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07-20-2021, 09:29 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 712
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Wire splice question
I am planning to add a couple of solar panels to the top of my trailer. I have one Zamp panel already, but will add Renogy. That means I have to transition from MC4 to SAE connectors.
It seems I will have to splice the 10-ga leads from the panels to the combiner box. Those splices will be exposed on the roof top.
What is the best way to get a reliable splice?
I can get water-resistant wire nuts. These apparently are filled with silicone to keep water out.
Should I wrap the splices in water proof tape, like the thick rubber stuff from Gorilla? Maybe just smother the splices with Dicor?
__________________
2018 F350 Limited, 2021 Arctic Fox 27-5L
300 Ah Battleborn LiFePo4, 3kw Victron Multiplus, 600W Solar, SeeLevel
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07-20-2021, 09:47 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2021
Posts: 454
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Marine grade butt connectors and heat shrink.
Or do a lineman splice and solder, again heatshrink it.
Throw the wire nuts away, they only belong inside.
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07-20-2021, 09:54 AM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 48
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I have 6 panels on my coach, they are wired in parallel and connect to a fine stranded cable that goes down thru the roof to a marine type rotary power switch SPST. the panel wires feed into a compression type conduit fittings and are using crimp connectors. The + & - are using #8 machine screws and nuts that make each connection (you could use small copper split bolts, Seal them and wrap them. this connection is in a 4"x4" non-metallic electrical box that is mounted and sealed to the roof. The #4 copper stranded pair come out the backside down thru the roof to the switch which is in a closet along with the regulator. everything is sealed outside with DiCore. self leveling sealant
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07-20-2021, 11:16 AM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Lanesboro, Minnesota, between Fountain and Whalan
Posts: 39
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You might want to view AM Solar's Installing the Output Cable video.
Enjoy,
Perry
__________________
Escape 5.0, 2018, F150, 3.5 EB, 6.5' box, crew cab
2 e-ICE trikes in summer, 2 e-Tern Vektron's in winter
465 watts on roof, 100 watt portable, 260 AH Soneil SiO2 batteries
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07-21-2021, 03:06 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Benson AZ
Posts: 512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inthepines
Marine grade butt connectors and heat shrink.
Or do a lineman splice and solder, again heatshrink it.
Throw the wire nuts away, they only belong inside.
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I like to stagger the splices. Less chance of a short if pulled apart. Also makes a thinner longer package.
Lineman splice is great for pull strength and does not have an ugly tail. It was used with solid core wire and is useful for stranded if soldered. Clean up all the sharp edges after soldering so it does not poke thru the heat shrink.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Union_splice
__________________
Retired Engineering Technician, 2023 Artic Fox 25Y TT
SOLD 2017 Winne Minnie 2201DS TT
SOLD 2010 Chalet XL1930 A-Frame TT
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07-21-2021, 03:18 PM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Lanesboro, Minnesota, between Fountain and Whalan
Posts: 39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pappion
I like to stagger the splices. Less chance of a short if pulled apart. Also makes a thinner longer package.
Lineman splice is great for pull strength and does not have an ugly tail. It was used with solid core wire and is useful for stranded if soldered. Clean up all the sharp edges after soldering so it does not poke thru the heat shrink.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Union_splice
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We've staggered in the past for the same reasons. I no longer have a soldering gun but use quality connectors with shrink wrap. I definitely want to stagger with connectors. I've used cheap connectors that got hot. I go to an electrical supplier for connectors, not the cheap crap from WalMart. Connectors also make for a neater appearance. TETO!
Enjoy,
Perry
__________________
Escape 5.0, 2018, F150, 3.5 EB, 6.5' box, crew cab
2 e-ICE trikes in summer, 2 e-Tern Vektron's in winter
465 watts on roof, 100 watt portable, 260 AH Soneil SiO2 batteries
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07-21-2021, 04:59 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 712
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Thanks, people!
I found some waterproof heat shrink butt splices locally. I like the idea of the adhesive-lined heat shrink tube as used in the AM Solar video, but have not found any yet.
__________________
2018 F350 Limited, 2021 Arctic Fox 27-5L
300 Ah Battleborn LiFePo4, 3kw Victron Multiplus, 600W Solar, SeeLevel
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07-21-2021, 06:19 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Stanislaus County, CA
Posts: 602
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why? they sell adapters.
__________________
2021 Flagstaff 21DS behind a 2015 Silverado 2500HD
Renogy bits: 3000W Inverter/Charger, 400Ah LiFePo4, 40A DC-to-DC. Rich Solar bits: 400W of panels, 40A MPPT. Misc bits: LevelMatePro+, SolidRemote based wireless controlled LED storage lighting
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07-21-2021, 06:20 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
American Coach Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,971
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHinman
Thanks, people!
I found some waterproof heat shrink butt splices locally. I like the idea of the adhesive-lined heat shrink tube as used in the AM Solar video, but have not found any yet.
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I have not watched the video mentioned. But, here is a link to waterproof heat shrink splices. Reading the spec sheet for one of them that I picked at random indicates that they are adhesive-lined as well.
https://www.elecdirect.com/crimp-wir...rink-terminals
I have used this source many times over the years and have never been disappointed.
__________________
Charles and Beverly
"The Eagle" - 1991 American Eagle 38J - Cummins 6CTA8.3 300hp DP, Allison MT643 4spd. Trans., Spartan chassis.
Link to our Eagle Thread
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07-21-2021, 06:27 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 427
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You can get marine heat shrink (thicker and adhesive lined) at Harbor Freight or Amazon.
Regards,
Randy
__________________
2016 Tiffin Allegro Open Road 32SA
2017 Jeep Wrangler JKU
2014 Thor Axis 24.1 & 2012 Spyder on Aluma UT10
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07-21-2021, 07:19 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,813
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inthepines
Marine grade butt connectors and heat shrink.
Or do a lineman splice and solder, again heatshrink it.
Throw the wire nuts away, they only belong inside.
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I would agree. Butt connectors and silicone filled shrink tubing. When I do an exposed splice I put shrink tubing on for the size wire I'm using, then I go up one or 2 sizes and slip another shrink tube about an inch longer than the original. Never had a failure even when exposed to salt water.
__________________
2006 Winnebago Journey
39K
Cat C7
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07-21-2021, 08:34 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 712
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I will try Harbor Freight for the heat shrink - thanks!
__________________
2018 F350 Limited, 2021 Arctic Fox 27-5L
300 Ah Battleborn LiFePo4, 3kw Victron Multiplus, 600W Solar, SeeLevel
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07-21-2021, 09:06 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 1,055
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If I was going to have high current (up to 40 amps # 10 wire) splices in an area that isn't accessed regularly, I'm not going with the H.F. heat shrink tube. I'm using a name brand such as 3M, Raychem, Panduit, etc that are available at electrical supply houses. Definitely more expensive, but not going to fail under fault conditions. I can say this as I have used their products in over 35 years in industrial electrical construction.
Good Luck in your install.
p.s. make sure that the heat shrink tube you select is UV rated.
Tim
__________________
2015 Silverado 3500HD CC DRW Duramax
2006 Hitchhiker Champagne
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01-03-2022, 11:39 AM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 68
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Serious Wiring and more
For serious weather resistant wiring, you might want to look at what boaters do to deal with the marine environment. A great source of information on wiring, splicing, batteries, solar, etc. from a marine electrician can be found at:
https://marinehowto.com
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