions. Ohms to ground is usually not specified.
Positive lug on inverter goes to battery positive.
Negative lug on inverter goes to battery negative.
Battery negative goes to frame ground.
120 volt AC input goes to inverter 120 volt input (hot, neutral, and system ground).
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Old 10-06-2022, 10:22 PM   #5
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Sorry to not explain this well, thank you for your responses.

The ground path passes from the battery negative pole to the shunt, then to a bus bar, then to the frame of the bus. I'm wondering if the meter difference of my new frame ground location (pic 1 above the tanks) and the system ground in the old battery compartment is significant?

The meter measures .1 between the "new" frame ground and the old one in the battery compartment, in the >| setting

Thanks again for helping
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Old 10-07-2022, 07:55 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by missionrec View Post
Sorry to not explain this well, thank you for your responses.

The ground path passes from the battery negative pole to the shunt, then to a bus bar, then to the frame of the bus. I'm wondering if the meter difference of my new frame ground location (pic 1 above the tanks) and the system ground in the old battery compartment is significant?

The meter measures .1 between the "new" frame ground and the old one in the battery compartment, in the >| setting

Thanks again for helping
0.1 ohms is very low. A frame ground needs to have low resistance to perform its safety functions.

It is more important that it is configured according to code to preserve its safety functions under adverse conditions. Follow the instructions for the inverter/converter so the ground performs its safety functions when bad things happen.

Use wire size as specified. Connect it to a place required by instructions. Don't depend on "common" logic that a different way is just as good. Codes have been established primarily based on actual experience and are designed to reduce bad outcomes.

Low resistance in the positive and negative cable from the inverter/charger to the battery bank is very important for battery charging and for good performance while inverting. Getting resistance a low as possible is more important here.

I wish you good luck and happy trails ahead!
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Old 10-11-2022, 01:29 PM   #7
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Almost all systems are up and happily working, solar, inverter, shore power, and coach lithium ion batteries.

I think I may have damaged the chassis lead acid batteries however, during the interim while the inverter was down.

I noticed low electrolyte in the lead acid batteries so I pulled them and topped it off (distilled!)

When I hook them back up and the inverter/charger tries to charge them they off gas and one of them heats up... I didn't let it go so long I couldn't touch it.

The one that gets hot measures 7.68v unhooked.

The other one is 11.10v unhooked.

I am wondering if I should try charging them individually unhooked or if I should just replace them both? They are Duracell 31C (s) circa 2016.

Disconnected voltage is 13.3v from the battery positive leads to ground.

Thanks for ideas
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Old 10-11-2022, 02:02 PM   #8
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Replace the batteries, they are 7 years old.
You got your money's worth.

O'Reilly had deep cycle GP 31s for about $105 each 2 months ago.
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Old 10-11-2022, 06:26 PM   #9
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TY
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