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03-20-2022, 10:02 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2019
Posts: 140
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Wind and roof solar panels
Wanting to take the solar LiFePo leap but concerned about the long term stability of attaching solar panels to my fiberglass roof.
In the videos that I've watched nobody seems overly concerned about finding something solid into which screws can be attached. They just place the panels in a "good" spot and drill away willy nilly.
I routinely drive through Wyoming and have experienced wind gusts up to 70 mph. Even had an awning cover get ripped off and damage my roof.
I don't see how 4 screws drilled into fiberglass will keep my panels from ending up in a field in Wyoming next time I drive through in the fall. I realize they are laying horizontal but still seems sketchy to me.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
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03-20-2022, 10:11 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dallas121469
Wanting to take the solar LiFePo leap but concerned about the long term stability of attaching solar panels to my fiberglass roof.
In the videos that I've watched nobody seems overly concerned about finding something solid into which screws can be attached. They just place the panels in a "good" spot and drill away willy nilly.
I routinely drive through Wyoming and have experienced wind gusts up to 70 mph. Even had an awning cover get ripped off and damage my roof.
I don't see how 4 screws drilled into fiberglass will keep my panels from ending up in a field in Wyoming next time I drive through in the fall. I realize they are laying horizontal but still seems sketchy to me.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
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There is no reason to drill ANY holes in your fiberglass roof to attach your solar panels. The only way to put them on is with 3M VHB tape. Think about it. 4 small screws totaling maybe 1/4 square inch of adhesion, vs a 4" x 6" adhesive that has been proven to have more strength per square inc than screws and bolts, spread out over a much larger area, distributing stress on your fiberglass roof surface.
__________________
2006 Winnebago Journey
39K
Cat C7
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03-21-2022, 08:16 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amosnandy
There is no reason to drill ANY holes in your fiberglass roof to attach your solar panels. The only way to put them on is with 3M VHB tape. Think about it. 4 small screws totaling maybe 1/4 square inch of adhesion, vs a 4" x 6" adhesive that has been proven to have more strength per square inc than screws and bolts, spread out over a much larger area, distributing stress on your fiberglass roof surface.
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Keep in mind good prep is a MUST. The roof and mount plate where the VHB is going to be attached needs to be thoughly clean, no dirt or oils (including skin oil) to obtain a strong bond. Any contamination of the bonding surfaces can lead to failure of the VHB tape.
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03-21-2022, 08:41 AM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 13
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FWIW I have had 3 panels attached by 4 small screws each for 3 years to the top of my TT with absolutely no problems. I was worried at first but got over that. I have driven 65 mph against a 30 mph headwind, and I have experienced 70 mph storm winds more than once. The panels are still firmly attached. Given what others have said about vhb tape, I might have tried that three years ago if I had known about it. I do wonder, however, about how hard it would be to remove a panel if taped down or, if in the unlikely event of a panel lifting off in high winds, would the tape release or would the membrane under it tear off?
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03-21-2022, 08:57 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 15,745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sshephard1
FWIW I have had 3 panels attached by 4 small screws each for 3 years to the top of my TT with absolutely no problems. I was worried at first but got over that. I have driven 65 mph against a 30 mph headwind, and I have experienced 70 mph storm winds more than once. The panels are still firmly attached. Given what others have said about vhb tape, I might have tried that three years ago if I had known about it. I do wonder, however, about how hard it would be to remove a panel if taped down or, if in the unlikely event of a panel lifting off in high winds, would the tape release or would the membrane under it tear off?
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VHB tape only used with fiberglass or other solid roof. Not to be used with any kind d of membrane roof.
Especially if installing with VHB tape I'd use a rail mounting system to accommodate any future panel upgrades or changes.
__________________
Vince and Susan
2011 Tiffin Phaeton 40QTH (Cummins ISC/Freightliner)
Flat towing a modified 2005 Jeep (Rubicon Wrangler)
Previously a 2002 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 37A and a 1995 Safari Trek 2830.
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03-21-2022, 09:23 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2019
Posts: 140
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I like the idea of vhb tape over screws and I had already intended to use a rail type system over the fixed brackets.
Has anyone tried eternabond double sided tape?
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03-21-2022, 10:12 AM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vsheetz
VHB tape only used with fiberglass or other solid roof. Not to be used with any kind d of membrane roof.
Especially if installing with VHB tape I'd use a rail mounting system to accommodate any future panel upgrades or changes.
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Good to know. Thanks.
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03-21-2022, 05:26 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 149
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Check this out. He put his on a fiberglass roof with vhb tape.
https://youtu.be/uvMYv7afUWM
__________________
2017 FW Storm 32A - CHF (TeJay Plates), Roadmaster RSSA, Flow-Rite, Sumos
2020 Ford Ranger Toad- Blue Ox Baseplate, Aladdin Tow Bar, Blue Ox Patriot Brake
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03-21-2022, 07:38 PM
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#9
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Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Sartell, MN
Posts: 39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bsqrd
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Exact video that I was thinking of as soon as I started to read this thread. Seems like this guy thought of everything and made a good decision to install like he did. I really like the rails that he used to attach to the roof.
__________________
Shawn & Debbie.....FMCA#F528777
2005 Winnebago Adventurer 38R
Workhorse 8.1/Allison Transmission
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03-21-2022, 07:49 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,635
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I used screws, 8 per panel, but I used full width brackets and laid a good bead of Dicor caulk down before screwing the brackets in place, then Dicored over the screws. Still solid years later and completely leak free.
The way the wind blows over the top of the roof and the panels there's a whole lot less force than you might think. I remember one time I left something on the roof and drove for a couple hours to the campground. Got up on the roof and it was still there. I don't remember what it was, but I was shocked it didn't blow off because it was pretty light.
My fiberglass roof is the pebbly textured type, so I wasn't confident tape would work. I expect my panel installation, with proper maintenance, to last the lifetime of the panels. If that's 25 years, that could be longer than I'll be around.
__________________
Tom M. 1998 Safari Serengeti 3706,
300HP Cat 3126 Allison 3060, 600 watts of Solar.
Fisher and Paykel Residential refrigerator
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03-21-2022, 07:52 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: MN
Posts: 2,293
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I have a membrane roof over thin luan-type plywood, so I worried about this too. No such thing as a strong connection to such material. You look for lots of weak ones.
But I have not had an issue. I used the normal 4 z-brackets per panel, which gives me 8 screws holding down each panel. (Important to use the correct large-coarse-thread fasteners with a tight pilot hole, not the self-drilling ones. Self-drillers drill too large of a hole.)
I drive close to 70, and I've hit strong oncoming winds, with not a single panel movement. They're going edge-on into the wind, so there's not a lot of sail area for the wind to grab.
But I still hooked up a safety cable to all panels, in case one or more pull out, so I don't kill anyone.
__________________
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1993 Rockwood 28' Class C - Ford E-350 7.5L
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03-21-2022, 09:39 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Washington
Posts: 1,569
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dallas121469
I routinely drive through Wyoming and have experienced wind gusts up to 70 mph.
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Driving will you will experience constant winds of up to 70 mph..........
__________________
2014 Volvo 630 Tandem 2016 Chevy 3500 DRW, crew cab
2016 Fuzion 325T
675ah AGM, MSH 3012 inverter, 1400w Solar
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03-22-2022, 10:36 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 549
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I have a membrane over luan roof. I have installed 6 panels using aluminum strut channel. I used 10 ft strut channel with two panels per pair of strut channel. I used 8 total attach points per pair of panels, so 4 attach points per panel.
For the first 4, I used the wet roof method to find cross members. Worked pretty good, but I missed in a couple of spots. And when I missed, there was nothing holding the strut channel to the roof. Made a few extra holes this way.
I tried using my stud finder I have owned for 25 years, but it just beeped randomly all the time. Then I read a thread on here about one that worked for RV roofs. I bought it and used it to mount the last two panels and it worked like a champ. Found cross members easily and when I drove the stainless lag bolts into where it said there was a cross member, it grabbed solidly. Very pleased.
Here is the stud finder I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07564RSHR...roduct_details

Here's a pic of my install:
__________________
2015 Chevy 2500HD 6.0 4x4 CC SB
2021 Salem Hemisphere 290RL
Andersen Ultimate
1200W Solar > 412 aH LiFePO4 > Victron MultiPlus II
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03-22-2022, 11:02 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Excel Owners Club Winnebago Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Santa Fe, NM
Posts: 5,882
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Plenty of good advice above.
RV roof construction varies greatly. Some are thin metal, some have 3/8 - 1/2 plywood under a membrane or fiberglass, some are fiberglass bonded directly to foam, etc. Some roof structures have a standard roof truss system, like every 16 inches, some have a few structural cross members where roof items are attached, some are solid foam with no structural members. Thus the best way to attach solar panels varies with both roof structure and surface type.
Our 5th wheeler has wooden roof trusses and 3/8 plywood with EPDM membrane. Thus VBH tape was a non-starter. My panels are like 49 x 79", rather large and they had to go over some roof vents. In the end I fabricated my own aluminum brackets, 1/4 thick x 6 long and 5" high. I used six brackets per panel and 4 screws per bracket. Dicor under and over every bracket. Seven years and many miles and all is still good.
I think if your roof layout allows it a good rail system is best.
__________________
Fred & Denise (RVM157) New Mexico
2007 Excel Classic 30RSO & Coach House 272XL E450
2007 RAM 3500, Diesel, 6Spd Auto, SWD, 4x4, CC & LB
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