My 675 Watts of Solar is up and running Video and Pictures
Recap I found 3, 225 watt Residential panels locally at a good price of 99 cents per watt.
With the help of the forum I chose a Morning Star 60 amp MPPT controller.
And a Bogart 2030-RV, Total amp hours of 510 4-6 volt battery's
Please let me know if i have made any mistakes in my install.
Total investment of $1600.00 prox. not including battery's of course.
Notice My custom made Mounting / hinge brackets.
Patent pending... "not really"
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Let us know how much load you can place on your system regularly and still maintain decent battery charge ...
I have a 500w panel system...4 battery (6v type) 230 amp hour system with a TS45 controller....I run a 1000 w inverter and can run the frig...minor microwave use...minor toaster use...minor coffee pot use....occasional TV...water pump...all nite medical equipment...and lights.... Have not done any cold weather MH use to see if the furnace blower would play a big negative on the system if I added that device. That would amount to the best extent of the system in my install without expanding it to handle more daytime electrical use.
Looks good. You probably have room for another 2 or 3 panels. We have six x 235 W panels (3 each in series and then both series in parallel for 90 V) so that the Morning Star 60 amp MPPT controller is only handling 14 amps at 1330 watt maximum power.
The mountings looks strong. Do you plan to tilt? and if so, to what angle?
Bbtyan I put my engine starting battery in the bay that is on the left side of my door / battery box.
I had to move the water pump on to the side behind charge the controller.
I was able to use the original battery cables also.
Here is a Video of how i did it
MG thanks for the link
I looked for some of those locally but i could not find any.
Yes on the next warm day i will get out the Dicor.
What kind of useful info will the software give me that will be better than my Bogart 2030-rv ?
The software is free. It gives you trending data. Do it now for a baseline data, then you can check it in the future if problems arise. You can also use it to test different controller configurations. Like seting different absorbtion levels or time, you can setup a wintertime setting and a summertime setting for best operation. Granite, this is more for the hardcore users, but it doesn't cost anything but a cable and some laptop time. You can even setup your controller on your local network and monitor it from any computer and anyone you give the address and password to can look at it too.
What about securing your chassis battery? It looks like a standard "wedge" style hold down would work if you don't mind drilling a hole in the floor of the compartment.
I see a lot of corrosion from your old 2 -12 volt batteries. Have you ever thought about using mineral oil in your batteries? I put 4 Oz in each cell over 2 years ago and do not have any corrosion. I do get a light oil film that I wipe away every time I top off my batteries with distilled water. Search this forum, there is a lot of information on this subject. At the very least, I would put a light coating of vasoline on the terminals. The vasoline melts around 100 degrees and will coat the terminals, once coated, the terminals are not exposed to air. No air, no corrosion formation.