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Old 10-08-2020, 05:03 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Jlo11111 View Post
I'm fully self contained, no generator, don't need sun but have a few panels anyway, 12v fridge, can last for 4 - 7 days without moving.
What type of fridge?, most of the small dc fridges I have seen draw about 40-60 amp hours a day, depending on ambient temp and other factors. So if you can run your fridge for 5 days, you will be using about 300 amp hours, this discounts any light, tv or other 12 volt usage. For lead acid batteries that would be 600 amp hours with 300 usable [50%] Don't think many Class C's and even smaller Class A's come with 600 amp hours of batteries, My sprinter only comes with 90 a/h useable capacity, so I only run fridge for a day and 1/2 even if I didn't use any other 12 volt loads.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Unique-6...0L-W/306705246
This one is very efficient but still draws 40 amp hours per day.
As far as I know propane solenoid shut off valves have not been required for many years.
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Old 10-11-2020, 10:23 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Phil G. View Post
What is a modified propane valve that can cut down on a propane refrigerator's hold-open-solenoid battery draw?
This guy used to sell them. If you contact him ask for the "Don Pascual discount": https://sprinter-source.com/forums/i...members/36635/
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Old 10-12-2020, 12:01 AM   #31
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In our ExpeditionVehicle, we use a SnoMaster 61-liter two-compartment fridge.
We can set each compartment to fridge, fridge / freezer, or both to freezer.

A top-door, we chose this model because of its extreme efficiency.
On 12-volt from our six 105ah AGMs, it operates at least a week.
On sunny days, our six 305- Watt photovoltaic panels keep the bank full... extending our fridge duration.

Your situation sounds fine for your use.
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Old 10-12-2020, 05:15 PM   #32
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In our ExpeditionVehicle, we use a SnoMaster 61-liter two-compartment fridge

Sounds like then he is only missing:
- SnoMaster 61-liter fridge
- Expedition Vehicle
- 4 of the 6 lead/acids
- all the charging equipment to go with the setup
- extra fuel needed to power the larger frame and vehicle
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Old 10-12-2020, 05:39 PM   #33
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190 watts may take care of you phantom load during the day on a cloudless day in summer. A 12v/110v fridges most likely has a built in inverter to change 12v to 120v and there is a loss of power in the process. Bottom line is you will need more solar to keep the necessary battery bank above 50% state of charge during the night. Installing a amps out meter first, will show you how big of solar system is required. I started with 150 watts of solar and found I needed a lot more and I had an lp fridge.
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Old 10-16-2020, 09:44 AM   #34
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12volt refrig

In my exxperience using both propane and electric I have found the electric to be much more reliable and safer. I replaced the norcold double door with an electric. When we removed the norcold 1200 from its hole there was a singe area in the left upper corner above the burner.
Iíve never had a good experience with gas absorption fridg. They take forever to get cold and all Iíve had will not keep ice cream hard.
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Old 10-16-2020, 10:57 AM   #35
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I have found the electric to be much more reliable
It depends on how you define reliable. Some old gas powered refrigerators in the pre-power-line days of the 30's and 40's ran for half a century or longer and were tossed out only because of failing door hinges, rust or broken down and no longer mfg'ed door seals (something to be said about no moving parts). The bottom line is if you have the power to run an all-electric fridge and some left over for lamps and entertainment devices, then by all means enjoy your big, powerful and fast temperature recovery refrigerator. However if you are living mostly off grid and don't have a full home roof spanned with solar mounted overhead and don't have a basement full of batteries down below, then a propane refrigerator may be a much better fit for you.

It's no doubt that electric performs better (while many of us might actually fare better without hard ice cream) - the downside is the elephant in the room which is that constant energy need and drain. So if you aren't attached to some power pole somewhere, and you don't have the full roof of solar or the basement of batteries then you are going to have to "pay the fiddler" somehow when looking for energy to power your luxury appliance. Otherwise if you can't constantly re-supply the sizable energy needed for the refrigerator via a moderate size propane tank, this means you will probably just be consuming liquid petroleum (engine/genset charging) instead of gas when you discover your solar and existing battery is not enough to keep up with both your daily energy needs and with the new refrigerator electric load added.
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Old 10-18-2020, 06:14 PM   #36
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It depends on how you define reliable. Some old gas powered refrigerators in the pre-power-line days of the 30's and 40's ran for half a century or longer and were tossed out only because of failing door hinges, rust or broken down and no longer mfg'ed door seals (something to be said about no moving parts).
I agree with your post, but would note that just about nothing in the appliance department has the life of something from 20 years ago. Maybe propane refrigerators are the exception (I hope so).

I sort of wish there were a 12/120 volt/propane option, but it doesn't sound like there is. That would allow you the choice to suit the occasion, and also allow people to completely turn off their propane when towing (something that bothers some people).
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Old 10-18-2020, 06:38 PM   #37
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I agree with your post, but would note that just about nothing in the appliance department has the life of something from 20 years ago. Maybe propane refrigerators are the exception (I hope so).

I sort of wish there were a 12/120 volt/propane option, but it doesn't sound like there is. That would allow you the choice to suit the occasion, and also allow people to completely turn off their propane when towing (something that bothers some people).
They do make 12/120 volt/propane refrigerators. Trouble is the 12 and 120 volt heaters require about the same power to run the heating elements, which is a lot higher amperage required than what a compressor fridge would need. Many coaches can use the 120/12 volt option when travelling because the alternator will charge the batteries and allow them to run off the inverter or directly off the batteries. Of course when dry camping, the high draw will normally cause you to switch to propane operation. In my sprinter van, I run the 120 volt/propane fridge off the 120 volt inverter except when dry camping. Many believe the 12 volt electric element in an absorption fridge are not as efficient as the 120 volt elements.
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