50amp to 30amp concern

[alb2tpa]

Was just informed by a new to me campground owner that some seasonal campers with a 50amp camper were having "power problems when using a 30 amp adapter plug". He went on to say that others on the same site with no 50 amp camper did not have problems.

Has anyone ever heard of this, or experienced anything like this?

It has turned into a major concern for me as my on order 30 amp camper was going to be forced optioned into 50 amp wiring do to shortage of 30 amp parts.

[happy2rv]

More information please. "Power problems" could be interpreted any number of ways. Obviously you're not going to get 100A out of a 30A plug, so if you plug a 50A RV into a 30A outlet through an adapter, you're not going to be able to run everything that you could on 50A. If you have an "all electric" coach, you would have to be conservative in what you run.



To be clear, its been covered many times before, 50A service is 2x50A @ 110V (50A @220V) where 30A service is 1 x 30A 110V. When you use a 50A to 30A adapter, it ties both 50A RV circuits to the single 30A 110V circuit. If your coach has something installed that uses 220V, which is rare and almost never done from the factory, you would have problems. For the VAST majority of factory configured RVs they will run without any issue on a 50A-30A adapter. The majority of 50A RVs have one or two circuits, usually the second AC and possibly the water heater or some other high draw appliance, on the second 50A leg. Using the adapter, you could run one AC or the other, but probably not both.

[Skip426]

People using 50/30 amp shore power adaptors often forget they are operating on 30% power , because their 50 amp RV is actually wired for two 120 volt legs with 50 amps each = 100 amps .
Without details of the " problems " at the park; you'd be guessing if you might have problems yourself.
I've operated my 50Amp coach in a 30 amp site for 5 months straight without issue , yes you have to be careful with power use , but it's doable.

EDIT: I see happy2rv posted while I was typing , sorry about the duplication.

[KanzKran]

Originally Posted by alb2tpa

It has turned into a major concern for me as my on order 30 amp camper was going to be forced optioned into 50 amp wiring do to shortage of 30 amp parts.

The ‘power problems’ those other people were experiencing were likely due to those 50A RV’s actually requiring more power than a 30A connection can give. Your new unit is, if I’m understanding you correctly, intended for 30A service, but they’re giving you a 50A connection for reasons other than the needs of the electrical loads.

So you’d have 12,000 watts available when the unit is designed for 3600 watts. That’s not going to result in power problems for you, and in fact, may alleviate potential power problems. I can overload my 30A van, which is limited to only 3000W by the inverter/charger, pretty easily if I’m not cognizant of the loads. Like electric heat/water instead of propane, two-burner induction cooktop, and the microwave, all at the same time. Found that out the hard way in the middle of the night, when I figured out I had popped the pass-through breaker on the inverter and was running on battery power for heat all (well, most of the) night - ‘til the battery drained too low and shut itself off. Brrrrrr.

The downside of a 50A service is the cord - it’s got heavier conductors in it compared to a 30A cord, and there’s one more conductor in there. It’s a bit of a garden hose, but heavier. Check them out in an RV store to compare.

You didn’t say what you’re getting. Does it have two A/C units? Induction cooktop? Any electric heat, like baseboard or an electric fireplace? I’m sure it’s got a microwave oven (there’s half the capacity of a 30A right there). Electric water heater? With 30A, you’d have to manage those loads, or there’s automatic load management. With 50A, it’s rather doubtful any load management is needed, unless you’re plugged into a 30A receptacle with a dog bone adapter.

Oh, and you’d also experience less voltage drop issues with the heavier conductors in the 50A service, and even less so if they split the loads to both hot legs.

Aside from the heavy shore cord, there’s really no downside.

[cavie]

If you are getting a 50 amp service in a normal 30 amp RV with no extra cost then you have the right to say Thank you very much covid!

50 amps is 120/240 volts. 30 amps is 120 volts. You can use 50 amps on both legs. If one leg goes over 50 amps the main breaker will trip and you will have no volts on either leg.

I am very surprised that they are doing this at no cost. You will need to buy a 30/50 doge bone as some sites do not have 50 amps services. Then you will need to learn "Energy Management because you will be getting the same 30 amps on both legs. Total amp usage can not exceed 30 amps.

[egwilly]

I use a 50-30 dogbone many times with no issue. Even works fine with the Progressive EMS connected. Can't run both ac's and microwave at the same time is the only issue.

Have the campground manangement define "power problems". Without details we cannot even guess what is a good answer. Some of them prevent use of them for some odd reason.

[NITEHAWK]

Want to have some real "fun"?
Try coiling up a 35' 50 Amp RV cord when the thing has been laying out in 20* temps overnight!!
You might be further ahead trying to wrestle a 30' anaconda that is mad.

[egwilly]

Originally Posted by NITEHAWK

Want to have some real "fun"?
Try coiling up a 35' 50 Amp RV cord when the thing has been laying out in 20* temps overnight!!
You might be further ahead trying to wrestle a 30' anaconda that is mad.

Funny. I bought a large ice/beer bucket and feed/wind the 50amp anaconda into it. Works great especially since I hardley ever need the entire 35 feet.

[alb2tpa]

Left a message for the owner to explain what problems were encountered. Sounds like some campers were using too many power draws at the same time based on the replies here.

Also, a forced option is not a freebie as explained to me. The manufacturer changes things often lately due to parts shortages to keep the line moving. Might have to take the 50A upcharge to make sure the trailer gets built in a somewhat timely fashion.

I do have a dog bone from my last 50A camper. Sounds like a new surge guard type power protector is needed for this campground either way.

[happy2rv]

Originally Posted by NITEHAWK

Want to have some real "fun"?
Try coiling up a 35' 50 Amp RV cord when the thing has been laying out in 20* temps overnight!!
You might be further ahead trying to wrestle a 30' anaconda that is mad.

I've never had a problem coiling my 50A cord. I can't say I've tried it many times at 20°, but I've done it many times around freezing. Assuming your cord isn't hard wired to the trailer, you could keep both 30A and 50A cords and use whichever is needed. You probably won't need 50A in the winter unless you are running multiple electric heaters (which we often do to preserve our propane).



Now for some REAL fun, try cooling a 35'+ coach on a 90°+ day with only one air conditioner. I will take 50A with both A/Cs running in the summer and the option of multiple electric heaters in the winter any day.

Originally Posted by alb2tpa

Left a message for the owner to explain what problems were encountered. Sounds like some campers were using too many power draws at the same time based on the replies here.

Also, a forced option is not a freebie as explained to me. The manufacturer changes things often lately due to parts shortages to keep the line moving. Might have to take the 50A upcharge to make sure the trailer gets built in a somewhat timely fashion.

I do have a dog bone from my last 50A camper. Sounds like a new surge guard type power protector is needed for this campground either way.

It's unfortunate that the "option" is being forced on you, but as noted above, I would (did) choose 50A service even if it cost a little more. You don't mention what trailer you are getting. For any trailer with a separate bedroom, I would want two air conditioners and the option to use them simultaneously. Ideally while still heating water using the electric heating element and microwaving my dinner...


I personally don't see a downside to 50A service. As noted if, like most current models, your trailer has a dis-connectable service cord you can adapt it down to a 30A at the trailer inlet and use a 30A cord when you don't need 50A.

[DutchmenSport]

If you are a 30 amp camper, you are only going to use at a max, 30 amps. It doesn't matter if you are plugged into a 50 amp plug with step down to 30 amp. Your camper will pop the main breaker once your usage reaches 30 amp.

If you are a 50 amp camper and you use the adapter to plug into a 30 amp service, no matter what you do, you will only be able to use 30 amps, or the breaker at the power source will pop.

Probably the problem with the other 50 amp RV's at your campground is they are attempting to run more than the 30 amps available and keep popping the breaker at their power source. And, it's suppose to be this way. Nothing wrong with that.

Sounds to me, the only problem with the "power" at the campground, are those people who just simply do not understand that, 30 amps is just that... 30 amps. You have to use "power management" (turn things on and turn things off) so you do not exceed the maximum 30 amps available, if that be the RV, or the power source.

[alb2tpa]

Originally Posted by DutchmenSpor

If you are a 30 amp camper, you are only going to use at a max, 30 amps. It doesn't matter if you are plugged into a 50 amp plug with step down to 30 amp. Your camper will pop the main breaker once your usage reaches 30 amp.

If you are a 50 amp camper and you use the adapter to plug into a 30 amp service, no matter what you do, you will only be able to use 30 amps, or the breaker at the power source will pop.

Probably the problem with the other 50 amp RV's at your campground is they are attempting to run more than the 30 amps available and keep popping the breaker at their power source. And, it's suppose to be this way. Nothing wrong with that.

Sounds to me, the only problem with the "power" at the campground, are those people who just simply do not understand that, 30 amps is just that... 30 amps. You have to use "power management" (turn things on and turn things off) so you do not exceed the maximum 30 amps available, if that be the RV, or the power source.

That is what the owner finally said. " Problem" only happened to random campers, not all on the site.

[Old Scout]

….lots of confusion here--if I understand your issue correctly....the answer is: your old 30 amp camper will do just fine on a 50 amp pedestal....just get an adaptor....your camper can only draw 30 amps max so no need to upgrade anything....its a bit more complicated than that but not for your purposes…..

[Old-Biscuit]

I have a 50A 5th wheel
Have used 30A receptacle MANY times.......
Put water heater/fridge on propane and then you can operate all the other AC Stuff without issue

IF ..IF you do draw more then 30A TOTAL...CB at Power Pedestal with trip
Then you know you have tried to use too much

Simple.........