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Old 10-28-2021, 08:05 PM   #1
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Solar addition question:

ok. Let’s keep this simple as I am a simple kinda guy. I have a 2006 Fleetwood terra with two Deka Pro Master GC15 Flooded 6v Deep cycle batteries. Far as I can tell I only have a converter onboard with a 5.5k Onan. I’d like to add 200 to 400 watts worth of solar panels to charge with so that I do not have to be running my gen. I am guessing I just can’t buy a simple kit and connect directly to battery as charge will also be supplied when engine/ gen are running. I’d also like the option of an inverter for tv or fan mostly. What is most reasonable solution. Thanks in advance for any input.
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Old 10-28-2021, 09:28 PM   #2
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You actually can connect a solar charge controller directly to your batteries. Not the solar panels directly, because you need an appropriate charge controller.

TV and fan do not take a lot of power, so a portable inverter that plugs into a 12-volt outlet (cigarette lighter) may be enough. Integrating a bigger inverter or inverter/charger into the AC system can be more involved.
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Old 10-28-2021, 10:16 PM   #3
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I have a 270W solar panel and a 30A MPPTcharge controller for my 2 FLA batteries. Works fine to keep them charged. I have used my genny once. It was overcast and freezing and I wanted to be sure I could run the heater most of the night. If you spend more on an mppt (versus pwm) you can buy cheaper, higher voltage panels. My panel is a 24v residential panel. I got it new for 160ish. You can get used residential panels super cheap, like less than 50 for 300W.
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Old 10-28-2021, 10:25 PM   #4
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To be clear, connecting solar panels to your batteries through a solar controller won't interfere with your other charge sources. Solar kits are available that contain a controller and are relatively simple to install. Here are some:

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Electric...%20kit%7D%3Aqu

You should look for a kit with an MPPT controller for maximum efficiency.
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Old 10-29-2021, 12:35 PM   #5
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Thank you gentlemen. I did figure on the need for the charge controller. Just wasn't sure what would happen when another source (altenator or gen/convertor) was charging the battery at same time..
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Old 10-29-2021, 01:56 PM   #6
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ok. Let’s keep this simple as I am a simple kinda guy. I have a 2006 Fleetwood terra with two Deka Pro Master GC15 Flooded 6v Deep cycle batteries. Far as I can tell I only have a converter onboard with a 5.5k Onan. I’d like to add 200 to 400 watts worth of solar panels to charge with so that I do not have to be running my gen. I am guessing I just can’t buy a simple kit and connect directly to battery as charge will also be supplied when engine/ gen are running. I’d also like the option of an inverter for tv or fan mostly. What is most reasonable solution. Thanks in advance for any input.
Do your homework before just throwing solar panels at something. “Far as I can tell” is not an answer you want when wiring electrical.

There are tons of YouTube videos on how to do solar correctly. Watch a few of them. Plus there are companies that will put a package together for you and explain to you how to install. They can do a package for about any budget.

I’ve been in the truck, car, and Rv industry for nearly 50 years and built and rebuilt just about anything including house wiring. I still called the experts to figure out what to do with mine.
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Old 10-29-2021, 02:07 PM   #7
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... I’d also like the option of an inverter for tv or fan mostly. What is most reasonable solution. Thanks in advance for any input.
Good advice on solar above!

230 amp hour Deka Pro Master GC15 Flooded 6v Deep cycle batteries could support a 1000 watt inverter. There is a larger capacity battery with the same name. It could support a higher capacity inverter.

An inverter that plugs into a cigarette lighter socket is simple to use. It will probably deliver no more than 170 watts. Is that enough?

Bigger inverters need to be wired directly to the batteries using larger wire. The bigger the inverter, the bigger the wire.

Managing the 120 volt output of the inverter is another issue. The simplest is to get an inverter with 120 volt sockets as a part of the inverter. Plug the appliance directly into the inverter. You can use a 120 volt extension cord if necessary.

If you want to power your entire RV, you will need a big inverter with heavy 12 volt cables and a sub-panel with branch breakers for 120 volt circuits. This system will also need a transfer switch to switch between shore power and inverter power. Very complicated.
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Old 10-29-2021, 02:33 PM   #8
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Yeah I already have a couple wired dc cigarette lighter adapters in front and in the bedroom that are fed off the house batteries. Not looking to go beyond that other than a small inverter to plug my tv(40 watts +\-)into up front or a dc powered fan. Not looking to add any new
Electronics....just a solar charge to what I currently have and the 12 circuits that are currently tied into it.
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Old 10-29-2021, 02:37 PM   #9
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My real struggle is convincing myself it’s ok to screw solar panels into my roof. Been looking for stick on or pliable ones that you can tape down.
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Old 10-29-2021, 02:55 PM   #10
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Be aware... that any "smart charger" will scale back on charging amps as a battery reaches full or nearly fully charged. That seems obvious, right?

Well, when you are charging your batteries with your converter using shore power or generator, or even when driving and the alternator is charging your batteries, those chargers charge at a higher voltage than your battery can hold. A fully charged battery is 12.7v. But when your converter is charging your batteries it does so between 13.7v and 14.3v. This is normal and right way to charge a battery.

All solar charge controllers are SMART chargers. And, as we've discussed above they are connected directly to your batteries. So, when your Converter is applying 14+ volts to your battery that voltage is what your solar charge controller "sees" as your battery voltage. And, being a smart charger it knows full well that anything over 12.7v is fully charged and IT STOPS CHARGING.

There is nothing wrong with this, but many times I've seen folks think their solar charge controller is broken because when plugged into shore power there is no charging coming from the solar panels.

Again, nothing wrong - just be aware that this is how it works. Even if you have 1,000 watts of solar panels they only do their job when the battery needs charging and is not being charged by any other source.
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Old 10-29-2021, 07:03 PM   #11
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My real struggle is convincing myself it’s ok to screw solar panels into my roof. Been looking for stick on or pliable ones that you can tape down.
That is one reason I did portable. I mounted the scc I side my pass through and out an see connector to outside. I carried the panel in the bed of my truck for a while but it took most of the space. I ended up making a carrier on the rear bumper. Panel an tilt arms weigh about 40lb.
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Old 10-29-2021, 07:19 PM   #12
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I would try and stay away from the flexible panels you can glue/tape down to your roof. They don't have anywhere near the life of hard panels and I don't believe they are as efficient. As for putting screws in your roof, everything else up there is screwed down so why should a few more screws bother you? Just some things to think about.
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Old 10-30-2021, 06:32 AM   #13
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My real struggle is convincing myself it’s ok to screw solar panels into my roof. Been looking for stick on or pliable ones that you can tape down.
You can mount conventional, rigid panels with 3m VHB (Very High Bond) tape as long as you don't have a rubber roof. There are many videos on this topic. If you have a rubber roof, screwing is your only option and isn't really a big deal. It's no more problematical than everything else that's screwed to your roof (vents, skylights, A/C, etc.).

Although flexible panels have improved, they're still more expensive, less efficient, and shorter lived than rigid panels.
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Old 10-30-2021, 07:36 AM   #14
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You can mount conventional, rigid panels with 3m VHB (Very High Bond) tape as long as you don't have a rubber roof. There are many videos on this topic. If you have a rubber roof, screwing is your only option and isn't really a big deal. It's no more problematical than everything else that's screwed to your roof (vents, skylights, A/C, etc.).

Although flexible panels have improved, they're still more expensive, less efficient, and shorter lived than rigid panels.
Here is how you do it. This guy knows his stuff

https://youtu.be/uvMYv7afUWM
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