Trying to find a Hardwired Inverter

[Cypressloser]

I am trying to find a decent quality 12 Volt 2000 - 2500 Watt inverter that can be hardwired into a 30 Amp setup and has a remote control panel (an inverter with a bunch of 15 Amp outlets doesn't work). I already have a built in ATS that was part of the gen. prep package and I can't use an inverter/charger either because I already have a 80 Amp charger to charge up my 600 AH LiFePo4 battery bank. Hardwired, because it would be easy for me to connect to the generator junction box and supplies the current needed to run at least the AC.
The only 2000 Watt inverter I was able to find online is the Progressive Dynamics 1620, is pricey and it has a ATS which I'm afraid might potentially cause problems with the one that is already installed.

[d23haynes57]

I think part of your problem is understanding how an inverter installation is normally done especially for an RV application. You have the complication (not really) that since you already have charger, things need to remain so that the inverter never feeds the charger.
The best approach is to have an adequate circuit from the existing panel feed the inverter. For 2,000 watt that would at least be 12 gauge 20 amp circuit. Then the inverter feeds the loads you want to be on the inverter. Usually that is done with another breaker panel. Then the inverter and the transfer switch within take care of those loads. Everything existing now stays.

[Sunnyfalls]

We mostly do dry camping in remote locations. We use a Renogy 3000 Watt Inverter:

https://www.renogy.com/3000w-12v-pur...wave-inverter/

We only use 2400 Watts from this Inverter to create a fully independent 120VAC 20A circuit that uses a simple 30A switch to enable feeding this circuit either Inverter or Shore Power or to turn it completely off. To create 2400 Watts, the Inverter needs to receive 270A from our 12VDC battery. We use a Renogy 100A LiFePO4 battery and a Renogy 200 Watt portable solar suitcase to complete this system. We use our propane modified Honda EU2200i generator to operate our air conditioning system on the rare occasions it is needed. We are engineers who think outside the box and we don't follow the clueless RV herd mentality. Details and photos can be found in our writeup by Googling our trailer name if interested in how we accomplished this.

Gayle & Bob
"Los Gatos Casita"

[Cypressloser]

The charger I have is a portable LiTime 80 Amp LiFePo4 charger and is not permanently installed. The wiring in the generator junction box to the ATS is 10 awg and absolutely capable of carrying the current.
The reason I am going this route is the fact that I don't have the space in the truck camper to install the big batteries, inverter, bus bars, fuses, etc. For this to work I have to install the components in a box outside on the truck deck, if that makes sense.

[Stircrazy1]

Originally Posted by Cypressloser

I am trying to find a decent quality 12 Volt 2000 - 2500 Watt inverter that can be hardwired into a 30 Amp setup and has a remote control panel (an inverter with a bunch of 15 Amp outlets doesn't work). I already have a built in ATS that was part of the gen. prep package and I can't use an inverter/charger either because I already have a 80 Amp charger to charge up my 600 AH LiFePo4 battery bank. Hardwired, because it would be easy for me to connect to the generator junction box and supplies the current needed to run at least the AC.
The only 2000 Watt inverter I was able to find online is the Progressive Dynamics 1620, is pricey and it has a ATS which I'm afraid might potentially cause problems with the one that is already installed.

renogy has hard wire lugs also, you just don't use the outlets. just look through the manuals for the products and in the specks for renogy it will say weather it has " High Output AC Terminals" this is where you would wire it to your main board in the power center through a breaker and it will power your entire ac in the rv. it may not run the ac because 2000 watts is debatable weather it is enough or not. I just don't turn my ac on at all.

[Cypressloser]

Originally Posted by Sunnyfalls

We mostly do dry camping in remote locations. We use a Renogy 3000 Watt Inverter:

https://www.renogy.com/3000w-12v-pur...wave-inverter/

We only use 2400 Watts from this Inverter to create a fully independent 120VAC 20A circuit that uses a simple 30A switch to enable feeding this circuit either Inverter or Shore Power or to turn it completely off. To create 2400 Watts, the Inverter needs to receive 270A from our 12VDC battery. We use a Renogy 100A LiFePO4 battery and a Renogy 200 Watt portable solar suitcase. Details and photos can be found in our writeup by Googling our trailer name if interested in how we accomplished this.

Gayle & Bob
"Los Gatos Casita"

Unfortunately, the Renogy, as most other inverters in this category, only has 15 Amp outlets that are too small to power the AC.

[Cypressloser]

Originally Posted by Stircrazy1

renogy has hard wire lugs also, you just don't use the outlets. just look through the manuals for the products and in the specks for renogy it will say weather it has " High Output AC Terminals" this is where you would wire it to your main board in the power center through a breaker and it will power your entire ac in the rv. it may not run the ac because 2000 watts is debatable weather it is enough or not. I just don't turn my ac on at all.

I will look into it, but 15 Amp could be dicey since the AC is on a 20 Amp breaker.


Edit: The reason for the AC is we have a cat that travels with us.

[Sunnyfalls]

Originally Posted by Cypressloser

Unfortunately, the Renogy, as most other inverters in this category, only has 15 Amp outlets that are too small to power the AC.

Incorrect. Our Renogy Inverter has both 15A outlets and a direct connection option to enable using the full 3000 Watts. We used the direct connection option.

BTW, we consider using batteries to power air conditioning to be both impractical and unsafe. We consider using a generator for long duration high power applications to be a far better choice. Battery technology is rapidly changing and improving at this time. As such, spending a lot of money to create a large battery system is also a poor investment and very shortsighted.

We have three cats that travel with us...and they even have their very own exhaust vented cat bathroom... Hence the name of our trailer.

Gayle & Bob
"Los Gatos Casita"

[workingonit]

Originally Posted by Cypressloser

Unfortunately, the Renogy, as most other inverters in this category, only has 15 Amp outlets that are too small to power the AC.

Lots of inverters that do what you want. Most of them likely have receptacles on them but are very capable of being hardwired. There's tons of info out there on how to accomplish all of the things being discussed. Nothing new or all that complicated. I do agree that running an AC unit might not be very practical and maybe not even doable for any length of runtime. But I don't see how it is unsafe given the level of safeguards built into these systems.

[Cypressloser]

Originally Posted by Sunnyfalls

Incorrect. Our Renogy Inverter has both 15A outlets and a direct connection option to enable using the full 3000 Watts. We used the direct connection option.

BTW, we consider using batteries to power air conditioning to be both impractical and unsafe. We consider using a generator for long duration high power applications to be a far better choice. Battery technology is rapidly changing and improving at this time. As such, spending a lot of money to create a large battery system is also a poor investment and very shortsighted.

We have three cats that travel with us...and they even have their very own exhaust vented cat bathroom... Hence the name of our trailer.

Gayle & Bob
"Los Gatos Casita"

Thanks for pointing out my error, I did download the manual for the Renogy and skimmed over it but dismissed when I saw the 3 outlets. My bad.
I believe that the two 300 AH batteries with a 200 Amp BMS each should be able to handle the AC easily for a few hours on and off, when I keep the wiring short and the appropriate size.

Btw., I love your setup.

[Cypressloser]

Originally Posted by workingonit

Lots of inverters that do what you want. Most of them likely have receptacles on them but are very capable of being hardwired. There's tons of info out there on how to accomplish all of the things being discussed. Nothing new or all that complicated. I do agree that running an AC unit might not be very practical and maybe not even doable for any length of runtime. But I don't see how it is unsafe given the level of safeguards built into these systems.

Good to know and makes perfect sense, when I think about it. Thanks for the tip.

[d23haynes57]

The inverter if it has pass through needs to have over current protection before, matched for the wire size and transfer switch ratings. You will also need control neutral/ground bonding based on power source. The OCP is why inverters are usually fed from the exiting panel. If feeding from the transfer switch a breaker box needs to be added.

[Cypressloser]

Originally Posted by d23haynes57

The inverter if it has pass through needs to have over current protection before, matched for the wire size and transfer switch ratings. You will also need control neutral/ground bonding based on power source. The OCP is why inverters are usually fed from the exiting panel. If feeding from the transfer switch a breaker box needs to be added.

Everything is there, I'm basically replacing generator power with the inverter. Battery - fuse - inverter - ATS - breaker panel, in this order.

[Sunnyfalls]

Originally Posted by workingonit

I do agree that running an AC unit might not be very practical and maybe not even doable for any length of runtime. But I don't see how it is unsafe given the level of safeguards built into these systems.

While LiFePO4 batteries are considered relatively safe, any LiFePO4 battery fire is nearly impossible to extinguish. So I consider loading up a RV with huge amount of LiFePO4 AHs that is then located in remote areas far away from fire protection services creates an unnecessary higher level of safety risk when a lower cost, lighter weight and safer generator can be used to satisfy long duration high power requirements.

Gayle & Bob
"Los Gatos Casita"