Just wanted to give a little insight into our current and future solar setup with real life #s
This is a link to a public facebook album with the specs of the equipment and batteries, and 3/23/16 I will add some pics of the array on the roof as well.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...6&l=62206abb8c
Current System setup:
4- 100W solar panels connected in series to give about 40-45V coming in on most days
2 - 125Ah Solar AGM batteries
1 - 8D tractor battery which when last tested held 210Ah at a 20A draw
2 - Automotive 75 group car batteries for high A output for surge loads/compressor etc. last tested at about 45-50A each at 20A draw
FlexMax 60 solar controller
These tests were done on a state of the art battery tester /charger at the new hardware store and it cost them well over $3000.
The Charge controller said I was getting 70-77Ah @ 13-14V per day when i first connected the batteries when they were discharged.
I live in North Dakota, we do not have long days yet so maybe 4-5 hours of direct sun at best.
The panels were NOT tilted to compensate on the first few days.
I have the ST1500-112 model pure sine inverter
1500W continuous
1750W for 3 minutes
3000W surge
Our rooftop unit pegs my 110V meter between 8A - 13A between low and hi with the compressor running surge much higher.
We have opted to try a Hi-Efficiency Portable A/C rated at 10,000BTU it uses 630W/5.5A A/C with fan low and Compressor running
55W/ 0.5A for just fan when the compressor is off.
All windows minus the driving area will be tinted with either 5% or 2.5% limousine tint, I have used it in previous motorhomes and it helps with staying cool but makes the windows colder during the winter and fall months.
The fridge has not been metered yet but it rarely cycles and it is less than 3 years old.
LED lights use minimal power.
DC Amps required just to run the A/C would be about 60A DC per hour If it was on nonstop. however in my experience if its insulated halfway decent and door is shut most of the time it usually runs about 10 minutes then fan for 20, and repeat. during evening and overnight it might run the compressor 5 minutes or less and fan the rest.
So 20 minutes per hour of compressor + fan = 20A DC
Add on 40 minutes per hour of fan running = 3A DC
Total = 23-25A per hour assuming 82-85% inverter efficiency at partial load
The 400W solar could theoretically produce 30A per hour of direct optimal sunlight.
We already know it will not, however it should be able to maintain it at least during the peak parts of the day.
Total battery bank capacity 550Ah at a 20Ah discharge
So assuming 20-40A per hour discharge in the summer also accounting for radio, cell phones, lights, etc
Our battery run time would range from 13 hours to 27 hours, and of course if its a rainy day we could be frugal lol
The hot water is also solar, or rather will be once i implement the new system
The alternator on the engine is 150-200A i have not had it tested since i bought it. But that will be running the inverter while driving or idling in parking lots etc. or if the generator runs out of gas.
I am thinking of investing in a 900W harbor freight generator for $100 just to have a secondary in case of extended cloudy days or early spring/late fall use.
We intend to add 200W-600W to the roof as well either this fall or next spring because that is all the remaining roof space.
If the Portable A/C works out well we are going to remove the roof A/C and sell it then put a "bathroom" fan with light in its place.
If the portable A/C doesnt work well (we have heard + and - reviews of them) we have a digital Hi efficiency 8,000BTU window unit that shuts the fan off completely once temperature is reached, and we were able to cool a pop-up of similar size with canvas walls with it just fine.
Any questions or comments feel free to ask, this is not our first time with a solar or off grid setup but we are always open to tips or improvements
Full-time 1999-2004. Part time now. '92 Hawkins, 360AH Lithium Battery, 1480 Watts PV solar.
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