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nlsjma · 04-10-2021, 06:37 AM

I’m a relatively new owner of a 2010 Damon Daybreak. I have two electrical issues. Maybe related?

We have had three power adapters fail when plugged in to 110v receptacles. And my wife has had two curling irons overheat (I guess). And we’ve lost one coffee pot. All on the same gfi circuit I think. But gfi never trips. I have a surge protector at the power pedestal.

Also twice we’ve had the 12v lights dim when on shore power. Happens after being camped (on shore power) for a couple of days. I assume that’s the converter/charger.

Could this be related?

Old-Biscuit · 04-10-2021, 06:58 AM

Loose Neutral in your RV Main AC Panel or Transfer Switch (if you have a generator)

SKP Kirk · 04-10-2021, 08:47 AM

The usual cause of power cord adapters failing is due to over heating from drawing more current than the adapter is capable of handling, or due to defective or damaged pins in either the adaptor or the outlet that it is connected to. If you were connected to the same outlet for all 3 adaptor failures, then it is time to replace that outlet as it is damaged inside where you can't see it.

The only way that I can see your appliances being damaged by your shore power supply would be if that supply is more than the 120V, plus or minus 10% (108V to 132V) that is acceptable for appliances. There is no way that my 40 years of electric service work could see that happening other than improper power supply. I am wondering if your problems for both of these were when connected to the same outlet? If that is the case, I would bet that you are putting more than 120V to your RV.

Your lights operate from 12V direct current that is supplied by your batteries or from the converter. When they suddenly dim it is nearly always due to a drop in the voltage supply. A 12V battery is not truly 12V but actually ranges from about 13.6V when fully charged to around 10.5V when discharged. What the dimming lights means depends to some degree on what you have and the condition of things. It could be caused by a problem with your converter, but it could also be due to defective batteries or discharging batteries. To know for sure what is happening one would need to take come readings with a good volt/ohm meter.

If you do not own a quality volt/ohm meter, it is time to get one and learn how to use it as it is needed for both of your problems.

twinboat · 04-10-2021, 09:26 AM

Do you have an inverter in that rig ?

A MSW inverter can burn out sensitive electronic controls.

It wouldn't happen on shore power but if the inverter is left on while unplugged, proof, goes the device.

nlsjma · 04-11-2021, 04:30 AM

All of the adapter failures may have been plugged into the same receptacle. I will definitely replace the one. I’ve been told that some RV manufacturers use inferior receptacles that can arc and cause this issue. Thanks for your reply. Helps a lot.

SKP Kirk · 04-11-2021, 07:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nlsjma

I’ve been told that some RV manufacturers use inferior receptacles that can arc and cause this issue.

If you mean the plugs on the end of your shore power cord, there is probably some truth to that but with a used RV it is very likely that the plug has been used in some defective outlets which can cause problems with a plug in good condition. It is quite normal to need to replace the RV's power plug from time to time and with yours being 11 years old that could be the case. If you examine the plug, look for discoloring of the pins or any signs of melting around the base of each pin which indicates that they have overheated. If that is the case you should replace that plug as it will continue to get worse.

Persistent · 04-11-2021, 10:38 AM

"We have had three power adapters fail when plugged in to 110v receptacles. And my wife has had two curling irons overheat (I guess). And we’ve lost one coffee pot. All on the same gfi circuit I think. But gfi never trips. I have a surge protector at the power pedestal."

I assume the adapters are small charging adapters for things like cell phone or computer. Curling irons and coffee pots can have the same problems if they have electronic control circuits.

As posted above, certain types of inverters can cause problems with electronic devices. Are you using an inverter to power the failed devices?.

GFI is not the issue. Modified Sine Wave inverters have been known to cause this problem.

"Also twice we’ve had the 12v lights dim when on shore power. Happens after being camped (on shore power) for a couple of days. I assume that’s the converter/charger.

Could this be related?"

Every RV make and model is wired differently (have different energy management systems). Some RV's have an inverter/charger/converter. It charges the batteries. It provides 12 volts when plugged into shore power. It provides 120 volt power when shore power is not connected.

Fluctuating lights are most likely due to changing actual voltage in the 12 volt system. Converter/chargers may automatically change voltage depending on programming, or due to malfunction.

It is not likely to be related to the destruction of 120 volt electronic equipment.

nlsjma · 04-20-2021, 11:05 AM

I would like to take this in a slightly different direction. I have had an RV Tech check the system. He told me that I am probably using too many things at the same time. I called and talked to the manager at a local RV service center. He told me the same thing.

Guess it's possible. We often have the coffee pot plugged in, two laptops, adapter for a hot spot, and adapters for cell phones. I've never checked to see what's plugged in at any particular time. But I've never tripped a circuit breaker or blown a fuse.

I know some (maybe most) coaches with 50 amp circuits split it between the left and right side of the coach. Mine is split front to back so most things are plugged into the same circuit. (The things you learn after you own one!)

Question is whether this is a common problem that others experience? I suppose I may have to start counting amps. Anyone else have these issues?

HarryStone · 04-20-2021, 12:33 PM

You have either a 15 or a 20 amp circuit for your receptacles. Your coffee pot pulls ~12.5 amps. I would think you'd pop the CB before damaging anything. I'd go the direction that Old Biscuit suggested first.

cavie · 04-20-2021, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nlsjma

I would like to take this in a slightly different direction. I have had an RV Tech check the system. He told me that I am probably using too many things at the same time. I called and talked to the manager at a local RV service center. He told me the same thing.

Guess it's possible. We often have the coffee pot plugged in, two laptops, adapter for a hot spot, and adapters for cell phones. I've never checked to see what's plugged in at any particular time. But I've never tripped a circuit breaker or blown a fuse.

I know some (maybe most) coaches with 50 amp circuits split it between the left and right side of the coach. Mine is split front to back so most things are plugged into the same circuit. (The things you learn after you own one!)

Question is whether this is a common problem that others experience? I suppose I may have to start counting amps. Anyone else have these issues?

Laptops, cell phones, hotspots, and things like that are not the problem. They are very minimal loads. The problem comes with things like A/C, WH, Blow dryers, coffee pots, Insta pots, and the things that you plug into the outlets. Electric Heaters are the worst. RV's are not wired down each side of the coach. It is random.

Persistent · 04-21-2021, 07:34 AM

All good advice above.

Dimming lights can be caused by too many 120 volt devices. Different RV systems behave differently. It depends on energy management system behavior. Failure of laptop adapters is not likely.

Dimming lights can also be caused by poor neutral connection in a 50 amp 240 volt system.

When neutral has high resistance or intermittent connection, one leg of the 240 system has high voltage. The other leg has low voltage. In the case of sustained complete loss of neutral, 240 volts can be applied to a 120 volt circuit. This causes catastrophic failure of appliances.

Too many 120 volt devices includes thing listed above, but also electric water heaters which may be less obvious.

We are back to previous possibilities.
Poor neutral connection
MSW inverter

You have not posted make and model of your inverter yet.

nlsjma · 05-09-2021, 03:12 PM

I’m traveling again and still having electrical issues. What I just discovered is counterintuitive. I have a laptop computer. When I plug it in, the 12 V lights get brighter. Yes brighter. I have tried it multiple times. I contacted the manufacturer of my converter/charger and they said that the converter could not affect the 120 V system. Based upon what I am seeing today, I don’t believe that. Has anyone had this type of experience. This is driving me crazy. Thanks in advance for any ideas.

cavie · 05-10-2021, 03:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nlsjma

I’m traveling again and still having electrical issues. What I just discovered is counterintuitive. I have a laptop computer. When I plug it in, the 12 V lights get brighter. Yes brighter. I have tried it multiple times. I contacted the manufacturer of my converter/charger and they said that the converter could not affect the 120 V system. Based upon what I am seeing today, I don’t believe that. Has anyone had this type of experience. This is driving me crazy. Thanks in advance for any ideas.

Believe it. you have a neutral problem. Call an electrician. He does not need to be an RV Tech.

Persistent · 05-10-2021, 07:33 AM

X2 what Cavie said.

Faulty neutrals have been know to destroy electrical appliances including expensive energy management systems and computers. It may start out small and get more serious or it may happen suddenly and kill lots of things fast.

High resistance due to contact wear or corrosion causes high voltage on one leg of a 50 amp service and low on the other. Turning on an addition appliance (plugging in a laptop) can cause high and low to reverse.

It is possible to get 240 volt on a 120 volt circuit with some combination of appliances operating and a failed neutral.