Community Forums

Jim917 · 10-18-2021, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Leszek

...just wanted them to send me the $8.00 thermistor. They refused!!!!!

That's so wrong. I haven't attempted to deal with them yet, so we'll see. It seems like a warranty service dealer would want to fix anything and everything, because the factory is paying for it. I wouldn't expect them to just say "It's supposed to be like that, if they can fix it and make some money. Although, if they have trouble getting Fleetwood to pay for things, then that's a whole different story. I undoubtedly have a lot to learn about this industry and dealing with RV service providers.

Jim917 · 10-18-2021, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rev. Roy

The second recommendation is that you have Safe-T-Plus® installed on the front end. I have heard that the new Ford chassis handle better than its predecessor but this will help keep you going straight in cross winds and semis blowing pass you. It also will help you maintain control in the event of a front tire blow out. A more expensive option, but far better, is having Liquid Springs® 4 corner system installed. This system will made it ride and drive like a diesel pusher that has air bags.
I wired my own 50 amp RV plug because I couldn't find an electrician I had confidence in to do it right. My father was an electrician and I grew up helping him so I knew how. Be sure that you had an enclosed waterproof box with a shut off on it so you can shut off the power when plugging in or unplugging. Do not ever plug or unplug with the power on. It can arc and burn you plug or wires.

I've heard of Liquid Springs. Mine came with "Sumo Springs", whatever that means. In fact, as I recall, they were an expensive option. At this point, it would probably be a waste to get Liquid Springs after paying for Sumo Springs, if those are mutually exclusive.

I'll look into the Safe-T-Plus. Hopefully, that would be an add-on, rather than a replacement for the Sumo Springs, since once again I wouldn't be too keen on removing something I just paid a lot for.

Interestingly, I was chatting with a mechanic at a truck stop who had just watched me go over a speed bump. He looked under my coach and said the shocks they installed were "crap". He said they were the shocks you install on a pickup, and he said I should get actual RV shocks. Of course, maybe he was just hoping I would hire him to do a job that didn't need to be done.

Since I don't know anything about any of this stuff, I'll need to figure this out before my service appointment at an RV dealer next month, so I know what to ask for.

Also, I had just posted a question about the breaker at the electrical hookup, and you had already answered it. (I should have read all the current posts before posting anything new!) Per your suggestion, I will tell my electrician to install a local breaker at the hookup. Thanks so much!

twinboat · 10-18-2021, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim917

I agree! 777Driver's explanation was awesome.

I still have a pending question for my situation, though. I do have a surge protector, but even with that, standard practice seems to be to turn off the 50A before making any connections to the shore power plug. However, for my backyard hookup, I don't have a local breaker by the RV. In order to turn off that breaker, I would need to walk around the house to the house's panel and back.

So, I'm wondering if I should have my electrician add an additional breaker at my RV hookup box, so I can turn it on and off when I'm plugging/unplugging. Or is that just something people do at a campground because the campground power is more of an unknown?

I bought the "50A Surge Guard Portable Total Electrical Protection 34950" from technorv.com, so with that, I'm wondering if I should still be turning on/off the breaker at my personal house hookups. I don't want to pay him to add the new breaker is that's just something I only need to do at campgrounds.

Plug your power cord into the surge detector and then pug both into the always on outlet.

Since the protector runs a test before switching the power on, to supply the RV, there is no chance of any detectable arcing on the blades of the plugs. The test routine draws milliamps.

Even without a surge protector, if you leave the ACs, water heaters and other high amp draw devices off, the risk of burning up the plug is minute.

Jim917 · 10-18-2021, 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr george

Not all electricians are familiar with wiring specifically RV outlets and could wire your outlet for 240-volt service

Thanks for the info!

This is a piece of the article you posted. I'm not sure what the original author was intending to say with the above statement. From what I think I currently understand, the RV outlet seems to be the same as a regular 240-volt service, like for a stove. So, I'm not sure what distinction that author was making.

Jim917 · 10-18-2021, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jchemie

Nice catch, Jim917. Looks great. Just remember they do break occasionally, you just gotta be a bit handy mechanically wise and you’ll save a ton of $$ doing it youself. A good place for tires & alignment in Phx is Firebird tire, 22444 N. 19 ave near the Deer Vally airport (602/582-9212). Used them several times and they are great. I’m north of you in Preskitt. When spring comes, check out Railside RV resort in Williams AZ off of I-10. Great place for a quick get away from the Phoenix furnace. Closed for the winter now.
Just curious, why do you need a 50 amp/220 vt connection to store it? If you are worried about maintaining the batteries, just sizing the coach’s plug down to a 15 amp/110 vt will keep them charged. I installed a 30 amp/110 vt plug off my breaker box (much cheaper) and I can run 1 of either of my 2 A/C units if I’m inside doing maintenance in the heat. Can’t run both but who needs to unless you plan on living in it in the summer.

Thanks for the tip about the tire place! I have added it to my notes. That's really helpful.

Regarding the 50A hookup, it's not so much "need" as "want". I agree that 50A service is not needed for storage. Part of my vision for my new parking area was to have full hookups like a campground would have, just because I thought that was cool.

From a practical standpoint, I envisioned wanting to spend time inside the RV tinkering, and it might be a hot day. I wanted to be able to run both AC's if desired, and depending on what I'm tinkering with, maybe I would want to emulate a campground situation for some reason.

All that is a bit of a stretch, for sure. The reality is that I just want it because I think it's cool. I agree I don't actually need it.

Jim917 · 10-18-2021, 04:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scooter363y

Let me suggest a tool you should have. A real Rv saver

https://www.homedepot.com/p/MARINCO-...T-50/311817866

You can check campground outlets before you plug in. Comes in real handy as you explore this great country.

Rv safe
Scooter

I like it! I have one of those smart surge protectors, so it's probably redundant in my case. Although maybe this would be better at telling me what exactly is wrong. The surge protector would probably just tell me that it's wrong without telling why.

Nice little tool. I'll probably get it. Thanks!

Jim917 · 10-18-2021, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by djbmsu

I noticed that your tow vehicle connection point was lower than the height of your motorhome. They tow bar should be as level as possible so you may want to purchase a drop down connector for your coach receiver.

Hi Don,

Good eye! Yes, I have been struggling with that problem. The hitch on the MH is much higher than I was hoping it would be.

There's currently a 6-inch drop hitch on there, and with that drop hitch, I end up with about a 4 inch height difference between the horns on the toad's base plate and the the tow bar shank.

The instructions say that the height difference shouldn't be more than 3 inches. Any more than that, and it puts extra stress on the tow system and the toad's suspension.

I don't want to use a drop hitch with more than a 6" drop because of the increased likelihood of hitting it on the ground in uneven terrain. According to the instructions, hitting your hitch on the ground is very, very bad.

Right now it seems like my best alternative is to raise the suspension on the toad by an inch to get it within that 3-inch spec. I'm not sure how to do it, but I assume that if I drive into a place that installs shocks and such, they could do it pretty easily.

Ideally, I'd like to use a drop hitch with less than a 6" drop so I have more ground clearance, but I don't see how I can do that with this toad. I sent a message to Blue Ox to see if they have any suggestions.

David Dunn · 10-18-2021, 11:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wa4htz

Jim, congrats on the new rig. It is very nice looking and I really like the light colored interior. It makes the rig look so much lighter and airy inside. A big improvement form the dark browns of the past many years.

Unless your electrician just started last week, I'd bet dollars to doughnuts he has installed many 50A outlets but doesn't know it. The NEMA 14-50R used for 50A RVs is the same outlet used for almost every electric range (stove) in the country. Its usually the 30A 120V RV outlet they get wrong and wire it for 240V. This blows up 120V stuff in the RV. (Someone please correct me if I have the wrong designation for the proper 50A outlet.)

Enjoy your new RV and take it slow and enjoy the sights along the way.

Ken

I agree... the plug looks like a 220 volt dryer or welder plug but the RV plug is 110 volts@ 30 amps. To my knowledge there is no 220 volt RV electrical connection... BE ADVISED.

peskyfeller · 10-19-2021, 07:08 AM

You can buy drop down hitch adapters to properly align the hitch with the toad vehicle. On my Bounder I had to use a 8 inch drop down receiver. Blue ox specifies that the receiver should be within 5 inches of level between the hitch pin on the RV and the pins on the tow bar. If your car is below that level you stand a good chance there may be an incident where the car goes under the motorhome during hard braking.

bigb56 · 10-19-2021, 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Dunn

I agree... the plug looks like a 220 volt dryer or welder plug but the RV plug is 110 volts@ 30 amps. To my knowledge there is no 220 volt RV electrical connection... BE ADVISED.

Correct there is no 220 volt RV connection, it is either 120 volts (30A) or 120/240 volts (50A)

Jim917 · 10-19-2021, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by peskyfeller

You can buy drop down hitch adapters to properly align the hitch with the toad vehicle. On my Bounder I had to use a 8 inch drop down receiver. Blue ox specifies that the receiver should be within 5 inches of level between the hitch pin on the RV and the pins on the tow bar. If your car is below that level you stand a good chance there may be an incident where the car goes under the motorhome during hard braking.

With the 8 inch drop, have you had any problems with the hitch hitting the ground on uneven terrain (e.g. starting up a steep driveway)?

That's my concern about dropping down. Even with the 6 inch drop I currently have, it looks like the hitch would hit the ground before the skids on the underside of the RV.

Slow Daddy · 10-19-2021, 04:41 PM

Jim, Congratulations on your new Fortis. It will take a little time and miles in the driver's seat to really get used to owning your new Fortis. I usually take my time driving (usually between 60 and 65 mph) when I'm on the road and make sure we enjoy the journey.

Charles and Dee
____________________________
2015 Tiffin Allegro Open Road 32CA
Safe-T-Plus and Koni Shocks
2019 Chevy Equinox AWD

peskyfeller · 10-20-2021, 07:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim917

With the 8 inch drop, have you had any problems with the hitch hitting the ground on uneven terrain (e.g. starting up a steep driveway)?

That's my concern about dropping down. Even with the 6 inch drop I currently have, it looks like the hitch would hit the ground before the skids on the underside of the RV.

I have never had a problem with the hitch hitting the ground. Just remember that the Blue Ox recommendation is that there is allowed a "5" inch allowance for alignment. Not a 3 inch. I had used a 10 inch drop down receiver on a previous motorhome to get to that allowance. Even then I didn't have a problem with grounding. I was rear ended in Indianapolis while turning in to the fair grounds for a FMCA rally several years ago. The truck hit my toad square on the rear and destroyed the bumper. The force caused my hitch to bend slightly down. I got a bottle jack and managed to get it back to level. No broken welds or anything like that. If I had had the wrong hitch orientation it would have been much worse.

TravelWheels · 10-20-2021, 08:18 AM

Nice rig. We have a Coachmen Chapparal fifth wheel and found out after buying it that it’s owned by Forest River. So you may have to look for the forums for whoever owns the company. We are not fully retired yet but looking forward to a lot more camping when we do.
We are also trying to find an electrician that knows what he is doing to install a 50 amp for us. So we appreciate the info we are finding here to be able to determine if they know what they are supposed to be doing. Especially since we don’t!