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Old 12-29-2019, 10:19 PM   #1
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Upgrade to LiFePo4 and larger inverter

Has anyone upgraded the inverter in their Class A or C from a smaller one to a larger one or a pure sine wave inverter without a built in transfer switch? I'm in the process of doing this AND upgrading to a LiFePo4 400ah battery and installing it under the bed next to the inverter.

I have the battery and inverter connected and the outler on the inverter is operational, just like when I tested it inside my house. But the Xantrex inverter has a built-in transfer switch and AC passes thru the hardwire connectors. I have not been able to get the power to go from the new inverter (also a Xantrex with transfer switch, but larger) to the motorhome. I prefer not passing the AC thru since I only use the inverter when not on shore power and I always manual turn it on and off. Is anyone habitat with this type of electrical setup and it so then how do I change the wiring?
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Old 12-29-2019, 10:40 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Allen_C View Post
Has anyone upgraded the inverter in their Class A or C from a smaller one to a larger one or a pure sine wave inverter without a built in transfer switch? I'm in the process of doing this AND upgrading to a LiFePo4 400ah battery and installing it under the bed next to the inverter.

I have the battery and inverter connected and the outler on the inverter is operational, just like when I tested it inside my house. But the Xantrex inverter has a built-in transfer switch and AC passes thru the hardwire connectors. I have not been able to get the power to go from the new inverter (also a Xantrex with transfer switch, but larger) to the motorhome. I prefer not passing the AC thru since I only use the inverter when not on shore power and I always manual turn it on and off. Is anyone habitat with this type of electrical setup and it so then how do I change the wiring?

I can help, but your description was not clear of how it's wired.
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Old 12-30-2019, 06:29 AM   #3
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I can help, but your description was not clear of how it's wired.
The original Xantrex XMPro1000 inverter has ac input and output as well as a gfci outlet. The inverter has a transfer switch built-in and there is a standard transfer switch nearby under the bed. It appears, but I'm not sure, the AC input on e inverter comes from the shore power connector. The output is split into two runs, one appears to be going to the breaker panel and the other one looks like it goes towards the front of the motorhome but it's very difficult to trace. I've swapped out the original inverter with a Xantrex XMPro1800, which should be a simple drop in replacement. I've also removed the SLA batteries from the outside tray and connected the new LiFePo4 battery to the inverter under the bed.

There were 3 positive and 1 negative wire connected to the SLA batteries. One + and - were going to the inverter but I have not moved either of the 2 positive wires to the new battery under the bed. Maybe one or both are required to provide power inside the coach? When I turn on the main power switch inside the entry, the light doesn't come in to indicate electricity is flowing

I can take some pics if that will help. What do you need? Thanks!
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Old 12-31-2019, 06:19 PM   #4
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I can help, but your description was not clear of how it's wired.
Are you "off grid" now? Hoping you can help!
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Old 12-31-2019, 07:59 PM   #5
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All incoming AC power should go to the ATS you found. Generator power will also go to it.
The outgoing power should go to the main breaker panel.

From the main panel, there should be a breaker and a line from it should go to the inverter AC in. Then the AC out will go to the items selected to run on inverter.

A 1000 watt inverter was probable only for TV's and other entertainment items.

The 2 other battery positive wires a needed. They power your 12 volt items. The one your connecting only powers the inverter.
That battery cable will most likely, not be heavy enough for your new inverter. It will draw twice the amps. The inverter manual should have a wire size chart.

What do you want to run with the larger inverter ?
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Old 12-31-2019, 11:18 PM   #6
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Some pics would help. I still was not clear on which inverter is which and wired to what.

Generally, The new inverter should just drop in and wire the same as the other old one. The transfer switch is to allow power to pass thru the inverter when on shore and relieve the load on the battery and, if equipped, charge the batteries. i would be curious to see this "split" into two runs. Could be it's post wired to something that is not original that necessitated an AC outlet somewhere. It would be unusual to directly power a circuit without breaker protection post inverter wiring. But I have seen all sorts of weird things.
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Old 12-31-2019, 11:35 PM   #7
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All incoming AC power should go to the ATS you found. Generator power will also go to it.
The outgoing power should go to the main breaker panel.

From the main panel, there should be a breaker and a line from it should go to the inverter AC in. Then the AC out will go to the items selected to run on inverter.

A 1000 watt inverter was probable only for TV's and other entertainment items.

The 2 other battery positive wires a needed. They power your 12 volt items. The one your connecting only powers the inverter.
That battery cable will most likely, not be heavy enough for your new inverter. It will draw twice the amps. The inverter manual should have a wire size chart.

What do you want to run with the larger inverter ?
I need to verify that the shore power and generator connections go to the ATS (I don't see why not) but the Xantrex inverter also has a transfer switch built-in to automatically bypass the inverter when AC power is connected. I need to trace this AC input line back to its source, presumably the stand alone ATS.

I traced the AC out line from the inverter and it is split. One line appears to go to the breaker panel and the other disappears toward the back wall of the bed.

Yes, the original inverter only powered the outlets for the two inside tv's and one other outlet next to the passenger seat I'm using 2/0 cable from the battery to the inverter, as listed in the new inverter manual. I want to power everything except the air conditioner with the battery and inverter.
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Old 12-31-2019, 11:36 PM   #8
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Some pics would help. I still was not clear on which inverter is which and wired to what.

Generally, The new inverter should just drop in and wire the same as the other old one. The transfer switch is to allow power to pass thru the inverter when on shore and relieve the load on the battery and, if equipped, charge the batteries. i would be curious to see this "split" into two runs. Could be it's post wired to something that is not original that necessitated an AC outlet somewhere. It would be unusual to directly power a circuit without breaker protection post inverter wiring. But I have seen all sorts of weird things.
I'll try to get some pics tomorrow! All wiring is from the factory since I purchased the coach new and no one has done any work on it.
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Old 01-01-2020, 03:48 AM   #9
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I need to verify that the shore power and generator connections go to the ATS (I don't see why not) but the Xantrex inverter also has a transfer switch built-in to automatically bypass the inverter when AC power is connected. I need to trace this AC input line back to its source, presumably the stand alone ATS.

I traced the AC out line from the inverter and it is split. One line appears to go to the breaker panel and the other disappears toward the back wall of the bed.

Yes, the original inverter only powered the outlets for the two inside tv's and one other outlet next to the passenger seat I'm using 2/0 cable from the battery to the inverter, as listed in the new inverter manual. I want to power everything except the air conditioner with the battery and inverter.
Inverter incoming power should come from breaker panel, not the stand alone ATS.

The AC out lines may go directly to the outlets.

You will need a rewire the RV to power all but the air conditioners. You won't be able to power the water heater, or microwave. That inverter is not powerful enough to do that with any thing else running.

As far as the fridge, if its a gas/electric model, powering it on 120 volts ( with your inverter ) is very inefficient. They draw 350 to 500 watts. That's 30 to 40 amps @ 12 volts DC. 10 hours running is 300 to 400 AH.
If you have a residental fridge ( 120 volt only ), they draw much less energy. Maybe 10 to 15 amps at 12 volts DC. They also cycle on and off more, not drawing power more then 1/2 the time. Now your looking at 5 to 7 AH or 50 to 70 AH over the same 10 hour run.
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Old 01-01-2020, 03:58 AM   #10
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It would be unusual to directly power a circuit without breaker protection post inverter wiring. But I have seen all sorts of weird things.
The inverter has a built in breaker on it, so although its post breaker panel wired, the inverter breaker protects the circuit in invert mode. Besides, at 1000 watts, it can't over load the wiring.
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Old 01-01-2020, 10:57 AM   #11
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Inverter incoming power should come from breaker panel, not the stand alone ATS.

The AC out lines may go directly to the outlets.

You will need a rewire the RV to power all but the air conditioners. You won't be able to power the water heater, or microwave. That inverter is not powerful enough to do that with any thing else running.

As far as the fridge, if its a gas/electric model, powering it on 120 volts ( with your inverter ) is very inefficient. They draw 350 to 500 watts. That's 30 to 40 amps @ 12 volts DC. 10 hours running is 300 to 400 AH.
If you have a residental fridge ( 120 volt only ), they draw much less energy. Maybe 10 to 15 amps at 12 volts DC. They also cycle on and off more, not drawing power more then 1/2 the time. Now your looking at 5 to 7 AH or 50 to 70 AH over the same 10 hour run.
The new Xantrex inverter is 1800w but I also have a 2000w pure sine wave inverter that doesn't have have hard wire connections that I'd rather install. Could I simply connect the AC input currently going to the inverter to the output splitter I mentioned before, to skip running the AC thru the inverter? Then run a cord from the new 2000w inverter to the breaker panel? If so, where to I connect into the panel?

Thanks for calculating numbers for running the RV fridge. I'm good with using propane when not connected to shore power.
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Old 01-01-2020, 11:33 AM   #12
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The new Xantrex inverter is 1800w but I also have a 2000w pure sine wave inverter that doesn't have have hard wire connections that I'd rather install. Could I simply connect the AC input currently going to the inverter to the output splitter I mentioned before, to skip running the AC thru the inverter? Then run a cord from the new 2000w inverter to the breaker panel? If so, where to I connect into the panel?

Thanks for calculating numbers for running the RV fridge. I'm good with using propane when not connected to shore power.
I don't know what a output splitter is.

You could plug the shore cord into the inverter. Just switch off all of the things that draw to much, water heater, fridge converter/charger, A/C. If the appliance has a 20 amp breaker, it probable won't run on inverter.

Your still on the edge of overload running a medium size microwave on a 2000 watt inverter.
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Old 01-01-2020, 03:55 PM   #13
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I don't know what a output splitter is.

You could plug the shore cord into the inverter. Just switch off all of the things that draw to much, water heater, fridge converter/charger, A/C. If the appliance has a 20 amp breaker, it probable won't run on inverter.

Your still on the edge of overload running a medium size microwave on a 2000 watt inverter.
I like the idea of simply plugging my shore power cord into the inverter! I can install an outlet in the electric bay that is plugged into the inverter then use a doggone adapter to plug the 30a cord into the new outlet! All appliances should run if the battery/inverter except the air conditioner.

Here is a picture of the splitter. One line comes out of the inverter and goes into this box in the bottom of the picture (the gray cover, next to the white splitter, slides over the top) and two lines out on the top of the pic.

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Old 01-01-2020, 05:27 PM   #14
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I like the idea of simply plugging my shore power cord into the inverter! I can install an outlet in the electric bay that is plugged into the inverter then use a doggone adapter to plug the 30a cord into the new outlet! All appliances should run if the battery/inverter except the air conditioner.

Here is a picture of the splitter. One line comes out of the inverter and goes into this box in the bottom of the picture (the gray cover, next to the white splitter, slides over the top) and two lines out on the top of the pic.

That is a simple junction box or receptcal, very common in RVs.

Does the other side have a pair of outlets on it ?
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