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B RAD · 05-06-2022, 12:06 PM

I have had a Renogy Wanderer Li 30A controller on my two 100 watt solar panels for the past 2 years with everything working fine. Last time out camping I noticed the indicator lights were indicating a overcharged battery. Turned the panels off for a couple days and when I turned the controller back on everything seemed to be working fine so I left it on for the past two weeks and now the battery is shot and the controller was showing overcharge again. Just bought another new battery and the controller seems to be working but I am thinking it will probably overcharge the new battery so I disconnected it and plan to buy another controller. Should I get another Renogy Wanderer of try something else?

**HarryStone** · 05-06-2022, 12:51 PM

Have you actually looked at the voltage the controller is putting out?

B RAD · 05-07-2022, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HarryStone

Have you actually looked at the voltage the controller is putting out?

Went to trailer this morning turned controller back on. All the lights are solid green but I get no voltage from the where the panels are connected or from the battery output. This makes no sense to me but I think I will just spring for a new controller and see what happens....

DavidEM · 05-07-2022, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B RAD

Went to trailer this morning turned controller back on. All the lights are solid green but I get no voltage from the where the panels are connected or from the battery output. This makes no sense to me but I think I will just spring for a new controller and see what happens....

You are doing what I accuse many, probably most mechanics of doing: changing parts until something fixes it.

Get to the bottom of the voltage readings and really diagnose your problem. The controller should switch to a float voltage of something in the mid 13s when the batteries are full. It sounds like the controller is stuck in bulk or absorption mode which probably puts the voltage in the 14s when they are full. That is what ruins batteries, overcharging.

But reading zero voltage is totally wrong. I would first suspect the meter.

David

nvs4602 · 05-07-2022, 07:39 PM

If you read the manual there has to be 12v input from the battery for it to work. When installing controller or changing out the battery. The battery has to be connected first then the solar panels. So disconnect the panels.

B RAD · 05-13-2022, 04:03 PM

OP here and still trying to figure out what is going on.
Voltage at controller battery terminals is 12.20 and green batt light is on solid.
Voltage at PV terminals is 11.9 and green light is solid.
Battery voltage at battery is 12.4
What is happening and shouldn’t the green light be flashing not solid?

Now the strange part. Today I covered the Panel with cardboard and a blanket and it still produced 6.5 volts with panel disconnected from system and when connected the green PV light was still on and not blinking. Green light does go out when panel is disconnected.

xc-mark · 05-15-2022, 09:31 AM

Victron Energy , 5 year warranty if I recall. I would consider the Victron line to be the gold standard of the industry . The VRM web page is nice for long term tracking of your projects installation success .

Not sure how you turn it off but with some solar controler if the battery is turned off before the roof PV and if the PV is turned on before the battery BAD things happen. Always PV off first and on LAST. My victrons chargers have a control wire that I have a switch on to turn off the roof , With lithium battery's I will only turn off at the end of the season and on again in the spring.